Alright I might be doin the TID mod today(had the parts forever). Now as I understand it the BOV and air bypass valve have lines running into the stock TID. I'd like to not have to drill into the TID so is there a way around that? I don't have an air pump and will be removing the ACV soon so I don't need the air bypass line to go into my TID right? And can I just get a check valve or something on my BOV or does that need to get put into the TID? Thanks.

 

you dont need to have in plumbed back into you TID but iv heard stories of ppl that get problems from venting them to the atmosphere cause the MAS is accounting for AIR that isnt there

 

Well when I install my BOV I'll be open-venting it anyways, so it shouldn't be any different, right?

 

I think the stock BOV is vented back inot the system, and has to be this way because of MAS system.

Just vent the BOV back into the TID.

 

how do people run aftermarket bovs? It would be the same as runninng an atmo vented stock one i think.

 

Thats what I was thinking.

 

You need the swing valve because the stock one is not designed to draw closed like an aftermarket one. The stock BOV will cause a major vacuum leak at idle (resulting in no idle) if left open.

I bought a $1.50 swing valve from Home Depot to hold me over until my BOV came.

Also there is a smog (I think its a PCV fitting) that goes to the TID. I left it open on mine until I was able to get in there and take the solenoid rack off.

 

is there a place i can go that takes you through how to build a TID?? instructons

 

Like felix wankel said, use a swing valve from Home Depot until you can get an aftermarket BOV.
You will need to also purchase some hose clamps, hose and a threaded coupler to attach the swing valve to the BOV.
There are no real adverse affects to doing this. If you have open exhaust (no cats) it will be easier to shoot flames between shifts.

As for constructing the TID, I don't have a website to show you, but it is fairly easy.
Go to Home Depot:
Buy:
1) 3" to 2.5" reducer (rubber)
1) 3" PVC 45 degree peice
1) 3" coupler (rubber)

These are all in the plumbing section of Home Depot (probably right by the section you will have to buy the swing valve at.)

Attach the reducer to the turbo inlet
Attach the 3" PVC to the reducer (you will have to cut the female end off to get it to fit)
attach the 3" coupler to the AFM
throw your cone filter on and adjust everything and you're done.
Don't worry about the extra line (PVC) that is not hooked up to the TID. Mine hasn't been hooked up for years. No ill effects.