radiator sealer..
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BOOSTED Vert
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radiator sealer..
Anyone use any radiator sealer to stop a slight leak of compression into the cooling system????? I remember reading about it somewhere, that had special instructions on how to use some sealer there, but I cant find it, and I read through like 10 threads...Thank you
Martin
Martin
#2
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
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I did last summer on an NA and It's still holding.
It was the plastic tube of the brown powder type Barrs Leak.
I added half the tube, warmed it up th full hot, let it cool down to full cold, added the other half & repeated the heat cycle.
It was the plastic tube of the brown powder type Barrs Leak.
I added half the tube, warmed it up th full hot, let it cool down to full cold, added the other half & repeated the heat cycle.
#3
Go to www.rotaryresurrection.com and click on tech, and go to coolant fix.
#4
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Here's the more agressive method which might have a better chance in a turbo:
The recipe: two cans of Block Weld and some Purple Power degreaser from Pep Boys. The Block Weld is a clear liquid with copper granules blended in. The process takes *hours* but can be very worthwhile!
Step 1: Clean the check out of the cooling system - drain the radiator, fill with water and degreaser, run the motor until warm.
Step 2: Repeat 5 or 6 more times.
Step 3: Drain the radiator, fill with water only and run the motor until warm.
Step 4: Repeat 2 or 3 times. You must rinse the system with water until no degreaser is left inside, this is *very* important.
Step 5: When you are sure that the cooling system is very clean inside, refill with water plus two cans of Block Weld (no anti-freeze). Run the motor until warm (about 30 minutes). This hardens the Block Weld where the water is leaking into the motor. Do not rev the motor into high RPM during this process!
Step 6: Leave the motor off for a minimum of three hours.
Step 7: Drive for 20-30 minutes in the local area to make sure that the repair has worked. Keep the RPM down! If successful, drain a small amount of water from the radiator and add some anti-freeze. If it's still leaking water into the engine, add another bottle of Block Weld and run the engine for 20-30 minutes. Let stand for three hours again. Test drive again.
Step 8: Drive the car around like you used to... assuming that the process worked!
This process can be a real pain to perform because you have to start the motor to accomplish the warm ups during the steps. Don't forget to pull the fuse when you turn the motor over to push out the water prior to each start up. Cups and cups of water came out of my motor throughout the process! I have been driving the car pretty hard since the temporary fix and it has held up well. It now starts easily, has plenty of power, and hasn't needed any water to be added to the system since I added the Block Weld (about two months ago). It was a lot easier to do this temporary fix than to go out and buy another motor/car, especially since my other one is almost done.
If your motor is shot you've got nothing to lose.
If it works for you, thank Paul Yaw at YawPower. His crappy little shop truck has been driven pretty hard for two years after
this same kind of temporary fix.
If you follow the directions on the can of Block Weld, it will not work for this type of repair! Follow the steps listed above. Be very
aggressive in your efforts to clean the inside of the cooling system.
The recipe: two cans of Block Weld and some Purple Power degreaser from Pep Boys. The Block Weld is a clear liquid with copper granules blended in. The process takes *hours* but can be very worthwhile!
Step 1: Clean the check out of the cooling system - drain the radiator, fill with water and degreaser, run the motor until warm.
Step 2: Repeat 5 or 6 more times.
Step 3: Drain the radiator, fill with water only and run the motor until warm.
Step 4: Repeat 2 or 3 times. You must rinse the system with water until no degreaser is left inside, this is *very* important.
Step 5: When you are sure that the cooling system is very clean inside, refill with water plus two cans of Block Weld (no anti-freeze). Run the motor until warm (about 30 minutes). This hardens the Block Weld where the water is leaking into the motor. Do not rev the motor into high RPM during this process!
Step 6: Leave the motor off for a minimum of three hours.
Step 7: Drive for 20-30 minutes in the local area to make sure that the repair has worked. Keep the RPM down! If successful, drain a small amount of water from the radiator and add some anti-freeze. If it's still leaking water into the engine, add another bottle of Block Weld and run the engine for 20-30 minutes. Let stand for three hours again. Test drive again.
Step 8: Drive the car around like you used to... assuming that the process worked!
This process can be a real pain to perform because you have to start the motor to accomplish the warm ups during the steps. Don't forget to pull the fuse when you turn the motor over to push out the water prior to each start up. Cups and cups of water came out of my motor throughout the process! I have been driving the car pretty hard since the temporary fix and it has held up well. It now starts easily, has plenty of power, and hasn't needed any water to be added to the system since I added the Block Weld (about two months ago). It was a lot easier to do this temporary fix than to go out and buy another motor/car, especially since my other one is almost done.
If your motor is shot you've got nothing to lose.
If it works for you, thank Paul Yaw at YawPower. His crappy little shop truck has been driven pretty hard for two years after
this same kind of temporary fix.
If you follow the directions on the can of Block Weld, it will not work for this type of repair! Follow the steps listed above. Be very
aggressive in your efforts to clean the inside of the cooling system.
#5
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thank you, and one more question.... is this safe for turbo's???? I could just plug up the hole and remove the turbo....or atleast disconnect the water line...
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