I'm thinking about putting some money away each month to save up for a Racing Beat full turboback exhaust. The problem is, though, that I'm a noob.

I wan't to get an idea of the total costs involved. To do that, I need to know what other mods I will need to invest in to get the whole set up running properly. If I'm going to do this, I want to do it the right way, with as little risk of blowing stuff up as possible.

What kinds of things need to be done to make sure that there is enough fuel getting into the engine, and to prevent boost spiking? What are some common problems that occur after installation of the exhaust system and how can I avoid them?

I searched for about an hour on the forum and could not find any realy useful threads that answered my questions. If there is one that I overlooked could someone please post a link. Thank you.

 

Well, if you port the wastegate out, you should be able to just run the exhaust without boost creep, therefore needing no other mods.

If you don't port your wastegate, you'll need to add the right fuel mods (pump, injectors, SAFC, FCD, etc..) for whatever boost you'll be running. Using a boost controller can make your boost go right up to whatever you set it to, instead of slowly creeping to max boost. Remember, a boost controller can't 'control' boost, it just raises it by keeping the wastegate closed for longer.

The amount of boost creep you'll get is dependant on a lot of thing, mainly, if you have a S4, or S5. The S5 wastegates are better, but still not great. A ported wastegate will greatly decrease the chance of boost creep.

 

http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/creep.htm

^that should make boost creep easier to understand

 

Cool, thats some great info. Besides boost creep, are there any other things that I should worry about?

edit: Also what is a safe amount of boost to run on a stock turbo provided all of the correct fuel system modifications are performed?

 

Just make sure you have enough gas.....Also, if your running above fuel cut, I don't think the stock ignition maps are very good up there, your spark plugs would be firing very agressivly, and this can cause detanation. A standalone is the best way to deal with fuel/ignition, but they're not cheap.

I think the amount of boost will vary from car to car, and depend on conditions, but generally, I've heard the stock compressor is efficient up to about 12-14 psi, but I'd also be worried about heat soak on your stock TMIC once you get up to some higher boost levels, a FMIC would help also.

BTW, feel free to correct me if I said anything wrong.

 

Thanks, more good info!

I don't want to get too much above stock boost levels. I'm not realy trying to increase boost, but am more concerned with safely running a full RB turboback exhaust.

So can I assume, from what information has been provided, that once I install this exhaust system boost creep will be the only major issue? And to properly combat it porting of the wastegate is recomended?

If I do decide that I want more boost later on, the stock turbo can safely handle 10-12 psi? And I this is when I should start considering fuel system modifications as well as a boost controller?

An FCD protects against fuel cuts to prevent leaning out and detonation, correct? Is that the same as this? Also what is an SAFC?

 

ok , long story short:

buy a fuel pump (everyone likes the walbro) and a FCD and you'll be fine.

 

an FCD doesnt necessarily prevent you from leaning out. the whole point of an FCD (fuel cut defender) is to trick the ECU into not hitting fuel cut when a certain amount of boost is reached.

so lets say you're doing a 4th gear pull on the highway and you're at about 5000rpms (kids dont try this at home) your boost is creeping slightly and you hit about 9 lbs. your boost sensor sends 5v (not exactly accurate) to the ECU and the ecu says, "uhoh, thats too much boost" so the ecu cuts fuel to the rear rotor to tell you to stop.
all an FCD does is reduces that voltage coming from the boost sensor (to maybe 3v instead of 5v) so it kinda "tricks" the ecu into thinking you're running less boost than you really are.

an SAFC: is a "super air flow converter" these arent too complicated. all they do is alter the signal that your ECU sees from the airflow meter. the airflow meter is one of the things that your ECU uses to add/subtract fuel. so basically with an safc you can alter the voltage output from that airflow meter to trick your ecu into thinking more air is entering the engine, therefor it adds more fuel.

 

But a bigger pump and FCD won't prevent boost creep, just makes sure that you have enough fuel should creep occur, correct? By porting the waste gate, I can correctly control boost, keeping it at stock levels. It sounds like the safest option would be to go both ways. And later on down the road, invest in a boost controller and an SAFC if I want higher than stock boost?

 

i thought S-AFC stood for super air/fuel controller :p

 

once you get the racing beat exhaust you are no longer at stock boost levels..in higher gears you will see up to 11psi till about 5000-5500rpms and then it will go down to 5-6psi. Porting the wastegate is a great proven idea that will help LIMIT boost creep...get a very good boost controller that will warn you when you go above a preset level and this controller should also lower the boost when you go above this preset boost...if you run the RB system and a walbro you should be fine... however, if you bet a BC and select to raise the boost then you should get more fuel..like the SAFC...but then you will need to get a better clutch..bout $400 and bigger secondary injectors...and then a FMIC..see where I am going? take your time, do a lot of research and find out what your HP goal is...keep reading the forum-keep learning-and TAKE YOUR TIME

 

Im buying this exhaust this month, but I keep reading about porting the wastgete, It seems like it' a good Idea, but when I talked to racingbeat the guy said " please for the love of god dont port anything." Why would he have said that?

I was just gonna get the exhaust and an safc, I already got the fcd, I figured after a dyno tune I should be ok. Am I wrong?

 

who did you talk to?

 

I cant remember the guys name. This was like 3 months ago. He just said that he get like 2 or 3 calls a day from people saying "I read on the forum that I need to do this" and the guy said not to.

 

i don't see why you wouldnt do this...if you can't afford or if you don't want to get other mods to UP your fuel mixture to keep up with your boost then porting seems like the only other solution...that or just not buying anything at all and keeping it completely stock.

 

so wouldnt an safc and some dyno-tuning be ok?

 

Ok I am in the same situation as you (turboback exhaust, don't want more than stock boost, etc), here is the lowdown:

If you have an S5 turbo/wastegate (hotside) and a stock engine with the stock airbox, YOU DO NOT NEED TO DO ANYTHING FOR SUPPORTING MODS

Firstly, you DO NOT need an FCD because FCDs blow engines! If you don't believe me, let me ask you this: why would Mazda engineer in a preventative measure that blows up engines???
They WOULDN'T! Fuel cut does NOT blow engines, Fuel Cut Defencers (FCDs) DO (if you don't have the proper fuel mods to support boost past fuel cut).

Secondly, my car is BONE stock (except for a Koyo radiator) and with my Knightsports turboback exhaust the only kind of "cut" I feel is boost cut at 6krpm in 1st & ~5krpm in 2nd (I've taken 3rd until ~6krpm with no cuts).


Speaking directly from experience, if you plan on running stock boost levels (and can have it controlled & kept at stock levels) on a stock S5 motor that is running properly, you can bolt on a turboback exhaust with NO supporting mods needed. But if you start getting into higher boost levels & other modifications that would make your engine not stock, I would look into fuel mods for safety & peace of mind.


Assuming the car is in stock form & performing correctly/up to par (i.e. no low voltage from the fuel pump):
Stock boost = stock fuel = ok.
More than stock boost = more than stock fuel is needed
More than stock boost + stock fuel = will hit fuel cut
More than stock boost + stock fuel + FCD = blown engine
Stock boost + Walbro, SAFC, 720 injectors, FPR, etc bullshit = overkill & unneeded expenses that will do nothing for you

 

I ment to say a walbro with the other stuff too

 

"Fuel cut does NOT blow engines" i'd have to disagree. fuel cut does lead to lean conditions thus leaving the engine vulnarable to detonation. If you do not have the right fuel mods to meet the demans of your boost creep then you will also be vulnarable to detonate. This is why i say either leave it stock...or port the waste gate...or buy the proper mods. i could be wrong though :p

 

If your going over stock levels with the stock ecu dont you have to have a fcd? But thats not what Im trying to get at.

would an safc and a walbro would be good?

 

yeah...rewire the fuel pump and get a walbro...i think that should be enough.

 

Any more opinions out there? I want to get as many views as possible.

 

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/mods.html

Stuff in the upper left hand corner, specifically...

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/preliminary.htm


-Ted

 

Not trying to steal the thread but... I am looking to do the same thing. 3" RB turbo back, maybe port the wastgate, remove the air filter box. And I believe a smart move would be to get the rtek 1.5. And the question is the same, Would this be a safe setup?

 

Not trying to steal the thread but... I am looking to do the same thing. 3" RB turbo back, maybe port the wastgate, remove the air filter box. And I believe a smart move would be to get the rtek 1.5. And the question is the same, Would this be a safe setup?

http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=rtek7feat