Rebuilt but Smokes badly
11-25-11, 09:52 PM
#1
1990 T2
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Rebuilt but Smokes badly
I did a full rebuild on my 1990 RX7 T2 about 200 miles ago. I know its not broken in yet but I've rebuilt 4 others and I don't recall any of them smoking this bad.
Check out theses vids. After about 15 minutes the smoke mostly disappears but it never totally disappears.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjqp3..._order&list=UL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFDPL..._order&list=UL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scCAP..._order&list=UL
Check out theses vids. After about 15 minutes the smoke mostly disappears but it never totally disappears.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjqp3..._order&list=UL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFDPL..._order&list=UL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scCAP..._order&list=UL
11-25-11, 11:37 PM
#3
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Yep, not running right. They should run right from the get go. If you need to break in an engine you just rebuilt any more than making sure there are no leaks you need to up your game.
How is the crank case vented? Tried 4 new plugs?, ohmed out wires? Pull Cas, Pull plugs, put fronts or rears back in finger tight, turn it over then do oppisite rotor,get even wooshes front and back?
Seriously, if my micrometers tell me everything is in spec, there is no need for a break in.
On rebuilds, crappy starting, low compression that "needs to build" and poor runability for a while are not "a rotary thing" its an excuse for a poor quality build. Not sayin thats what happend here, sayin "still breaking it in" should not be a concern, it should run awesome.
How is the crank case vented? Tried 4 new plugs?, ohmed out wires? Pull Cas, Pull plugs, put fronts or rears back in finger tight, turn it over then do oppisite rotor,get even wooshes front and back?
Seriously, if my micrometers tell me everything is in spec, there is no need for a break in.
On rebuilds, crappy starting, low compression that "needs to build" and poor runability for a while are not "a rotary thing" its an excuse for a poor quality build. Not sayin thats what happend here, sayin "still breaking it in" should not be a concern, it should run awesome.
11-26-11, 12:33 AM
#4
well another thing to keep in mind is what collected in the exhaust before the motor was rebuilt, i had some cases where a good half gallon of coolant or a fair amount of oil collected in the muffler and resonator which took a good hour to cook off.
but seriously, that thing sounds like ***. i just can't tell if it's the straight piped exhaust or the engine isn't running right. either way, not good. definitely does not sound like a properly running 2 rotor engine, sounds like a single rotor dragging the *** of another dead rotor.
but seriously, that thing sounds like ***. i just can't tell if it's the straight piped exhaust or the engine isn't running right. either way, not good. definitely does not sound like a properly running 2 rotor engine, sounds like a single rotor dragging the *** of another dead rotor.
11-26-11, 08:26 AM
#5
1990 T2
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[QUOTE=GregW;10876205
How is the crank case vented? Tried 4 new plugs?, ohmed out wires? Pull Cas, Pull plugs, put fronts or rears back in finger tight, turn it over then do oppisite rotor,get even wooshes front and back?
On rebuilds, crappy starting, low compression that "needs to build" and poor runability for a while are not "a rotary thing" its an excuse for a poor quality build. [/QUOTE]
Crank case is vented from the oil fill spout through the carbon canister.
New wires. New plugs. No emissions. BAC works correctly
I have 3 crank angle sensors, tried all three.
I will recheck compression but it was over 110# after the rebuild but it does not pull like it is on one rotor. Lots of pep.
Makes 7# boost by 3000rpm without flooring it.
As far as the crappy rebuild, I don't think so. This is my 5th rebuild and I always double check everything. I used all new gaskets and seals. Essentially, the only things reused were the rotors, housings and irons.
How is the crank case vented? Tried 4 new plugs?, ohmed out wires? Pull Cas, Pull plugs, put fronts or rears back in finger tight, turn it over then do oppisite rotor,get even wooshes front and back?
On rebuilds, crappy starting, low compression that "needs to build" and poor runability for a while are not "a rotary thing" its an excuse for a poor quality build. [/QUOTE]
Crank case is vented from the oil fill spout through the carbon canister.
New wires. New plugs. No emissions. BAC works correctly
I have 3 crank angle sensors, tried all three.
I will recheck compression but it was over 110# after the rebuild but it does not pull like it is on one rotor. Lots of pep.
Makes 7# boost by 3000rpm without flooring it.
As far as the crappy rebuild, I don't think so. This is my 5th rebuild and I always double check everything. I used all new gaskets and seals. Essentially, the only things reused were the rotors, housings and irons.
11-26-11, 04:33 PM
#7
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The compression sounds good, 3 even puffs per rotor.
But, I just found out that my daughter over heated it. She says it was up in the red for "only" about 5 minutes, until she had a place to pull off the road. She stopped at a church and somebody gave her some water to fill it back up. She says she looked at it at the bottom of a long hill. When she got to the top she noticed that it was steaming and the needle was way up in the red.
I don't know why it overheated for her when the needle never went above low normal for me in the 100 miles I put on it.
But, I just found out that my daughter over heated it. She says it was up in the red for "only" about 5 minutes, until she had a place to pull off the road. She stopped at a church and somebody gave her some water to fill it back up. She says she looked at it at the bottom of a long hill. When she got to the top she noticed that it was steaming and the needle was way up in the red.
I don't know why it overheated for her when the needle never went above low normal for me in the 100 miles I put on it.
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11-26-11, 08:37 PM
#11
no, more like 5 minutes after she noticed the gauge. which was pegged for 30 mins prior to that.
c'mon, we know kids and their attention span to things like gauges, warnings lights or even warning buzzers going off around them.. most teenage girls would cook a motor just to get it home rather than walk a mile or wait 20 mins for a tow.
i know i shouldn't say this but one of the only motors i ever saw an engine get so hot that it liquified the OEM coolant seals on was owned by a girl. the OE seals start to liquify once the coolant passages reach over 300*F....
c'mon, we know kids and their attention span to things like gauges, warnings lights or even warning buzzers going off around them.. most teenage girls would cook a motor just to get it home rather than walk a mile or wait 20 mins for a tow.
i know i shouldn't say this but one of the only motors i ever saw an engine get so hot that it liquified the OEM coolant seals on was owned by a girl. the OE seals start to liquify once the coolant passages reach over 300*F....
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-26-11 at 08:41 PM.
11-26-11, 08:39 PM
#12
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no, more like 5 minutes after she noticed the gauge. which was pegged for 30 mins prior to that.
c'mon, we know kids and their attention span to things like gauges, warnings lights or even warning buzzers going off around them.. most teenage girls would cook a motor just to get it home rather than walk a mile or wait 20 mins for a tow.
c'mon, we know kids and their attention span to things like gauges, warnings lights or even warning buzzers going off around them.. most teenage girls would cook a motor just to get it home rather than walk a mile or wait 20 mins for a tow.
11-26-11, 09:23 PM
#13
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As far as the plug wires, they are not Mazda but they were not cheap. I will check them.
11-29-11, 10:06 AM
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I haven't been able to do a coolant pressure test yet. I borrowed a tester from autozone but it didn't have the correct adapter.
But, I rechecked the compression and the compression is now 60 psi on both rotors and all faces. Right after the rebuild the compression was over 90# on both rotors.
What would cause the compression to drop evenly on both rotors?
But, I rechecked the compression and the compression is now 60 psi on both rotors and all faces. Right after the rebuild the compression was over 90# on both rotors.
What would cause the compression to drop evenly on both rotors?
11-29-11, 11:12 AM
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I have the same problem with the difference that mine stops smoking after a couple of minutes. I was told to change the thermal pellet. Ordered last night from atkins. Ill post if my situation changes after the fix.
11-29-11, 02:38 PM
#21
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showpo...1&postcount=18
That should be a good idea of what you see see as far as compression at a given rpm.
That should be a good idea of what you see see as far as compression at a given rpm.
11-30-11, 10:31 AM
#23
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I found the correct adapter at a different autozone. The pressure does drop off, very slowly.
So, I drained the oil to check for water contamination and there is water in the oil.
I guess I should have checked the oil first.
I will probably need, at least, new oil control rings, maybe I'll go with the Mazda ones this time, instead of the Viton.
So, I drained the oil to check for water contamination and there is water in the oil.
I guess I should have checked the oil first.
I will probably need, at least, new oil control rings, maybe I'll go with the Mazda ones this time, instead of the Viton.
