Rebuild starts then dies after like 3 seconds...
 

I got it started, after many times of hitting a problem, fixing it and moving on, i had it running for about 3 seconds, then it died. I have fuel, im pretty sure i have spark, although i don't know how powerful

Is it ported? I would play with the timing a bit just to get it to run for a while.

vac leak.

I would put a jumper in the fuel pump test plug in the engine compartment. That will keep the fuel pump on if the AFM is having problems.

it VERY MUCH sounds like the fuel lines are backwards. not that you're slow or anything, but you didnt mention that you checked that :)

- yes it is ported, didnt check the timing...will do that

-not a vac leak, removed rats nest, only 4 vac lines left and theyre all brand new and connected

-last time i did that the safc and evc didnt come on but when the key is on the gauges lit up automatically...i dont know why but i dont wanna do it again...i'm getting a ton of fuel anyways

-fuel lines WERE backwards, i fixed them...theyre good now

hehe :) those bastards'll get ya

AFM not connected?

AFM is connected

now as far as the timing goes....obviously i can't hit it with the timing light till i get it stable, what should i do? just mess with the crank sensor while someone cranks it over till it idles?

Check the fuel filter and make sure the injectors are clean, too.

Recently on my engine install it wouldn't start because the fuel lines were backwards thanks to the picture in the manual being wrong, then when it did start it did the same thing as yours, run for a few seconds then die no matter how much throttle I gave it, we re-stabbed the CAS and that fixed it.

fuel filter and injectors are brand new

brain fart: whats the CAS again?

Crank angle sensor

Does it run at higher RPM's?
Sometimes you just need to bump up the idle just to get it stable.
Nevermind getting the timing nailed right now - if it crank and starts, that's a very good start.


-Ted

i know when it accually ran i was so happy....just gotta keep it running now....timing....ok.....gotta check that

another odd thing happened too....before i attempted starting it, the SAFC-2 was working fine, now it's only readig about 34% throttle when i have the pedal to the floor? whats up with that?

I have a problem with my SAFC reading 100% throttle when it's only at little over half throttle... :confused:

s4 tps reads 100% when only at 1/3rd throttle. move the throttle while watching the tps and you will see why.

Ok that makes sense then... I was wondering if that would cause tuning issues, but I suppose not...

what about my SAFC problem? any ideas?

sounds like your tps isn't set right, or ya need to reset your safc

when timing it, what should I use as my starting point for the CAS? i have in dead center right now, should I advance it or retard it?

Do as the manual instructs, theres more than one dot on the shaft, but you want to align the upper dot to the matching mark.

http://home.comcast.net/~rxsevensymphonies/cas.jpg

Is this a 13BT?
If you're running the stock ECU, don't fuck with the ignition timing - set it to stock.


-Ted

i had it rebuilt so maybe the rebuilder put it in wrong....gotta check that

awesome! thanks RXSevenSymphonies thats an awesome writeup.

Whats should I do about my SAFC-2 problem? At 100% it's only reading about 39%...but before i attenpted starting it, it worked fine, worked awesome actually

Ok...so I fixed the timing...which was wayyy fucked up....and I got the SAFC to work...still no starting....when I crank it, it cranks really smooth and about every 4 or 5 rotations it kicks but not hard enough to get it to start...I think i have bad gas in it, it's got about half a tank of about six month old gas...(i know im a shit)...but shouldn't it kick over and run anyways?...i'm gonna pump that out and put some fresh 93 in there...ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS?

try using 87. fires easier than 93.

my SAFC is being stupid again!!

I'm not finding yellow and red marks....any other references i can use? how do I find "Top dead center"?

How to find TDC:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=296837

nope....not my problem......my CAS isnt getting pwer to any of the wires....could this be a problem? also it sounds like my fuel pump is constantly running and is making my injectors leak because there is a hissing sound from the fuel rail, but if i unplug the fuel pump connector, the hissing goes away.....and this is like 5 mins of the key being on....

anybody have any ideas? i wanna get this thing running again...

I can't think of anything else at the moment. The car shouldn't even start without the CAS working and i don't think the fuel pump running all the time would make the car die, and I'm not sure about the hissing noise.. is the car still starting and stalling after a few seconds or doing different stuff now? I'd go through the troubleshooting guide in the FSM and double check everything.

It just cranks and cranks now....no start at all.....it don't even want to start now....just tons of cranking and alot of fuel smell

my car has the fuel pump connected, so that its on as long as the key is on. No problem starting the car, none at all. You should try to push start the car...

Have you tried unflooding it then?

Replace spark plugs, my car didnt run i cranked and cranked and nothing and replaced plugs and bam fired right up, i think they faul out after being flooded so many times, even when they were out they got spark but i dont think it was enough once it was in the housing

ive been rotating between 3 sets of plugs

yes i have unflooded it

dude sounds like a vacuum leak to me i mean on my turboII i was so lost i couldnt figure out why the hell the car would start but then die and then after that wouldnt start well i found out that my intake gasket was put upside down so i had a massive air leak all i can say is check over the vacuum lines and see....
TwEaK

well I only have 4 vacuum lines left, because I removed the rats nest...but I'm gonna take off the intake to check for leaking injectors so I'll check my gasket as well...should I put silicone on it for reinforcement?

ok...I checked the crank sensor and the coils as per my Haynes manual:

"Measure resistance between the G1 and G2 terminals, and between the Ne1 and Ne2 terminals...resistance should be between 110 and 210 ohms"

I am reading about 75-80 ohms between these terminals

"Measure the resistance between the primary terminals of the coils...resistance should be between .2 and 1 ohm"

I am reading 0.0 ohms on all coils

I just checked my extra coils and crank sensor and I'm getting the same values...they have to be good right?

im not shure with the coils but yes if you just put the gasket on and easy for you to remove the lIM gasket just put a little of rtv around both sides of the gasket and place it back after youve dont everything wait like 20 to 30min for it to dry and youll be fine
TwEaK

Try checking for spark. If no spark-then it is plug-wires-coil-cas-or wiring harness problem. IF there is spark and fuel than it is compression problem, especially if the rebuilder used old parts with new seals, you will have low compression. If you have fuel then you are probably flooded at that point, flush the fuel out-put new spark plugs, and put some atf fluid in each housing to build compression should start at that point. Don't use old spark plugs at all your just beating a dead cat, if you are using old spark plugs go out and buy you some brand new ones. Believe me your car won't start if your plugs are fouled, I don't care how many times you clean them.

[QUOTE=WannaSeeMyWankel]now as far as the timing goes....obviously i can't hit it with the timing light till i get it stable, what should i do? just mess with the crank sensor while someone cranks it over till it idles?[/QUOTE


No, the timing is retarded during STARTING.

Pull the CAS. Align the pulley and fixed pointer. Aligh the marks on the bottom of the CAS. Look in the top of the CAS. After installing the CAS the top parts should be in the same position. If not, then rotate the body til the top parts are as you viewed them before installing the CAS.

There is no output to the CAS from the ECU. It works the other way around.

Since you've had your CAS out before, do this: pull the CAS but leave the connector attached to it. Turn the key to ON. Pull the LEAD wires just out of the LEAD coil assy, and rest them just at the wire hole on the coil. Spin the CAS. You should see a large spark at the plug wires just at the LEAD coil assy and also if you listen carefully, you should hear the injectors clicking as you turn the cas lower gear.

If that happens, then your problem is not electrical. You saw the spark, heard the injectors click and you know how to install a CAS. So reinstall it.

The car is simply flooded. Remove the fuel pump connector. Spin the engine for say ten to fifteen seconds. Spray starter fluid into the airfilter for no more than two seconds. Try to start the car. It should start for a moment. Repeat the process a couple of time. Then one more time but this time with someone to immediatley reattach the fuel pump plug just as the engine starts up.

Extremley flooded cars might require some motor oil to be put in the rotor chambers. Any way you want will do. Then do the process again.

I thought about the CAS only being an output before, but then I looked in the FSM at how it says with key on engine off you should see below 1.0v at each terminal, whats the deal behind that?

edit-oh ok so they're saying just like the o2 sensor creating its own voltage only up to 1.0v max the cas should only output 1.0v max