Ya think to yourself, naw...... really? the grounds? But it is true. I followed the "Grounding, how to' in the Archive, and it took the little hicups out. I put all new connectors on. Speciallt the one under the UIM.
Thanks guy, noe time to start tuning.
The Wankler

 

LOL I always added an extra ground from the coolant filler neck to the block on my s4's and it eliminated the 3800rpm hesitation.

BTW You must continue to post picks on your project thread of the progress made I command you to....

 

Awesome, mine is starting a slight hesitation at 3800, nothing serious yet, but I plan on regrounding everything before anything else starts to act up. I searched in the archives, but I cant find a decent tutorial! Mind giving a link to this "grounding, how to" thread? thanks.

 

I get a stuttering at about 1500 rpm, what could this be?

 

www.rotaryressurection.com has a how to...
im waiting to see how aaron's thread will turn out...

 

same here. i cant wait.

 

its a sticky thread in the 2nd gen archive

 

Thank you! I will post some pics soon...

I still am getting hesitation at 3800, so I will add one from the coolent nexk as well. It did smooth out the idle, and in cruise mode, it is very very smooth. But, last night I noticed the wall at 3800.

 

Many years ago there was a site online (I am not sure who's it was) that had a writeup on the 3800rpm hesitation. They had two ways of fixing the problem.

1) Run an additional ground (10 gauge) from the collant filler neck (attach it to the bolt that mounts the neck to the pump housing, to the engine block (can't remember which bolt on the block). It said that this method was a crap shoot and worked on half the cars that added it.

2) Re-solder the grounds at the ecu. (sure fire way to solve the problem)

 

Ok, I'll try that at lunch! Thanks!

 

It is the grounding writeup to end all grounding writeups. I actually finished it a while ago but I still have not finished the (major) update to my site. Hopefully within a month or so but I am working very hard on the RX-7 to get it running within 30 days...

 

http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/3800.html

 

ill be looking for updates!!

today i took the ground off underneath the UIM and used my dremel with the sanding drum and cleaned the contact on the block and the contact ring.. i ALSO added a ground from the same spot on the block to where the ground for the tranny is hooked on the firewall... unable to be seen and out of the way!!
although it didnt help me any as far as running better at idle or the 3800 hesitation...
i will clean the rest when i get time though..

 

damn that 3800 rpm hesitation it is getting worse as time goes on, although the car just comes to life at 4000 rpms and pulls hard and smooth up to 6700rpms, ill will be doin the regrounding soon, ill keep you guys updated on my results.

 

In all likelyhood restoring the factory ground points would've had exactly the same effect. If extra grounds were needed, the car would've come with them. Did the car have the 3800rpm hesitation when new? No it didn't. Adding half a dozen huge cables all over the engine bay will do nothing except add more mess. It seems most people who do this prefer massively oversized and brightly coloured cables, with no effort to hide them or integrate them neatly into the engine bay. The crappy aftermarket "kits" are proof of this.

FWIW, the only regrounding I've done that's had any effect on the 3800rpm hesitation was done at the ECU, ~6" from the plugs where the ECU's four ground wires are joined into two wires. These are the wires that are grounded to the top of the engine, i.e. the main EFI ground. I replaced the factory crimps with solder connections and added two more wires, which were terminated with a ring terminal and bolted to a spot on the chassis I'd removed the paint from. This cured my 3800rpm hesitation, which implies something is wrong with those paricular ground wires on my car. This should only be done after the factory ground points have been fully restored.

 

What cured my 3800 hesitation was re-wiring the fuel pump. Really took the car to the next level. I just got done re-ground some things and cleaning some stock grounds. On my car, alot of the ground wires are corroded. From adding one to the firewall, I noticed a big difference in my headlights going up and down and sunroof. I noticed an amazing difference by replacing all of my fusible links with brand new ones. I was shocked by the difference it made on my car. The old ones had some corrosion. I am waiting for my injectors to get back from witchhunters before I try it out with the new grounds.

I shipped to them, it arrived there this past Friday, got an email saying they shipped it the next day early Saturday morning....I was def impressed with that as well.

 

You mean from the engine to the firewall? Neither the sunroof and headlight motors would have their ground path improved by doing that. Both are grounded though the body. You may have done something else to make those items work better, but it wasn't this.

 

You're really going to enjoy my writeup. It is the first one to actual explain why grounding problems occur, and the PROPER method of restoring the factory grounds and adding only under very specific circumstances...

 

I am still experiencing a wall at about 3600-3800. Only now, it is when I am in boost. If I crawl the throttle I can pass 3800. I did the rewire at the cpu, and top of the engine(new bungs). My fuek pump I also rewire per Teds site. It certainley helped with the stutter I was getting through the entire rpm band. But, the wall is still there. I thnk I m ay need my injectors cleaned. But please, feel free to add any input.

 

Did I type firewall? My bad, I meant to say to the body at the strut tower. My headlight used to not come up at all sometimes and would barely go down as well, when I added the ground to the strut tower it made a world of difference

Hey man, that could be it. I was noticing some problems still, but they were different. It felt more like an injector problem. I took mine out and saw that the grommets were busted up and a couple of pentle caps were brittle and already broken. Cant wait to get them back to see how she runs Another thing might be the possability of a boost leak?

 

I made only two grounds and my lights are brighter and such. Plus, it doesn't do that weird idiot light thing where they all stay on every few weeks until I restart.

 

Looking forward to it.

Please hurry though, the amount of bogus grounding info posted the last week is incredible...

How is a ground from the engine to the strut tower going to help the sunroof or the headlight motors? Neither of these things use the engine as a ground path. What you're claiming makes no sense.

 

Hey, you can call my claim false for all I care. How did it help? Maybe because it gave extra juice to the frame and all things attached to it. I had read on these forums about adding an extra ground to help with headlight problems.

The left headlight would barely go up and down and would get stuck, added a ground to the strut tower and bam it was gone. Like I said, I guess it just gave it a more solid current throughout the car. Dont hate, appreciate

Edit:
What ground from the engine? When did I say that??? It was a ground from the battery straight to the strut tower!

 

Then that's what you should've said. You said you added a ground wire at the firewall. What else was I going to think? I even asked you to clarify this.

If you got an improvement from adding a wire between the battery and the chassis then this proves exactly what I said before. Restoring the factory ground point from the battery (it bolts to the strut tower!) would've had exactly the same effect, wouldn't clutter up your engine bay with even more wire and wouldn't cost you a cent.

I'm not trying to pick on you, this applies to half the people in this and every other grounding thread...

 

HaHa, no problem NZ. I know your cool and I know I messed up in describing, wasnt the first time I messed up when I was trying to say a point about grounding My wording needs help, lol.

And I get you about cleaning the old grounds, but what do you do if corrosion runs through the entire wire? Just replace it correct?