89 Convertable. Does anyone have any experience with the single adjustable rear sublink? It is an aftermarket adjustable link that replaces the fixed sublink. It seems like both rear wheel cambers are adjusted together, and not adjustable individually. Is it worthwhile?

 

Unless you're taking it to the track or are seriously lowered and can't get all the camber out, it's the best way to do it. It will likely lead to them being uneven side to side, but that's not such a big deal for the street.

 

Search. The single adjustable link is the most common approach. There are also short adjustable "dogbones" that replace the two inboard trailing-arm links.

I use the single link on the trackcar and w/ adjustable coil overs and camber settings on both sides matched within 0.1 degree.

 

"Is it worthwhile?"

Absolutley!!

 

Good info. I would suggest the single adjustable link first, it should get you close on rear camber. If you still need more adjustment, or if one side needs more than the other, then add the adjustable dogbones. Mazdatrix sells both types. Here's the link:


http://www.mazdatrix.com/h6_86-92.htm

 

Those individual adjusters are cheaper direct from AWR or Flatout Motorsports, $190 for the set.

They torque the outer bushing, which if adjusted too drastically could cause some serious binding, especially if you've got stiffer than stock bushings. Only reccomended to even out some slight variances, or to be used with spherical outer bearings.

 

I use it on my vert. I am running the Racing Beat vert springs which are a mild 1 inch drop. I had way too much camber so I installed the adjustable link to bring it back to spec. I had to adjust the link to it's shortest length to get to spec camber but now the lateral links are hitting the floorpan. I am now thinking that I will add the adjustable short links. that will allow me to back off on the main link to improve clearance between the subframe and body as well as allowing for more precise individual side to side adjustment.