My 88 vert has the "won't park, one speed" wiper issue. Is another symptom of this a non-working washer pump? My windshield washer doesn't work and i don't want to spend time chasing it down if the issue is the bad switch that I already know of.

Thanks,
RR

 

your wiper assembly/relay is gone, its going to need to be rebuilt. I have the same problem, some guy on the forums rebuilds them for i believe 50?

 

Washer pump has probably just rusted/corroded up. Autozone sells 'em for less than fifteen bucks. Check the elect signal to it first.

I agree........wipers will work when you get new relays installed by someone. Not a wiper motor problem. All sorts of wiper threads on this forum with part numbers of the relay and sources. Also advice to not do it yourself if this is your first solder/desolder project.

 

Yep. I know my relay(s) are gone on the wiper switch. I can deal with that for the time being. I just need to know if the washer not working is related, or if it's a separate issue (as in bad pump, etc.). I don't want to waste any time messing with it if the washer problem is a known side effect of the wiper switch/relay being bad. couldn't find any threads where washer not working is listed as a bad relay symptom.

 

As the diagrams show, the washer switch is not related to the wiper relays. Power for the washer motor is always there and when you put the switch to wash that act put a gnd on the blue/orange wire of the washer connector and the pump runs if good....does not run if frozen up.

Blue wire should be hot with key ON and blue/orange should have a gnd if the switch is put to washer/on. Something like that. Washer motors fail after yrs of sitting or even working a lot.

 

Thanks mucho, Hailers. I will dig into it then. the washer on my 88 coupe works, so that'll give me a test bed to work with

 

Ended up just being a tank full of muck. Not sure if the pump motor was running before I cleaned it all up or not (could never hear it from inside the car), but after removing the tank, it looked like a septic tank in there. The screen had fallen out and was completely plugged up. I removed all the hoses, and jets and recycled warm soapy water through everything for several minutes. cleaned the screen and reinserted it. Works like a dream now (even though I just have one speed on the wipers ).

 

Changing the relays was easy even with my extremely amateur soldering skills. If you have any electronics knowledge you'll probably be able to pull it off no problem.

 

Dont know if its useful but i found this online.

Failing Wiper Switch (Gary)

First remove the binnacle that contains the switches, unplug the 3 large connectors, and take the unit in to the workbench for a close examination. Remove the wiper switch module by pulling the ***** off and unscrewing the 2 screws that secure the module to the plastic binnacle. Then lever off the white plastic cover over the circuit board (it is secured by tongues into the black plastic case). Then desolder the rows of pins that secure the circuit board to the three switches in the module and remove the circuit board. Now, lever the cover off the relay nearest the wiper switch end (careful, these relays are fragile inside) and examine the open contact, it may appear burnt. Dressed it up with some fine emery paper, gently push the outer fixed contact in a little to close the gap a fraction, and reassemble the whole mess. Viola! Your problem is solved.

The tricky part is identifying the pins of the switches that need to be desoldered to get the PCB out. They are all along the "inside" edge, in two rows clustered in three groups (about 14 contacts in all). One of the wiper switch contacts is particularly difficult to desolder, as there are two pins shoved through the same hole. Use Dri-wick (solderwick) or similar, unless you have desoldering equipment at hand. Use only a hot enough iron to do the job, too much heat will cause the tracks to lift off.

The switch is, of course, also available from MazdaTrix, and can be purchased very cheaply at a junk yard.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/faq/FAQ.html

Quarter ways down the page.

Hope it helps!

 

Thats what most people Think it is. and end up destroying the PCB.

I got a lot of those "I can fix it but end up killing the switch", and I have to "hard wired" it back, some jackass even melt those tiny resistor up and kill the whole switch.

 

I used solder braid/wick and it worked fine. Using a low-wattage iron is very important too, as this quote says - I used a 25 watt and it worked great. I probably wouldn't go any higher, the solder melted plenty quick and I wouldn't want to risk damaging the board.

 

sorry don't mean to thread jack, but, I have a similar problem... My washer pump doesn't work, the idiot light is always on saying I need washer fluid (even though its full) and the wipers work sparatically, sometimes the 'INT' option doesnt work right, and it will just end up sticking like 1/2 way across the windshield, but the other constant wipe settings work fine. Any advice helps. Thanks

 

Page 41 in the link below will help you diagnose the problem with the fluid level being full but the idiot light stating otherwise.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...CAL_SYSTEM.pdf

 

remove the bottle, empty it, take it apart, rinse/clean whatever crap you see. put it back. and most likely it will be fine.

 

Washer fluid reservoirs float probably has a hole in it and SANK to the bottom of the reservoir.

 

okay, thank you all for the reply, im going to see if I can get this fixed tonight... thanks again

 

tore mine apart and flushed the entire thing out today. Pretty straight forward. Fortunantely, the way it's wired up (both pump and low fluid sensor) an aftermarket setup would be pretty simple to throw in there too.