Rebuild won't start
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Rebuild won't start
While this seems to be a common problem, I'm at a loss for what is going on. I just finished rebuilding the engine in my 88TII and now we can't get it to start. Let me give a rundown of what we have checked and done to try and get the car to start. The engine cranks but wont catch. The very first time we cranked it almost sounded like it wanted to catch, but wouldnt. Then nothing. The CAS was installed be removing the cover and noting the position of the teeth before install, and then realigning to that position after stabbing. From what I have read, that should get me in the ballpark to start the car. If I'm missing something here please let me know. The ignition is definitely firing, as each plug wire gives a good, healthy spark when allowed to jump to ground. While cranking the fuel pump has voltage(~9.5V), so it has fuel. We thaught that it might be flooding(with the plugs removed and cranking there is definitely fuel spray coming out) so I followed several documented procedures including putting oil into the rotor housings. However, If I spray starter fluid into the AFM, the car will kick over, run for a bit and then die when the starter fluid burns off. Please help me out here as Im kind of at a loss for why this thing wont start. It seems I have fuel air and spark. Any help is greatly appreciated.
-Bryon
-Bryon
Last edited by BDentonFC; 02-24-05 at 09:36 PM.
#2
Lives on the Forum
Re-check for large vac leaks...
Depending on what you did with the rebuild, it may just be a compression issue. If you're flooding her, then it may be a bitch to build up enough compression to get her to sustain combustion...
Depending on what you did with the rebuild, it may just be a compression issue. If you're flooding her, then it may be a bitch to build up enough compression to get her to sustain combustion...
#3
Sharp Claws
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the CAS should actually turn slightly clockwise as you install it, try loosening the CAS clamp bolt and turning it full counterclockwise to the stop and do the unflooding procedures, try holding the accelerator all the way down to the floor while trying to start the car also.
#5
Make Money.
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I couldn't get mine to start either. We were going back and forth; crank, unflood, ATF, crank, unflood, ATF, like 5 or 6 times. We both agreed that I was getting spark and fuel, so we said what the heck and pushed it down a small hill. Needless to say, it started right up when I did the compression start. I actually had to start it like this for the first 2 weeks of driving it because it was too weak to start on it's own.
See if you can get a truck (and tow rope) owning buddy on stand-by just in case compression starting it doesn't work.
good luck dood
See if you can get a truck (and tow rope) owning buddy on stand-by just in case compression starting it doesn't work.
good luck dood
#7
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Rebuild won't start - Update!
Well, after some further testing, we determined that it is infact a fuel problem. With the plugs removed, no fuel sprays out when the engine is cranked. After following the advice of some another member(HAILERS), I back pinned pins 3C, 3E, 3F, and 3H and am only seeing 5.0V with the key on. Now I understand that Im sopposed to have 12V at the plug. If Im not seeing the full voltage, what could be the problem? However, I have 12V at the main relay with the key on, which is supposed to feed the injectors 12V. I dont know why if Ive got 12V at the relay, that I am seeing 5V at the ECU. Someone please help.
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