Race Bearings?
Race Bearings?
Im in the process of ressurecting my 13b now and just bought the racing beat master race kit.Whats the possibilites of my bearings being bad?should i invest in the race bearings also?
race bearings are intended for high RPM operation, meaning, long term high rpm operation. On a street driven car, you will have lower than normal oil pressure.
Also, the big oh **** factor that comes with carbon apex seals. Carbon apex seals are great when you need a perfect seal, minimal wear and beat the **** out of the engine on a race track. Here is the problem, they are for race engines that get rebuilt all the time because they fail quickly. If you are some super lucky person, you might get 10k miles out of carbon seals before you need to tear the motor apart again due to failure.
If you want to upgrade the factory bearings, just get the FD multi window bearings from mazda. I also suggest you either use the stock mazda 2 piece apex seals or drop 2k dollars on ceramic ones. The goopy, RA, others seals will take more abuse but they will also eat your rotor housings alive.
Also, the big oh **** factor that comes with carbon apex seals. Carbon apex seals are great when you need a perfect seal, minimal wear and beat the **** out of the engine on a race track. Here is the problem, they are for race engines that get rebuilt all the time because they fail quickly. If you are some super lucky person, you might get 10k miles out of carbon seals before you need to tear the motor apart again due to failure.
If you want to upgrade the factory bearings, just get the FD multi window bearings from mazda. I also suggest you either use the stock mazda 2 piece apex seals or drop 2k dollars on ceramic ones. The goopy, RA, others seals will take more abuse but they will also eat your rotor housings alive.
Worn stock bearings are usually recommended for a performance build as you don't have the tight spots common when you press new bearings in and so less chance of a seize.
For a real race set up the windowed bearings with deeper oil groove are nice (or you can make them out of the largest available standard bearing) and you should press them in and then clearance them with a die grinder/split mandrel and 600 down to 1500 grit .
You cut the e-shaft main bearing journal tapered or taper the ends of the bearings to account for e-shaft whip, clearance the rotor sides and do all the oil mods to the motor.
Basically, you either want to know what you are doing or stick with good used stock bearings.
For a real race set up the windowed bearings with deeper oil groove are nice (or you can make them out of the largest available standard bearing) and you should press them in and then clearance them with a die grinder/split mandrel and 600 down to 1500 grit .
You cut the e-shaft main bearing journal tapered or taper the ends of the bearings to account for e-shaft whip, clearance the rotor sides and do all the oil mods to the motor.
Basically, you either want to know what you are doing or stick with good used stock bearings.
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rx8volks
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Sep 1, 2015 10:46 PM






