Aesop Rock

Ok since i have an n/a i really would like some good intake for any chance of getting some power to the rear wheels, now i have accepted ram-air is $538 but is it really $300 better then Az-Tech's cold air intake kit or not?

NZConvertible

Where the hell did you get that?

vectorminds

sounds like corksports fiberglass thingy... definately not worth it... go with az-tech's or checkpoints cold air intake if you wanna buy one

Zer0 Cylinder

go Az-Tech, from my hours of searching i have come to the conclusion (that regardless of price) their setup is the best....and isnt priced bad either.....

not only that, they are the ONLY ones to give scientific readings.....not the "butt dyno"....

BDoty311

I vote for making your own that provides pretty much the same results for $50, and spend the other $200 on something else.

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

I still have yet to see how someone can make a CAI for 50 dollars. In past threads I have been heckled (sp?) about my pricing but after PM'ing them with serious talk about proving their claims that they can make the same thing I do for under 70 dollars they shut up pretty fast. Even my friend that made his from PVC/ABS pipe spent over 100 dollars on his. But I do agree that the Cork Sport intake is a crock of ****. Mine might not look bling and all like Checkpoint's powercoated model but it still functions great and I love it.


Santiago


PS- If you feel like making a DIY intake go for it. DIY is the way to go if you know what your doing and have the know-how.

BDoty311

I didnt say you could make your kit for $50, I know you spent time and effort designing and testing it. Good job. But if you semi-handy, and ok with alittle metal cutting, you could make your own CAI that performs almost as good for alot less money. It wouldn't be as pretty, it wouldn't provide as much power, and it won't cost as much.

PS= I dont think you are trying to rip anybody off.

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

Forgive me for being defensive. But I don't like it when people all of a sudden come into a thread and go "hey you suck and your ripping people off" when I really am not trying to.

Unless you count making a small(you have no idea) profice counts as a rip off.

I just wanted to get that out of the way incase anyone wants to come in here and start that arguement. I am happy with helping people with a DIY CAI.(to a certain extent) I helped a friend somewhat after several days of talking about designs and materials. I don't mind people doing it themselves or going with other companies but its when they attack me or my work that I get kinda touchy. I'm sure many a fabricator would vigorously defend their labors of love when faced with such and attack.


Santiago

NZConvertible

Oh, that thing.

Despite the maker's claims, that is not "ram air". Not even close...

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

My CAI is 180+ shipping. So it would be ~ 350 dollars more than mine.


BTW if anyone actually cares I am redesigning my CAI to better fit when installed in conjunction with a strut tower brace so stay tuned for more pictures and updates on AZtechrotary.com


Santiago

BTW- I am now taking pre-orders on the TII CAI. Test results will come late as my only test vehicle is down and out and may no longer be in the State of texas at all so I don't know if I will get any data on it.

YakATK

You can definatly make your own CAI setup for REALLY cheap if you know what your doing. I can get a Mandrel U bent pipe for like $10, get it cut and welded at any shop that does exhaust work. All you need to do is decide where you want it piped to and get the pipe made in that shape. My friend made his own CAI for like $20-$30 Canadian and it worked so well that he got frost on his filter one night after a drive on the highway. Its really easy to do, there are a couple different spots that all work really well for really cold air.

later
-Justin

PS. Those prices I said are without purchasing a filter. Obviously if you include filter cost its gonna be higher prices, but the actualy pipes to make your CAI can be done for cheap cheap cheap.

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

Can you get me a link to those bend pricings.


Santiago


PS- I guess I should say that I use 3" pipe. U-bends are usually 25 USD+

VietFC

Rx7Boi

K&N Filter - 45$
3" 90 degree PVC bend - 5$
Misc clamps, connectors - 5$
Cutting a hole where the window sprayer bottle is - 0$

total...55$

YakATK

The pipes we get are 3" Mandrel U bends from a local auto parts shop called Lordco. They carry them in stock and I am pretty sure we get em for around $10-$20 Canadian dollars. Cannot remember the exact cost as its been a while but I know its cheap.

Aesop Rock

i have the strut so i hold off untill yo find a way to improve that....thanks, corksport didn't have enough pics for me to really know what the consumers money was going to be spent on.....besides Santiago, has proof of his product

88IntegraLS

In my uneducated but mildly experienced opinion (on the subject of ram air), there is no difference between true ram air and cold air intakes at or below 60 mph. Above 60 mph, and especially above 100mph, a true ram-air intake will noticeably affect both the engine's intake manifold vacuum at wide open throttle and power.

I built a semi-true ram air intake for my FC (not "true" because I still haven't sealed the air box) and it made a noticeable improvement in power when at or above 60 mph. Small, but noticeable. Around 100mph the difference is larger, but I also have a ported intake and engine block. I wouldn't pay $600 for ram air, but I build everything myself anyway.

nerid25

^ im pretty sure he's right. Although isn't one of them supposed to be better at lower speeds?

JGard18

I don't think ram air will do anything at any speed. Our engines are fuel injected. Ram air is really only effective in a carburator setup.

It will likely be colder air, however, because it's all from outside the engine bay, but the air is only being forced into a blocked passage which is the fuel injection system.

I dunno, maybe it'll do a little bit, and I could be dead-wrong...but I've always been told that ram air does nothing for FI cars.

TII

have hks filter and works good but would like to get rid of the stock rubber intake pipe but dont want and home made garbage want any dyno proven intake

What is this Az-Tech's cold air intake and where is it avalible will i get any better gains than just the hks filter

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

www.aztechrotary.com

Also see my sig.

BigTone

There are pictures of someone making a beautiful cold air box/intake a while back. He used everything you just mentioned. I plan of making somthing just like that over the summer.

Evil Aviator

The ram air pressure rise is a function of the square of velocity, which means that the pressure isn't much at lower speeds, but it increases substantially as the speed increases. Without actually performing the equations, I would estimate that a good ram air intake would produce a small amount of boost, such as 1/100psi, as low as 20-25mph. The boost would increase to about 0.15psi at 100mph, and would be about 2/3psi by 200mph. Of course, there is a corresponding temperature rise with this boost, so the performance is not quite what it may seem. However, ram air does increase performance.

A very well designed intake isn't going to show much dyno difference from a somewhat well designed intake at the horsepower level of a typical street-driven RX-7. I understand that you don't want a piece of junk, but there isn't really much difference in commercial intake systems for street car purposes, so don't get all stressed about finding the intake that makes 1hp more than the others.

The HKS filter element isn't as good as a K&N element, and the HKS intake is not a cold air intake.

In the US, we have several marketing terms that misrepresent products because the technical term has become advertising slang. Examples:
Ram Air
Turbo
Mach
Supersonic
Synthetic (oil)
Plug N Play
Battery

My favorite so far is the Gillette Mach III Turbo shaver. It has no turbo, and it doesn't even have a powerplant, so I seriously doubt it will make it to Mach 3, lol.
http://www.mach3.com/home_f.asp

Ram air works on both carbureted and fuel injected engines. Strangely enough, the carburetor works off a venturi (restriction), so technically it has the blocked passage, not fuel injection. Also, a carburetor will blow fuel all over the place if it is not designed for forced induction.

White_FC

Oh don't worry they're not just a US problem... We certainly have products like that here aswell (or maybe we just get lots of US advertising crap imported over here... )

The Mach 3 is a mighty fine shaver though... hehe.


Oh but getting slightly back on topic i'm going to have to go borrow a digi cam and take some pics of my 'in progress' CAI...
It's a fairly different design to what most people would do..

Just have to go buy some more 3in steel pipe...

NZConvertible

Completely and utterly wrong. Ram air works on any engine in a vehicle moving fast enough. You only have to look at open-wheel and Le Mans-style racecars (nearly all of which use EFI) to see ram-air used extensively.

A short length of mandrel-bent exhaust pipe and a couple of rubber connectors will make a very effective TID, and will not look like garbage unless you make it look that way. Nothing you can buy will work any better.

The velocity pressure is calculated by multiplying the fluid's density by the square of its velocity. So air (1.2kg/m3) at 100mph (44.7m/s) gives a pressure of 1.2 x 44.7 x 44.7 = 2398Pa (~0.35psi), 200mph would give ~1.4psi and 55mph would give ~0.1psi. The are many other variables in real life applications but that gives you an idea of the scale of things. It also shows you why serious racing formulas put so much effort into it but street car owners don't.
I'm still struggling along with the older non-turbo version. Is there a how-to for putting a turbo on my shaver?