I have tracked down smoke comgin from my engine bay to the hotside of the tutbo.

It isn't coming from the oil return hose. It is seeping through the seems of the hotside where it connects to the center section.

Any thoughts? Maybe a bad seal on it?or installed incorrectly?

My oil return hose is 10an hose and I made it myself and know it doesn't have a restriction in it.

 

Prob that seal....does you bov vent to atm? if so is there oil all over your engine bay or at least inside the bov?

 

it's on the hotside. Not compressor side.

It smokes but I can't conclude if it's due to that or too much premix.

Yes I have open atmo BOV and I removed the intake piping 15 minutes ago and it was fine.

 

Are you sure it isn't just spilled oil/coolant, that hasn't et burned off? It can take hours to burn stuff off the center section, which stays relatively cool compared to the exhaust housing itself. I have never heard of oil coming from the exhaust housing/centersection seam...

 

it could if the bearing housing itself is junk.

 

I know it's not spilled oil. There is a clear trail of it coming fom the seam.

It's a rebuilt turbo so everything is spotless except this trail of oil.

I used a mirror and flash light to check the top and bottom feed line and they were spotless around them.

 

Oh yeah. I gave the turbo rebuilders 2 S5 turbos to use so they can use on piece if the other if one is shot.

 

OK say this leak is the seal on the hotside(behind exhaust wheel).

Will this do damage to my turbo/car?

I will be forced to ride a bicycle 20 miles a dayto work if this car isn't running by monday.

 

I'd say other than the mess it'll create, it shouldnt hurt anything. If it leaks a lot of oil, I wouldnt drive it far, for fear of harm to the engine and turbo.

 

well I live 32 miles from work and I'm hous sitting 8-10 miles from work so I can't exactly drive out unless I'm certain it isn't ruining anything.

BTW Kevin.
My car has had about 4 hours of Idling time under it's belt and 30 seconds of driving in my culde sac.

It still does not want to turn over by starter. It keeps flooding. 10/10 times.

Is this still just a fresh enigne prob? It's got cleaned and tested injectors in it and clean plugs.

maybe it just needs some more idle/drive to my friend house in the neighborhood time?

 

Yup, s4's flood like no other much of the time. Use a fuel cutoff switch, or an rtek ecu. Learn how to use whichever method you employ, and you'll not have any real issues.

IF you flood the engine really bad a few times, consider changing plugs, as the stockers foul pretty easily, which just compounds the problem.

 

yeah i have a spare set which i bought due to this.

i have just enough reach to get the efi plug out without stepping outside the car a whole lot so I just do that method. Maybe I'll do a cut switxh at the same time I pinstall the efan.

I am just trying to get it running constantly first then I'll work on misc stuff

 

uhhhh...

reach under the dash and unplug the fuelpump relay fool!

a switch will take you all of 3 minutes to wire up. jeez...you can take all that time to do your engine bay setup clean like you did, and can't run 2 friggen wires for driveability's sake

 

lol well it runs as is and I really don't feel like modding anything until it is fully set. Then I'll start messing with that stuff. That's why I've opted to use the stock fan and shroud instead of slapping the permacool in.

I think I fixed my alternator plug problem but can't test it until tomorrow.

Anyways back on topic.
When it idles it put out some smoke. Not a whole lot but if you put a light on the turbo you can see puffs.
When reving or just increasing throttle you will see a pretty good puff.

It would be pretty funny for me to run this thing NA for a week or two using PVC ducting to make the afm connect
(intercooler sticking out of hacked NA hood) I don't want to do that though. Too much added work.

 

Oh yeah and what boos tshould I be seeing if I rev it at idle? I'm new to turbo's so I don't know too much. Isn't it supposed to be like nothing since there's no load?

I have a cold air box and filter with S5 TID. Then Racing beat 2.5 DP to 2.5 racing beat presilencer to Corksport 3inch catback

 

ok I took it off. Here are some pics.




You can see the discoloration a bit from burning oil.

The top oil inlet was dry around it until I pulled the turbo off and oil spilled down.

 

OK well I just pulled the hotside off and holy **** was it oily! So it's a bad seal.

here are some pics. You can see how the first pic glistens w/ oil

 

I'll call my turbo guys this week and find out what their going to do.

This turbo has only run for 3-4 hours max and never went into boost.

Also one of the hotside bolts was on finger tight! I didn't even have to wrench it off! hmm me pissed

 

Who did your rebuild? I just had mine rebuilt by turbo auto and it smokes and smells terrible It's only run for 15 mins so far so I know it's just burning off the assembly lube and whatever oil was on my hands.

 

A local company did mine.

I talked with the guy and he said that either the turbo did a catastrophic failure and the turbines are hitting the walls or there was too muich oil pressure or the oil return was blocked.


Now my oil return is custom.
Here is a pic of it.


It's 10an sizing so it is not too SMALL. It is the same ID as the stock unit.

I can only conclude that the draining system has to be a seriously open drain.

That line is level so could this be the problem? Maybe it has to have a constant decline?

 

but the stock system is almost exactly the same as this one just hardlines all the way.

 

To attempt to rule out the pre-mix theory how much are you adding per gallon of fuel? Is the stock MOP still on there?


Santiago

 

the premix IS ruled out for this situation. Just look at the hotside pic above. You can see the oil on it.

That is after I wiped a lot off too!

Right now I'm searching the web for a AN fitting which would take place of that 90` elbow. Maybe a 45 which also adapts to the 1/2 threading so there will be slight elevation throughout the hose.

 

This part RUS-660970 seems to be a semi good solution if it is the oil return backing up.

1/2 npt 45degree to 10an piping.
then I'll just need a 10an end hose adapter

 

or may be this 90degree one
RUS-660880