Put a magnet to my hood today....
#1
...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Put a magnet to my hood today....
It STUCK !! BAH!!
what is teh weight difference between teh aluminum and steel hoods?
What FC's came with alum's? Anyone have it?
what is teh weight difference between teh aluminum and steel hoods?
What FC's came with alum's? Anyone have it?
#3
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Okinawa, Japan
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you can, do a side by side comparison. One steel and one Al hood. When raising the hood you will notice right away the difference.
jerk_racer@hotmail.com
jerk_racer@hotmail.com
#4
...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by RXTASY1
Not enough to worry about.
100 lbs.=.09 seconds in the 1/4 mile.
Not enough to worry about.
100 lbs.=.09 seconds in the 1/4 mile.
#5
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
The 88 vert and some 88-91 GTUs came with the aluminum hood, w/o scoop.
And it is about 120lbs for the steel hood, I don't remember what the aluminum was but I thought it was about 50lbs.
Good only for about 1/10th of a second, and bad for ever getting a dent in it taken out.
And it is about 120lbs for the steel hood, I don't remember what the aluminum was but I thought it was about 50lbs.
Good only for about 1/10th of a second, and bad for ever getting a dent in it taken out.
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Mississauga
Posts: 974
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check K2RD they have different wheight specs posted.
A steel hood will be difficult for the average guy to lift all the way up with 1 arm, the Al. is really light, u can just kinda throw it up.
A steel hood will be difficult for the average guy to lift all the way up with 1 arm, the Al. is really light, u can just kinda throw it up.
Trending Topics
#10
Full Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Tri-Cities
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: hoods
Originally posted by finky
Has anyone cut any of the bracing out of the steel hood? I was just thinking about doing this yesterday.
Has anyone cut any of the bracing out of the steel hood? I was just thinking about doing this yesterday.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Montgomery, Al.
Posts: 724
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The difference in weight is quite noticeable. When I had my '90 GTU I did a side by side comparison with my convertible. My '89 convertible has one, BTW.
So you don't notice much at the drag strip, but you're still shaving ~30 lbs. from the top of your car, think about the handling benefits. That's ~30 less pounds that your car has to transition from side to side, as well as bring to a stop, and other things but you get the point.
So you don't notice much at the drag strip, but you're still shaving ~30 lbs. from the top of your car, think about the handling benefits. That's ~30 less pounds that your car has to transition from side to side, as well as bring to a stop, and other things but you get the point.
#12
Rotorhead
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes
on
33 Posts
I'm going to agree with Mykl on this one. The aluminum hood saves a substantial amount of weight, and every little bit helps for accelereration, braking, handling, and gas mileage. If you have ever driven a gutted RX-7 you will know what I am talking about. BTW, a friend of mine replaced his FD stock aluminum hood with an $800 carbon fiber hood for a weight savings of a whopping 1 lb. If you can junk your steel hood for a $50-200 aluminum hood to save 30 lbs, then I would say that you have made yourself a much better deal.
There was no rhyme or reason for which models had aluminum hoods and which had steel, so you will need to bring a magnet with you to the salvage yard until you can eyeball the different hoods (you will be able to do this in time, Grasshopper). You can also check on this or other RX-7 forums, Ebay, and your local SCCA publication for hoods. I recommend the non-turbo aluminum hood for those with an NA or FMIC, as it is better at keeping the elements out of the engine bay, and it usually sells for half the price of the TII hood. Oh, and yes, the aluminum hood will dent easier, and will get destroyed by hail.
There was no rhyme or reason for which models had aluminum hoods and which had steel, so you will need to bring a magnet with you to the salvage yard until you can eyeball the different hoods (you will be able to do this in time, Grasshopper). You can also check on this or other RX-7 forums, Ebay, and your local SCCA publication for hoods. I recommend the non-turbo aluminum hood for those with an NA or FMIC, as it is better at keeping the elements out of the engine bay, and it usually sells for half the price of the TII hood. Oh, and yes, the aluminum hood will dent easier, and will get destroyed by hail.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Montgomery, Al.
Posts: 724
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Evil Aviator
Oh, and yes, the aluminum hood will dent easier, and will get destroyed by hail.
Oh, and yes, the aluminum hood will dent easier, and will get destroyed by hail.
If I were to get the car repainted I'd have the body shop smooth it over with some filler or something.
But I guess for a 12 year old car it's fared rather well.
#14
Learn to swim.
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Mobile,AL
Posts: 1,301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Mykl
Yeah, although you can't tell unless you look at it at an angle there's a few little "bumps" and imperfections in my hood.
If I were to get the car repainted I'd have the body shop smooth it over with some filler or something.
But I guess for a 12 year old car it's fared rather well.
Yeah, although you can't tell unless you look at it at an angle there's a few little "bumps" and imperfections in my hood.
If I were to get the car repainted I'd have the body shop smooth it over with some filler or something.
But I guess for a 12 year old car it's fared rather well.
I work at a dealership and the guys here do a good job. He will charge me $40 a panel. That means he will take all of the dents out of any 1 panel (i.e. hood,fender,ect.) for 40 bucks. Thats a deal I get through the dealership though. I think they charge $60 a panel normally.
Mike
#15
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Right Here!
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You guys have ALMOST talked me in to taking off my aluminum SE hood and putting it on my TII. My TII has a FMIC.
I said ALMOST! I don't think the few pounds loss is worth it. Besides, I would have to repaint it.
I said ALMOST! I don't think the few pounds loss is worth it. Besides, I would have to repaint it.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Montgomery, Al.
Posts: 724
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by stinkfist
If it bothers you, you can call one of those paintless dent removal places. They will get your hood straight and you wont have to have it painted.
I work at a dealership and the guys here do a good job. He will charge me $40 a panel. That means he will take all of the dents out of any 1 panel (i.e. hood,fender,ect.) for 40 bucks. Thats a deal I get through the dealership though. I think they charge $60 a panel normally.
Mike
If it bothers you, you can call one of those paintless dent removal places. They will get your hood straight and you wont have to have it painted.
I work at a dealership and the guys here do a good job. He will charge me $40 a panel. That means he will take all of the dents out of any 1 panel (i.e. hood,fender,ect.) for 40 bucks. Thats a deal I get through the dealership though. I think they charge $60 a panel normally.
Mike
#18
Rotary Enthusiast
My friend has an 86 NA with supposedly sport suspension and an aluminum hood. And my other friend has a 88 NA steel hood.
You can definately tell the difference between the two.
You can definately tell the difference between the two.
#19
mad scientist
Where did you get the 100 lbs=.09 seconds from? That is way off. First, I garuntee if I removed 500 lbs from an otherwise stock RX7, any model, it will drop more that .5 sec off its 1/4 time. Also, the gains are not linear. 100 lbs taken off a car that already weight 2000 lbs is going to have a lot more of an effect on times than 100 lbs taken off a 3500 lb car. See what Im saying? The drop in times would be linear if you used a percentage of the total cars weight, but I dont have the resources to figure that out.
You can check this out next time you go to the strip in your car. Let a friend ride with you after you do a few runs by yourself. I am almost sure, all other things being close to equal, that you will lose more than .14 sec is your friend weight 150 lbs.
You can check this out next time you go to the strip in your car. Let a friend ride with you after you do a few runs by yourself. I am almost sure, all other things being close to equal, that you will lose more than .14 sec is your friend weight 150 lbs.
#20
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Right Here!
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep.... You are right!
100 lbs.=.16 seconds!
I guess maybe I will be putting on that aluminum hood!
Check this link out!
http://www.fantasycars.com/derek/quartmile.html
Has some good calculators on it!
100 lbs.=.16 seconds!
I guess maybe I will be putting on that aluminum hood!
Check this link out!
http://www.fantasycars.com/derek/quartmile.html
Has some good calculators on it!
#22
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by Ryde _Or_Die
Anyone have any idea how much they rear seats weigh? How much would that help? Thanks.
Anyone have any idea how much they rear seats weigh? How much would that help? Thanks.
#23
...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wieghts:
86-88 NA 2,625lbs 86-88 NA 2+2 2,645
89-91 GXL 2,800 GXL 2+2 2,820
I am considering ditching the seats and putting back the bins. I put em in to ahh.... well lets just say that my insurance co. is more partial to 4 seaters
86-88 NA 2,625lbs 86-88 NA 2+2 2,645
89-91 GXL 2,800 GXL 2+2 2,820
I am considering ditching the seats and putting back the bins. I put em in to ahh.... well lets just say that my insurance co. is more partial to 4 seaters
Last edited by dre_2ooo; 10-03-01 at 05:56 PM.
#24
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Right Here!
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
According to the calculator on the site above, if I get rid of my hood, I will run in the 12's!!! Maybe I should just take it off when I'm racing?
Right now I am running in the low 13's when I hook em' up!
Right now I am running in the low 13's when I hook em' up!
#25
Originally posted by dre_2ooo
wieghts:
86-88 NA 2,625lbs 86-88 NA 2+2 2,645
89-91 GXL 2,800 GXL 2+2 2,820
I am considering ditching the seats and putting back the bins. I put em in to ahh.... well lets just say that my insurance co. is more partial to 4 seaters
wieghts:
86-88 NA 2,625lbs 86-88 NA 2+2 2,645
89-91 GXL 2,800 GXL 2+2 2,820
I am considering ditching the seats and putting back the bins. I put em in to ahh.... well lets just say that my insurance co. is more partial to 4 seaters
Your tellin me that the rear seats in my 88 only weigh 20 lbs? I highly doubt that. I guess thats the difference in havin seats & bins. I think Ima ditch em. If I can lose 200lbs how much would that help? Thanks.