both but the one I am doing first is off of the car since it is around 30 degrees out right now. I am doing it this way so that I know exactly what to do when I go out there so that I do not have to be out there much longer that what I have to lol. Also if the one that is on the car at the moment is bad then I already have the spare set up so that it can just go right on....

 

anyone up late know the answer???

 

ok so I did some more adjustments and the full range full throttle resistance is correct now but the full range idle is still 200 Ohms above what it should be. Anyone know how to fix this or do I need a new switch???

 

You need to be doing the tests with it connected to the throttle body.

The full range is not adjustable, only the narrow range.

I find the only way to reliably adjust these is with the test light method. I could never get it right with a DMM.

 

Any idea which one of those plugs I need to jumper???

 

I don't understand the question.

By the way, don't use a test light with a bulb...

You have to fashion up a TPS adjuster with two 12v LED's and some spade connectors.

 

The plugs I took pics of. I dont know which one I need to jumper to set the idle.

have any idea????

 

To set idle or to adjust the TPS?

 

to set idle..... I thought i said that in my earlier post...

 

The same single wire connector you used to check codes.

 

kk thats what I thought. Hopefully be able to get it to idle tomarrow.

 

OK so I got the TPS reset the idle screw set and the BAC set so that it idles nicely at around 800 - 900 rpm. Still not as low as I would like but any lower and it starts to have engine vibrations. I switched out the ignitor and coil on the trailing side with one that worked and the Tach is still intermitten. If I jumper the connections the tach works perfectly though. Any ideas what could be causing it still. Also My battery is having a really hard time starting the car in the cold. Could that be related with the previous owner having a oil weight that is too high in the car because when I drive the car my oil pressure is close to 100 Psi after reaching operating temperature. Is that too high for the stock engine??? If it is how can I flush the oil cooler so that I can refill the entire system...?

 

Nah, the typical replacement batteries for our cars are relatively too small cranking amps wise. My car starts kinda slow when it is cold too.

Not sure about the coil.

Wouldn't worry about the oil pressure. It either has the regulator modified, or your sender just sucks.

 

Seems like the trailing coil is having problems and it's most likely not receiving the proper signal from the ECU for some reason so it's either caused by the wiring between the coil and ECU or the ECU itself and then there is the possibilty that it is the coil itself creating the problem.

 

Well there is one way to know if it is the ECU since I have the other ECU and it never did it before i switched them and the engine ran the same when I switched them so I will prbly switch that back today. I gotta go get me some purple to do my oil change today. I have some condensation in my oil because the car hasn't been ran for around 2 weeks now and the temps have dropped over 30 degrees.

Any idea which filter would be good. I am hoping to get a 15 micron filter. Any ideas???

Also what battery would be a good battery to switch to so I am not having hard starts.... The battery was fully charged with 574 CCA and the car was still turning over like it had a half dead battery...

 

Also on an additional note. I was wondering if this coolant called Evans Cooling and was wondering if it would be a good substitute for regular antifreeze because I would love to be able to have a zero pressure system and also not have to worry about my radiator rusting out because of the previous owners.



Oh yea I checked my oil and the oil wont even drip off the dip stick when it is around 30 degrees outside.......Is my oil too thick you think???

 

any ideas???

 

ttt

 

So new problem although it isn't major. Since I cannot run the car currently due to needing an oil change I thought I would take a look at the temperature sending unit since whenever my car starts my temperature gauge actually goes down like there is reverse voltage. I discovered that my sending unit wire was cut just like my coolant level sensor although I cannot locate where the wire is that was cut. If anyone can just take a picture of the main harness where your sending unit wire meets the main harness I would greatly appreciate it. Since the engine in the other rx7 is removed I cannot find the location of that wire either for some reason.

Your help is appreciated.

 

The temp sender wire is Tan/Red if I remember correctly (like I said, if I remember correctly, check the FSM).

It goes straight from the sender into the driver side engine management harness almost instantly, below the trailing coil.

I am trying to think of how your gauge would be going backward, but can't. The gauge gets voltage and it is resistive to ground. Weird.

 

Ok well I was able to push the car and get the wire that came off the sender. I have included a pic of it. The wire on it is red w/ green stripe. I cannot locate any schematics for the sender to even tell if the color is correct or if the previous owner just put it on there to make it look like it was connected. Anyway I cannot find any wires that are the same anywhere around the coil pack so I am at a loss. Next thing I guess is to crack the dash and see if I can locate the wire in the cabin....

Also does anyone know where to get amsoil??? I have looked all over around where I live but I cannot find anyplace that sells it.

Thanks in advance.

 

Oooops forgot to post pic lol

 

OK so I went to my other house and got out the old iron from my rebuild and the thermo sender unit in that one is a spade so my question is.....The thermo sender unit in the picture, Is it a completely wrong unit???

 

OK so that thermo unit was off of something else and the pigtail in the picture with the red and green wire looked very farmiliar when I pulled the manual transmission out of my parts car this morning lol. So the next thing is the oil change which will be done today along with a new battery since the one that I currently have only has 500 CCA and that doesn't seem to want to turn the engine. The next thing that I have to do is get a double pulley for the alternater or put the air pump back on......I think I will just put the air pump back on until i get the double pulley so that way I do not keep burning up alt belts. I think the problem with the car not keeping charge is the belt slipping on the water pump so I am going to put the air pump back on but just let it set in there to make sure the water pump is turning correctly. Also I will be going back to my old stock clutch fan and taking out the electric fan as the fan pulls enough amps to burn through 6 gauge wire lol. Hopefully putting this stuff back on will make it so that I can go outside anytime and start up the car.

 

Something seriously wrong with either the fan or the wiring...no proper automotive fan pulls that kind of amperage.