radiator clogged ?
11-26-13, 04:20 PM
#26
sometimes a pressure test may not show immediate signs, it really depends on the type of internal failure if any in the engine. some failing coolant seals will hold pressure going into the engine but not hold compression from pushing into the cooling system. the latter will show on a pressure gauge on the engine while warming it up, assuming it is not overheating at the time.
checking all the components isn't a bad thing and someplace to start, but a lisle funnel on the engine might show more definitive results. if air keeps escaping the system while it is fully bled then that air has to be coming from somewhere.
check the thermostat or replace it with an OEM one, check the overflow tube to the catch tank to be sure it flows both ways, check the radiator visibly to see if the tubes are covered with crap indicating a partially blocked radiator and check the water pump for signs of leakage. also fix any external coolant leaks uncovered by the pressure test.
if all that doesn't do anything then i would move on to the funnel test to see if air pockets keep coming up.
simply squeezing the upper radiator hose while the engine is warming up usually will tell you what's going on as well. if the radiator hoses are nearly rock hard within 5 minutes of running a cold engine, it's done. this is the quickest and easiest test to perform, if the hose gathers pressure quickly and you still don't believe it, you're in denial. upping the cap to 16psi may alleviate it some(the OP is already using a 16psi pressure cap but it's still venting, so either the cap is faulty or the cooling system is building up extreme pressure), but if the engine still overheats there's not much more you can do for it.
checking all the components isn't a bad thing and someplace to start, but a lisle funnel on the engine might show more definitive results. if air keeps escaping the system while it is fully bled then that air has to be coming from somewhere.
check the thermostat or replace it with an OEM one, check the overflow tube to the catch tank to be sure it flows both ways, check the radiator visibly to see if the tubes are covered with crap indicating a partially blocked radiator and check the water pump for signs of leakage. also fix any external coolant leaks uncovered by the pressure test.
if all that doesn't do anything then i would move on to the funnel test to see if air pockets keep coming up.
simply squeezing the upper radiator hose while the engine is warming up usually will tell you what's going on as well. if the radiator hoses are nearly rock hard within 5 minutes of running a cold engine, it's done. this is the quickest and easiest test to perform, if the hose gathers pressure quickly and you still don't believe it, you're in denial. upping the cap to 16psi may alleviate it some(the OP is already using a 16psi pressure cap but it's still venting, so either the cap is faulty or the cooling system is building up extreme pressure), but if the engine still overheats there's not much more you can do for it.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-26-13 at 04:30 PM.
11-26-13, 04:35 PM
#27
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I havent had air in my coolant , checked for flow while running . I did have a block on my over flow line . I fixed that . My radiator lines only get hard as the temp gauge goes up . I will have my friend pressurize the system Napa doesnt loan that tool 
11-26-13, 06:07 PM
#30
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No i mean if exhaust gases (including unburnt fuel and oil and hydrocarbons) got pushed through seals into coolant passages , then the coolant would show traces of this . Visibly I mean .
11-26-13, 08:04 PM
#31
nope, hydrocarbons aren't visible unlike traces of oil from some blown headgasket symptoms, but this isn't a boinger so you'll rarely ever see oil in the coolant/coolant in the oil(the only visible sign).
you could try a hydrocarbon test but i don't know if i'd trust it, that test hardly seemed to work anyways.
you could try a hydrocarbon test but i don't know if i'd trust it, that test hardly seemed to work anyways.
11-26-13, 08:52 PM
#32
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Well Ill replace the stat pump and radiator at the same time , then pressure test . If the rebuild is necessary , well I have a complete T2 drivetrain . Im just lazy , dont want to even pull motors for a tranny swap haha
12-02-13, 07:52 PM
#33
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Rotary Evolutions . We cannot be friends . you were right she failed the pressure test . Time to throw in v8 , no I'm just kidding t2 swap
12-03-13, 12:38 AM
#34
nope, hydrocarbons aren't visible unlike traces of oil from some blown headgasket symptoms, but this isn't a boinger so you'll rarely ever see oil in the coolant/coolant in the oil(the only visible sign).
you could try a hydrocarbon test but i don't know if i'd trust it, that test hardly seemed to work anyways.
you could try a hydrocarbon test but i don't know if i'd trust it, that test hardly seemed to work anyways.
12-03-13, 01:52 PM
#35
sorry to hear it wound up being the engine.
normally i use a funnel to fill the cooling system while purging air by squeezing the upper and lower radiator hoses until all the air has stopped coming to the surface. do a few warmup cycles until you no longer have to keep topping off the coolant level and that should be fine.
in some rare occasions with aftermarket thermostats with no bleeder port you would have to warm up the engine just to the point where the thermostat opens and immediately shut the engine down and fill the remaining half of the system since the engine is one giant air pocket at that point. of course i hate aftermarket thermostats for that reason because it is too easy to overheat an engine while bleeding the system. if your car only takes 1 gallon and the engine and radiator are empty you can bet this is the case, even the stock OE system holds 2 gallons.
in some rare occasions with aftermarket thermostats with no bleeder port you would have to warm up the engine just to the point where the thermostat opens and immediately shut the engine down and fill the remaining half of the system since the engine is one giant air pocket at that point. of course i hate aftermarket thermostats for that reason because it is too easy to overheat an engine while bleeding the system. if your car only takes 1 gallon and the engine and radiator are empty you can bet this is the case, even the stock OE system holds 2 gallons.
12-03-13, 03:18 PM
#36
sorry to hear it wound up being the engine.
normally i use a funnel to fill the cooling system while purging air by squeezing the upper and lower radiator hoses until all the air has stopped coming to the surface. do a few warmup cycles until you no longer have to keep topping off the coolant level and that should be fine.
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normally i use a funnel to fill the cooling system while purging air by squeezing the upper and lower radiator hoses until all the air has stopped coming to the surface. do a few warmup cycles until you no longer have to keep topping off the coolant level and that should be fine.
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i replaced my t stat and took the car for a spirited drive nice and easy at first and kept a close eye on the temp gauge. stayed solid at the good running temp margin. however i still got add coolant buzzard. it went away after i got on the freeway (this was at night here in cali outside temp about 60f) and when i turned on the heater to full bast seemed to be less and less the buzzard would go off. so im going to assume i have a an air bubble at this point. oddly though after i drove around for about 40min i got home and let it cool down a bit. the secondary fan didn't kick in at all. i guess it wasn't hot enough for it too. also checked the overflow res. and it still was full and very cold. so im going to guess that its just a air bubble.
12-04-13, 08:43 PM
#38
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Easiest thing is to use a spill free funnel which attaches to the filler. You fill it until the car won't take anymore leave some in the funnel and the startup the car. Run it, blip the throttle here and there, and keep some in the funnel until the thermostat opens. Then gently squeeze the upper rad hose put the stopper on the funnel remove it, the put the radiator cap on. Clean and easy.
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12-04-13, 09:02 PM
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As I recall secondary fan is activated when the ac is on or a certain temp is reached at the sensor on the coolant filler neck.
