redline rule?
02-11-11, 12:41 AM
#1
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redline rule?
i was reading that you should redline your car atleast once a week to burn up carbon? is this true? if so how should i go about it. (just redline while parked?) and another question. im planning on doing a whole tune up on my t2. what are some things that i need to do? besides (oil, plugs, air filter)??? help would be appreciated
02-11-11, 12:45 AM
#2
i would check belts, pulleys, ground wires, maybe a rad flush. also about the redline rule, i do it too ( or used to lol ) but i just do it will driving, just hold the gear for longer ... one rule though, slow down once you start seeing smoke 
Edit: dont forget the wires(spark)too ... i always inspect my brakes and brake lines too after i buy a new car, just incase
Edit: dont forget the wires(spark)too ... i always inspect my brakes and brake lines too after i buy a new car, just incase
02-11-11, 01:02 AM
#8
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If you don't have one already, get a Factory Service Manual (FSM). I'm fairly sure there are maitenance schedules in there that'll go into more detail about the kinds of things to change and when. And why not red line just because? It's fun as long as you're responsible and don't beat the crap out of your car. And if there are carbon build-up benefits, nice bonus.
02-11-11, 02:25 AM
#12
Yeah redlining in neutral is extremely low load, you'll probably want the motor to be working hard. I do it every time I drive it unless it's a sub 5 minute trip.
Don't rev it as high as it will go though, nor should you rev it to 7k and hold it there for long (like over a minute, there are RARELY any circumstances you'll ever have the slightest need to have it up there for even 30 seconds, except extreme road race MAYBE and then you'd probably have a different cooling system anyway), anyway over revving for too long is a good way to overheat your motor because the water pump will cavitate.
Also, redlining does NOT burn carbon deposits, it can dislodge them which can pose a threat to your engine health. on worn out motors sometimes carbon deposits are helping keep seals in place, and if you dislodge that carbon the seals may unseat and POP you have to rebuild, though I think this is usually more an issue with water treatments as they must be able to dislodge larger carbon deposits at one time. a good defense against carbon deposits is to never let them build up to begin with.
Don't rev it as high as it will go though, nor should you rev it to 7k and hold it there for long (like over a minute, there are RARELY any circumstances you'll ever have the slightest need to have it up there for even 30 seconds, except extreme road race MAYBE and then you'd probably have a different cooling system anyway), anyway over revving for too long is a good way to overheat your motor because the water pump will cavitate.
Also, redlining does NOT burn carbon deposits, it can dislodge them which can pose a threat to your engine health. on worn out motors sometimes carbon deposits are helping keep seals in place, and if you dislodge that carbon the seals may unseat and POP you have to rebuild, though I think this is usually more an issue with water treatments as they must be able to dislodge larger carbon deposits at one time. a good defense against carbon deposits is to never let them build up to begin with.
02-11-11, 05:24 AM
#13
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The important thing is for you to drive your car over 3800rpm on a regular basis so that the secondary fuel injectors have a chance to operate. Of course, taking the engine up to redline will accomplish this. If you short-shift around town all the time in order to save gas and "take it easy on your engine", the secondary injectors and/or their air bleeds will clog up and the 5/6-port valves will tend to bind from disuse. If the injectors or air bleeds clog, when you do finally try to rapidly accelerate the car the engine will only get part of its required fuel and the engine will blow.
I recommend that you accelerate the engine under load (normal vehicle acceleration) rather than while in neutral. You don't need to race anybody, either. Accelerating in a street-legal manner is just fine.
02-11-11, 04:44 PM
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REDLINE RULE? have some love for your car..... I have never heard a carbon deposits building up that bad... thats also why i only run 93 through mine But whom am i , Whatever Makes you happy
02-11-11, 06:18 PM
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i used seafome in my car and i noticed a good difference. i herd its only safe to add it in ur gas rather then the intake hose. and when u do it u want to put more then it says. i put half a bottle in half a tank. just be sure to opean up those extra gas valves and to burn it up quick. letting it sit to long will cause it to start dissolving ur seals. iv known a few poeple that do it this way. all there cars run better and no one has noticed any bad effects. to this day.
02-11-11, 06:28 PM
#21
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+1 on Seafoam, I've used it on two of my FC's, it helps.
02-11-11, 08:38 PM
#23
MECP Certified Installer
The car just needs to be put under load, at a high rpm. Redlining the car is unnecessary. You need to get combustion temps high enough to either melt or burn off some of the carbon buildup. Pull your leading plugs and see what they look like. That will give you a good indicator of what the rotors look like too.
Don't granny the car, drive it like it is a sports car sometimes. The redline rule is not a rule but an 'ole wives tale. Gasoline contains TONS of cleaning agents, you don't need to add stuff to your gas tank. You don't need to run seafoam (kerosene mostly) through it. High temperature combustion, which occurs under load and high rpm (4-6k) will take care of the job for you.
For example, I'll drive 45mph in the city in 3rd gear for a bit to burn the **** off, plus get my secondaries pumping fuel. My secondaries are brand new so I don't want them to crud up.
Don't granny the car, drive it like it is a sports car sometimes. The redline rule is not a rule but an 'ole wives tale. Gasoline contains TONS of cleaning agents, you don't need to add stuff to your gas tank. You don't need to run seafoam (kerosene mostly) through it. High temperature combustion, which occurs under load and high rpm (4-6k) will take care of the job for you.
For example, I'll drive 45mph in the city in 3rd gear for a bit to burn the **** off, plus get my secondaries pumping fuel. My secondaries are brand new so I don't want them to crud up.
02-11-11, 09:52 PM
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^ Myth.
Most aircraft engines are designed to operate around max torque rpm or max hp rpm, depending on the application. The majority of aircraft rotary engines seem to operate around 4500-6500rpm, although there are many variations due to the fact that most of the automotive type engines are installed in experimental aircraft.
Most aircraft engines are designed to operate around max torque rpm or max hp rpm, depending on the application. The majority of aircraft rotary engines seem to operate around 4500-6500rpm, although there are many variations due to the fact that most of the automotive type engines are installed in experimental aircraft.