Anyone have an engine apart right now that can take a minute and tell me what size/type wrench it takes to tighten this up? This would be the sideways one mounted to the rear iron.
I'm trying to tighten it up without taking the engine apart, but I can't get my "problem solver" crescent wrench to get enough turn on it to get to the next flat. I'll buy the right wrench if someone'll tell me what it is.
Is it like a 19mm or a 21 or something?

 

26 mm.

The Regulator is in the rear side housing.

The Oil Control Valve (read relief valve) is in the bottom of the front cover.

The oil thermowax pellet is INSIDE the front of the eccentric shaft.

You need to read the free, online FSM.

 

First of all, thanks for the sizing info, you're awesome.

I've been through it dozens of times, have it stored locally on my hard-drive at my computer at work and the one at home, and backed up on a CD, along with all the manuals for all my cars. It tells me nice things like that the stock torque is something like 85-90 ft lbs, (not exactly, but that's from memory from reading that section 3 or 4 times). However, I couldn't find any real good useful information, like where it might tell me that it was a 26mm, or how to get a torque wrench on it after the engine is assembled.

Was it because I called it the "rear oil pressure regulator" instead of taking the chance that someone would tell me the specs for the Oil Control Valve? I did that because when I searched for this info I found a thread where they were calling both pieces oil pressure regulators, and I wanted to make sure I left no doubt which one I was talking about.

Other than that, I'm not sure what you mean? It seems like you gave me a lot of extra information that I didn't ask for. Unless you thought I was taking the oil pressure regulator off to remove the thermowax pellet, which would be a no. :P The reason why is because I've got a fresh rebuild and my oil pressure seems a little low, so I was going to check and retest the oil pressure regulator. That's the one I would need, right?

 

I think you have another thread going that addressed the oil thermowax pellet and the oil control etc. At least I thought it was you. Maybe its someone else. That thread was on the first two pages of this site. Like I say, it could have been someone else. Bye.

 

Ah. I did post on someone else's thread, but I didn't have any questions on the thermowax pellet. It was probably someone else. Once again, I appreciate your help though!

 

What you might try is, is a twelve point socket. IF you can't find a 26mm, you might try a inch and one sixteenth twelve point socket. I tried a one inch twelve point and it would not fit. Then I tried a inch and one eighth and it was loosy goosey. So if you find a inch and one sixteenth socket it might work.

Now I was trying that on a old rear housing that isn't attached to anything else. I can't swear for sure whether you'll have enough room or not with the housing a part of an assymbyled (sp) engine . I havn't removed that regulator in one long time ago and I don't remember what I used.

 

1 1/16 but slightly grind it down. Then while you're at it, wack the tip of stock ROPR and you will get 80+.

 

Yeah, I've got the right size socket (which is surprising, given that odd size!) but there's no way to get any of my ratchets in there. I'll hit up the parts houses this weekend and see if I can't lay hands on a 26mm. I'm not getting good pressure and I don't feel real confident with what torque I've got on there.

 

Its best to check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge.

Low pressure is usually a bad front cover 0'ring or a suspect oil bypass valve. That's the outfit located just inside the eccentric shaft after you remove the pulley hub. If the engine has ever been overhauled, I'd suspect the front cover 0'ring first AFTER I confirmed the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. The stock elec gauge was good when first built but these cars have been through all sorts of electrical mishaps since they were built. Mishaps destroy gauge etc.

Eccentric shaft thermostat is what Mazdatrix calls the oil bypass valve. See this page http://www.mazdatrix.com/b4.htm

 

Yeah, I just borrowed a mechanical gauge from a friend and hopefully I'll get a chance to test that out later today.

My first suspicion is that a bad sending unit damaged my stock oil pressure gauge. The first sender I put on would peg out as soon as I turned the key on, like beyond the highest marks on the gauge. I also didn't have that little capacitor thing that's supposed to protect the gauge connected. Now that I put the other sending unit on, when I turn the car on, the needle points about 15 degrees below the 0 mark, then with the car started it jumps up to about 10, and revving up to 3500 rpms yields me about a 30 on the gauge. If I can confirm the gauge is bad, I'll pick up another one and one of those peachy keen A pillar gauge clusters.