Ljk619

iTrader: (1)

First off I'll say sorry, but I honestly couldn't find anything through the search function. Maybe I didn't look hard enough...but it is late.

Anyways I'm rebuilding my engine and so far the only thing I'm going to have done to it is new housings with intake and exhaust porting done by Mazdatrix. So basically while I have the whole thing apart is there anything else I could add on to get just enough power out of it? Things like bigger injectors? If so what cc rating should I go with? The car is going to be a "saturday night special" sort of deal so anything that might affect daily driven cars in a bad way won't matter to much. But one thing, I do want to keep the bolt on mods to a maximum while at the same time things that don't require ecu tuning and the sort. And I am on a little bit of a budget as the rebuilding is already sapping my money.

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

well theres no way you can add bigger injectors as for you will need to tune that, you dont want to stick to bolt on add a new clutch ,perhaps some light weight pullies ....anything to help you out without tuning...now how much are you spending on mazdatrix if you dont mind

Newbs

You don't need bigger injectors on an N/A anyway. The stock injectors can easily handle 200 HP which you won't reach with a Mazdatrix port. These cars run rich anyway, the last thing you want is to add bigger injectors to make it spit out gobs of unburned fuel.

micah

How much porting will the N/A injectors allow? I was hoping to get a mild-street port on my main ports.. and a more agressive porting on my secondaries... will stock injectors keep up?

/hijack

Newbs

If we are talking about an N/A, your stock injectors will be fine with any street port. Now if you get into bridge porting or a peripheral port, that's a whole different can of worms.

micah

coolio.. I will, however, be replacing the fuel pump with a TII fuel pump. I've heard that the fuel pump is more of a bottleneck than the injectors.

Ljk619

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the replies. So basically I should just try to lighten up components around the engine?

I'm spending damn near 3k at mazdatrix. Which includes things like seal and gaskets packages, lapping side and intermediate housings, one rotor, two new housings with porting, and a few other things.

micah

With two new housings, porting, lapping, a new rotor... thats actually a pretty damn good deal.

Newbs

You should also try and grab a TII oil pump. A TII pump plus a quick mod to your regulator will raise your pressure up to 100psi. A great mod to prolong engine life.

Unsupa

iTrader: (2)

may as well throw a flywheel/clutch combo on it too, quicker revs, more power to the ground... i'd throw out my sales pitch from the for sale section, but i've been thinking of keeping the setup..

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

Do you have the write up for this mod? Link please?

Newbs

Aaron always has the best write up's

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/shimoil.htm

Ljk619

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the oil pressure info Newbs. I will attempt that asap.

anewconvert

iTrader: (1)

I have an aux bridgeport large streetported engine and with the stock ECU im pretty sure im running the ragged edge of the injectors. The primaries will only run at 40-50% duty cycle with the stock ECU after the secondaries kick in. So without a standalone or larger secondaries and an SAFC anything larger than a streetport will probably push the limits of the na injectors.


As for the TII fuel pump you will run rich at idle with it unless you replace the fuel pressure regulator int he process. The TII pump runs on a reduced pressure at idle on the TII. Its the same regulator as the NA but the pump runs at a reduced preswsure to keep from flooding the engine, so you will need to either pull the regulator or add the relays to reduce the fuel pressure.

BC

arghx

iTrader: (3)

bah I run an FD fuel pump on my n/a (got it for free, so why not?) with stock FPR and it still idles around 12.5:1 on my wideband, which is normal with no ACV or cat.

You can put in the pineapple racing auxilary port sleeves. They're not very expensive. I run them, and I make pretty good power on my n/a . Also you want to get rid of the exhaust diffuser in the engine.

and get an SAFC. they are not expensive and will be able to lean you out for a few hp.

lchaidez

iTrader: (4)

dam... 3k at trix? sigh* im on the road of rebuilding my engine... and you said 3k for an na? can you list everything you've come up with for the rebuild. Parts and stuff, how does it add up to 3k?

How long is this estimated to take? When did you drop it off

micah

Read the freaking post man.

lchaidez

iTrader: (4)

i did... but its hella expensive

micah

Housings are about 500 bucks each give or take... rotors are about the same. porting is usually a couple hundred dollars.... and the full rebuild kits are usually almost 1k for a good one (including install gasket set) I'm not 100% sure about those prices.. but I'm pretty sure I was aleast in the ball park.

Have you done it cheaper? If so.. HOW?

RX7Tuner.

You want to cut the guts out of the diffuser or install a turbo sleeve, not get rid of it entirely. Your header would not line up properly and it would be incredibly loud.

Brian

lchaidez

iTrader: (4)

nope, this is my first car. I just looked at it as an expensive fix, I dont know how much it usually costs to rebuild... i was thinkin somewhere between 1200, and 2300 never thought over 3k.

Is there any other places in LA that does rebuilds for rotary? or Surrounding LA area?

micah

Well, if you do it yourself, and have no damaged parts, 1200 could do it...

vspc2nr

16k for rebuilt N/A core..............i go for that route better.


or


12k for a used TII............damn............to many choices.

micah

Uhm........ What?!

RX7Tuner.

16K sounds right for an N/A core. I must have got a good deal on mine because I got the core plus a car for $1,200...