Rebuild won't start when hot.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 4
From: Willamette Valley, OR
Rebuild won't start when hot.
You'll have to forgive me if this has been covered a million times. I am more of a first gen guy.
So heres what we got: A S5 engine with a Large streetport, Atkins solid corner seals, FD corner springs, 2 piece apex seals and springs from RX-7 World, most everything else is stock, with a few exceptions.
It will start with some hesitation when cold, but does not want to start when it gets warmed up.
What could it be?
Thanks in advance for the help. (even if its a link
)
So heres what we got: A S5 engine with a Large streetport, Atkins solid corner seals, FD corner springs, 2 piece apex seals and springs from RX-7 World, most everything else is stock, with a few exceptions.
It will start with some hesitation when cold, but does not want to start when it gets warmed up.
What could it be?
Thanks in advance for the help. (even if its a link
)
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 4
From: Willamette Valley, OR
Hey have you heard from sailor boy yet (David/SidewaysFC)?
did you reuse rotor housings? if so will take a while before you start making good compression.
also your injectors could be leaking.(not something you can tell just by looking at the fuel injector)
also your injectors could be leaking.(not something you can tell just by looking at the fuel injector)
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 4
From: Willamette Valley, OR
I don't beleive the injectors are leaking. It seems very flood happy. Especially when trying to restart it when it is hot/warmed up.
it's not unusual for a fresh rebuild to flood and have trouble starting due to low compression. although some warn against this, i unplugged the fuel pump relay to start it.
it wouldn't start on its own at all at first. by 200 mi or so, it would start on its own about 60-70% of the time, by 300 mi or so, i could start it almost always w/o unplugging the relay. if after, say, 500 miles and it still floods, then i'd worry about other issues.
it wouldn't start on its own at all at first. by 200 mi or so, it would start on its own about 60-70% of the time, by 300 mi or so, i could start it almost always w/o unplugging the relay. if after, say, 500 miles and it still floods, then i'd worry about other issues.
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Hey check and make sure your injectors are plugged in correctly, as in you dont have them conected backwards. A few tech at my dealership did that on a rx-8 he swapped a motor in for. His would run and idle fine till cold start kicked off. He would let it cool down and it would start but wouldn't idle as soon as it warmed up.
it runs great untill it gets to opp. temp then it just dies and wont start until
it is cold. it is not flooding at all. the comp. reads 80 psi on the front and
90 psi on the rear(with a piston comp tester, its all i have)...
it is cold. it is not flooding at all. the comp. reads 80 psi on the front and
90 psi on the rear(with a piston comp tester, its all i have)...
it's not unusual for a fresh rebuild to flood and have trouble starting due to low compression. although some warn against this, i unplugged the fuel pump relay to start it.
it wouldn't start on its own at all at first. by 200 mi or so, it would start on its own about 60-70% of the time, by 300 mi or so, i could start it almost always w/o unplugging the relay. if after, say, 500 miles and it still floods, then i'd worry about other issues.
it wouldn't start on its own at all at first. by 200 mi or so, it would start on its own about 60-70% of the time, by 300 mi or so, i could start it almost always w/o unplugging the relay. if after, say, 500 miles and it still floods, then i'd worry about other issues.
first off ..im still a newb at this ..so dont be so harsh on me ...if im wrong .do you have all your emissions on ??or did you remove em .? if you did ..did you remove bac ....? because my car is like that with emissions removed . i currently have 4000 miles on the new streetport from atkins rotary ...try giving it a tap of throttle ..when trying to start warm or hot ..this always help me with starting it when hot...
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Last edited by plainandsimpo; Feb 27, 2008 at 01:20 AM.
Hot start issues is alomst a sure sign of weak compression. Since it is a fresh rebuild hopefully once the engine is broken in hopefully the apex seals will seat better and improve your compression, but this depends on the exact condition of the housings and the apex seals that you use. 80/90 aren't great numbers so hopefully thoes will improve.
Install an Anti-flood switch to assist with getting the engine started while hot, and if you have a fuel controller or standalone then try to adjust your cranking settings.
Cleaning the injectors would be a good idea too... and it's cheap (check the group buy section for a place that does this).
Install an Anti-flood switch to assist with getting the engine started while hot, and if you have a fuel controller or standalone then try to adjust your cranking settings.
Cleaning the injectors would be a good idea too... and it's cheap (check the group buy section for a place that does this).
humm, from my research(newbie) 90 psi is border line for compression anything below that is rebuild time.
Please correct me if i am wrong but that could be your issue right there.
hybrid
Please correct me if i am wrong but that could be your issue right there.
hybrid
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 4
From: Willamette Valley, OR
Yes. We have decided that compression is the key issue here, However Kevin was driving the car today and the check engine light came on and it wanted to die and sputter if he gives it anything more than half throttle. Could this be a fuel issue?
its not a problem if ur runnin it hard thats what they tend to do, now if thats not tha case ur old n u only run it around town like graddad does its more than likely ur thero senseror behind the waterpump. replace reset ur computer n ur on your way amigo vato locos 4ever





