Q about port valve actuator removal
#1
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Q about port valve actuator removal
I just got a new engine for my 7 and had it ported and polished before being shipped out. Now since I don't have the auxiliary port valves I can remove the actuators.
Does anybody see any problem with doing this? I'm planning on making block-off plates out of aluminum to cover where the actuator was bolted before.
Do I need the air pump any more? I don't use Catalytic convertors, so if I've heard right that the air pump is only for the main cat and the aux. port actuator than I should be able to remove it(or rather not install it).
Thanks for the help! Hopefully I'll have my 7 on the road by the end of next week!
Does anybody see any problem with doing this? I'm planning on making block-off plates out of aluminum to cover where the actuator was bolted before.
Do I need the air pump any more? I don't use Catalytic convertors, so if I've heard right that the air pump is only for the main cat and the aux. port actuator than I should be able to remove it(or rather not install it).
Thanks for the help! Hopefully I'll have my 7 on the road by the end of next week!
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You'd probably benefit from functioning 6 ports since porting doesn't do a whole lot on an NA, and you can use all the torque you can get down low. However, if I were you I'd just take those suckers out. You will have to remove the upper and lower intake manifolds, so give yourself plenty of time. Be sure to have the necessary intake gaskets before you start. If you make block-off plates where the actuators used to be just seal them well and it will be fine. You don't need the air pump if it's an 86-88, but if it's an '89+ the air pump actuates the 5/6th ports if you decide to reinstall them. Good luck!
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Thanks,
I did forget to mention that it's a '87 T-II. The engine is already ported and there's no place for the port valves. They've been ground out so the secondary ports and auxiliary ports are one port now. At least that's the way it is on the housing where the intake manifold bolts to. I'm not sure about inside the engine.
If I'm not describing it clearly, you can check out the pics of it at: http://www.6speed.org/rx7/engineswap/index.html The 6th picture down shows the intake/exhaust side of the new housings.
The holes where the port valves went are long gone.
Great. I'll be glad to get rid of the air pump.
I did forget to mention that it's a '87 T-II. The engine is already ported and there's no place for the port valves. They've been ground out so the secondary ports and auxiliary ports are one port now. At least that's the way it is on the housing where the intake manifold bolts to. I'm not sure about inside the engine.
If I'm not describing it clearly, you can check out the pics of it at: http://www.6speed.org/rx7/engineswap/index.html The 6th picture down shows the intake/exhaust side of the new housings.
The holes where the port valves went are long gone.
Great. I'll be glad to get rid of the air pump.
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If it's a turbo you don't have aux ports so you don't have to worry about any of that. 13b turbos are 4 port engines instead of 6 port. You can still lose the air pump as long as you aren't using the two cats. I don't understand why you used to have aux port actuators though .
#7
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Are you saying the acuators are currently bolted onto your engine on your T2 engine? There were never aux. ports to begin with on your T2, so there shouldn't have been an aux. valve, or actuators on EVER. Do you have pics of the actuators on your engine now?
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#8
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No.. All of you are right!!! I was just being a bonehead!
I was looking at the Haynes manual and saw them, and knew the new motor(Yes, it is an Atkins) didn't have them. I figured(hoped?) they were taken out when it was ported & polished.
Here's what I did:
* Obviously didn't take the port actuators off since there were none...
* Didn't install the air pump (I am removing my cat... wrong one anyway)
* Removed the ACV assembly and blocked it off.
* Added a nipple to the ACV block-off for the boost sensor.
* Removed lots of Vacum lines. I only have EGR, pressure switch, and twin scroll solenoids left. Gotta get rid of the EGR soon.
* Ordering the alternator dual pulley so the waterpump has 2 belts turning it.
Anyone ever put a second alternator where the air pump was? I'm thinking about putting a second battery behind the seats in one of those boxes, and with the alternator being so small I can ruin it very quickly with my amp. The second alternator would definately help. I'd take it off and remove all the stereo crap when I race of course.
I was looking at the Haynes manual and saw them, and knew the new motor(Yes, it is an Atkins) didn't have them. I figured(hoped?) they were taken out when it was ported & polished.
Here's what I did:
* Obviously didn't take the port actuators off since there were none...
* Didn't install the air pump (I am removing my cat... wrong one anyway)
* Removed the ACV assembly and blocked it off.
* Added a nipple to the ACV block-off for the boost sensor.
* Removed lots of Vacum lines. I only have EGR, pressure switch, and twin scroll solenoids left. Gotta get rid of the EGR soon.
* Ordering the alternator dual pulley so the waterpump has 2 belts turning it.
Anyone ever put a second alternator where the air pump was? I'm thinking about putting a second battery behind the seats in one of those boxes, and with the alternator being so small I can ruin it very quickly with my amp. The second alternator would definately help. I'd take it off and remove all the stereo crap when I race of course.
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