Quick question about this exhaust stud
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stud extractor?
#7
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ok, Sooo: STud is "=" and nut is "0"
=====00=
now loosen the bottom of the two against the top one, thus giving you the ability to loosen and not spin the nut off.
yay! learning!
=====00=
now loosen the bottom of the two against the top one, thus giving you the ability to loosen and not spin the nut off.
yay! learning!
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#8
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You need two nuts of the appropriate thread (preferably but not necessarily, flanged nuts).
Thread the first nut on (if flanged, do it "upside down", flange out) but do not bottom it out on the threads.
Now thread on the second nut (flange down as normal...the two flanges will face each other) till the two nuts meet.
Use two open end wrenches to tighten the two nuts to each other- you are NOT cranking them both down on the end of the stud threads.
Now, with a wrench on just the inner nut, you can turn counterclockwise as normal, the now paired nuts have grabbed the threads of the stud and the stud loosens.
If the nuts try to spin up the stud, you don't have them tightened against each other enough.
This is where the flanged nuts are an advantage...the larger contact surface area gives more friction surface.
I removed every stud on my block, including those big honkers for the AC/PS bracket, with hand wrenches and DeepCreep, no heat required.
Thread the first nut on (if flanged, do it "upside down", flange out) but do not bottom it out on the threads.
Now thread on the second nut (flange down as normal...the two flanges will face each other) till the two nuts meet.
Use two open end wrenches to tighten the two nuts to each other- you are NOT cranking them both down on the end of the stud threads.
Now, with a wrench on just the inner nut, you can turn counterclockwise as normal, the now paired nuts have grabbed the threads of the stud and the stud loosens.
If the nuts try to spin up the stud, you don't have them tightened against each other enough.
This is where the flanged nuts are an advantage...the larger contact surface area gives more friction surface.
I removed every stud on my block, including those big honkers for the AC/PS bracket, with hand wrenches and DeepCreep, no heat required.
#9
You need two nuts of the appropriate thread (preferably but not necessarily, flanged nuts).
Thread the first nut on (if flanged, do it "upside down", flange out) but do not bottom it out on the threads.
Now thread on the second nut (flange down as normal...the two flanges will face each other) till the two nuts meet.
Use two open end wrenches to tighten the two nuts to each other- you are NOT cranking them both down on the end of the stud threads.
Now, with a wrench on just the inner nut, you can turn counterclockwise as normal, the now paired nuts have grabbed the threads of the stud and the stud loosens.
If the nuts try to spin up the stud, you don't have them tightened against each other enough.
This is where the flanged nuts are an advantage...the larger contact surface area gives more friction surface.
I removed every stud on my block, including those big honkers for the AC/PS bracket, with hand wrenches and DeepCreep, no heat required.
Thread the first nut on (if flanged, do it "upside down", flange out) but do not bottom it out on the threads.
Now thread on the second nut (flange down as normal...the two flanges will face each other) till the two nuts meet.
Use two open end wrenches to tighten the two nuts to each other- you are NOT cranking them both down on the end of the stud threads.
Now, with a wrench on just the inner nut, you can turn counterclockwise as normal, the now paired nuts have grabbed the threads of the stud and the stud loosens.
If the nuts try to spin up the stud, you don't have them tightened against each other enough.
This is where the flanged nuts are an advantage...the larger contact surface area gives more friction surface.
I removed every stud on my block, including those big honkers for the AC/PS bracket, with hand wrenches and DeepCreep, no heat required.
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