I've searched and came up with no answers on this. title pretty much says it all. I've removed all emmissions, along with the rats nest. I kept the OMP and hooked up the splitter accordingly. every other nipple was capped off and a new gasket was used for the UIM along with new grommets for the injectors. this is not a vacuum leak issue.

my issue is that when i set the idle with throttle screw, my idle is ROCK SOLID 800rpm and great. however my TPS is waaay off ~ .65K. when i put the TPS back to spec 1k (4turns), it surges. not sure why?? i back it off some ~>95 and it idles a little high (1200rpm). if i set i back to ~.6-7k, then it idles fine and solid. tps was fine before all removals. there is no ability to adjust idle with JDM BAC so it was removed as well. any tips or pointers on this??

 

lower the front idle screw a bit. remove the rear plunger/dashpot and install a solid bolt for the throttle "hammer" to rest against while idling. you can adjust idle this way. make sure the throttle cable is nice and tight, but not too tight.

 

why not just forget the ohms bs??? Just warm the engine up fully and backprobe the green/red wire on the TPS plug, with the plug fully connected up, and adjust the tps scew til you see one volt dc on the meter. Done.

By the way, the tps isn't there to set the idle of the engine. See the FSM for setting the idle on a RX engine. Fuel section of the FSM.
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I understand that. At this point the only way to adjust idle is with the throttle screw. But arent you supposed to adjust your TPS after a TB mod?

do you find an ideal idle and adjust your tps from there? vice versa or do you have to find a happy medium?

when it is at 1k, there is no dead spots between 1k-4.5k. so if i set it to 1v i should be ok?

 

Is this an S5 J-spec UIM, TB & BAC?

To set the hard stop idle screw, the initial set jumper should be in, or just unplug the BAC during the adjustment.
This of course will change the TPS value.

I think it's the ECU's auto adjust feature that's confusing the procedure.

The S5 ECU tries to auto adjust the to the TPS value, so after setting it to 1K, disconnect the battery & step on the brake to discharge any caps and force the ECU to reset.
Then reconnect the battery, start the motor, and work the throttle a little while it warms up.

 

this is a complete J-spec motor+tranny+ECU(N374). BAC has already been removed. what is the "initial set jumper" or should i even worry since the BAC is disconnected. i also have an safc II, if that makes a difference.

never knew about the auto adjust... so i'll give your method a shot and bring back the results. thanks sureshot.

 

so i was messing around with it some more. adjusting both throttle screw and TPS. i was able to get the tps to .920K and keep a nice idle around 850. the tps wont really adjust too much afterwards. i can crank the screw about 3 times before it even gets to .970k and by that time, its hard to start and it "hunts" for an idle.

using the SAFC II as a way to adjust the tps, i noticed that when the car is warmed up and running, the tps is at ~850. when it's not running but "on" it sits at .920k. any thougts or ideas?

is .920 no good for driveability and/or dynotuning? there are no dead spots between 920-4.5k. is this something i'm just going to have to live with?

 

That's plenty close enough.
If it's within ~20% the S5 ECU will work with it.

As long as it gives a consistant value and has no spikes, you're good.

 

sweet. i'll have a BNR Stage II in a week or so and i'm taking it to be tuned afterwards. i just want to make sure that it'll be ok. thanks again.