pikawel

Alright, I'm leaning towards the Mazda RX-7 due to their tangibility and economic viability. I've got myself the latest AutoTrader and there's a few RX-7's that fit in my $2600 budget (ghetto, I know it...). If I call these folks up, what questions am I going to want to ask... I'm not a car buff by any means so I look to the Gods for help!

vaughnc

First rule of buying an rx-7 is get the engine compression test results. That will tell you if the engine core is in good shape.

If the owner doesn't know, tell him you'll pay for the test and ask him to re-imburse you if the scores are low. Mazda dealerships and most rx-7 shops can do the test for you for around $75.

The 86-88 GXLs, SE, sport, etc... models can last 200K miles on the engine very easily. The 89-92 GTU and GXL models have a little more horsepower and slightly different bodystyle.

The 88-92 GTU & GTUs models have the best horsepower/dollar/costs/fun ratios out there. The GXL models have more luxury and a little less horsepower. The convertible model is a sweet car to drive, especially the stickshift convertible.

The turbo TII models need engine rebuilds around 140-160K miles usually. If you find a turbo II that looks good, passes compression, and runs good for $2600 - that's about 1/2 of what they normally cost and would be a good deal.

As usual if your seriously thinking of buying one your looking at, after the compresion test results are good spend 3 hours minimum looking over the car opening stuff, looking for rust, checking for undercar body damage, frame integrity, bodyseam consistency, paintjob, etc..

Just like any car the previous owner's maintenance and driving can really extend or shorten the drivetrain's lifespan. Records are always good.

A few pictures of normal rx-7s, ones with bodykits, etc..

vaughnc

Heffner

I think that if you are patient, you can find a good car for 2,600. I found an 88 GXL in Datona for 2,800 from an rx mechanic.

He had also put a set of 17" Quantem teck rims, stage 4 clutch and had hollowed out the cat.

thepartstrader.com has plenty of rx7's for sale that will fit your price range and you will probably be able to find one within driving distance.

Granted, it is not a tII, it is just an na but guys that list cars for around 3,000 will probably take 2,600 for the car.

Plenty of deals out there. I love my car, after buying it, I put 1,600 miles on it in about 3 weeks and it is running like a top. You will not regret it.

pikawel

http://www.autotrader.com/findacar/r...sed&x=107&y=16



Alright, tell me what you guys think. The $3000 one really looks like a winner but I'd have to talk him down. Any hints

jizzajuice

Glad to hear that you're going to join the Rx7 family soon. ^_^ In any case, I have an 88GXL and I love it. Yes yes, all my friends say, "But it's not turbo so it won't go fast!" Sure it doesn't.... that's not what all those stang me and my friends roasted out on the circuit. ^_- I got mine 140k miles *a bit on the high side but the engine was prestine and I mean PRESTINE* for 2500USD. I did talk the owner down a little bit from 3100 but hey, that's bargaining! A couple more things to look for in terms of just general checkups before purchasing a car are to look for rust spots all over. On the Rx7 especially the rear hatch areas. Water tends to pool around the hatch seals during rain, so if the car's in an area that tends to rain a lot *Seattle for me, then be careful there. I understand that Rx7's are usually made from aluminum mostly and the paint they use has latex or something in it that resists rusting but it's still good to check. ^_- Well, hopefully you'll find the car of your dreams and good luck!

Peace,
AJ ^_^

pikawel

I'mma call this guy concerning his RX7 GXL tomorrow. "white/burgundy, 5spd, all pwr, ac, cd, sunroof, well maint, tags good till april '02, 168K, $2100 OBO"

I figure the engine might be a problem and will possibly need replacing in a couple months or so. By that time I'll have some more money so if there is something I should look into, it won't be a big problem.

Basically, I want a car that I CAN actually do something with (work on, watch it grow... heh) and that isn't completely lame.

pikawel

There's a 1988 SE in here that claims to "need engine repair" for $1200. Can you convert an SE into a TII... what's the difficulty rating on such a venture, heh.

-I'm trying to find out anything I can-

turboedRX-7

Its just better to start with a Turbo, then do the conversion. For hints on the $3,000 one, I would ask him how it makes 163 HP? They came stock with 160. So this will let him know you do know something about them. Also ask what "engine service" has been done? The only engine service they need is oil changes. I do like how he says he has service records, but how detailed are they? For pointers on how to get him to your range, see if anything needs replacing...Like the exhaust is very expensive to replace (Stock) or is the AC cold? If not it could be quite expensive to fix if it needs more than a recharge. What shape is the interior? Does all the pw options work? Any damage? Ever? When was the clutch replaced? Pull the dipstick, does it smell of gas? If so you can tell him that means the injectors are leaking, has it ever flooded? All these ? and many more can get someone down to your price. However it could be worth what he is asking, so he just might not budge that much & sell to someone else.
Good luck I sure have loved all the RX-7's I have owned. My current one a 88 T2! But do make sure you do the compression test it will let you know what shape the engine is in.

pikawel

What do good compression test results look like? What's the scoring format? I just glanced in the paper and there's a "'88 RX7 turbo, a/c, CD, xlnt cond I/O, $2250 obo..."

What the hell does the I/O mean? If the engine is in good shape, that would be a kickass, cream-dream deal!!

vaughnc

Usually the mazda shop can translate them for you to a % of OEM compression. We can also do that here if you post the results.

Not sure on I/O.

Yeah - ask the seller or dealer what the score was. If they don't know ask them to re-imburse you if mazda say's the engine's about gone.

$2500 is the max I would pay for a low compression mazda because you'll need to have the engine rebuilt. You'd still be paying $5500-$6000 if you had to put a rebuilt engine in and that's about the right real world value. Now if the engine really did have good compression for $2500 - your right that's a steal.

vaughnc

Edited - woops didn't mean to repost.

Green

xlnt cond I/O = Excellent condition IN MY OPPINION ?

hahahaha maybe... that's funny..

Green

OH ask people if the car smokes at all! if so, usually means bad oil seal rings... Only way to fix that is rebuild.. and the smoke can be anoying... mine smoked a lot before I rebuilt it.. Just means burning more oil than it should be hehe

supergoat

HUH???? Where did you hear that. I thought ALL non-turbos shared the same engine.