pump rewire.. pain in my but, need answers plz
#27
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if you think its wire thats the problem.. cut into the blue wires and run a 12gauge to the back and splice into blue at the pump and connect.. very simple.
#28
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Originally posted by imloggedin
u dont move this one.. you just add a relay to whats there. sorry if you dont understand what it is.. but its obvious what it is.. my addition to stock method is.. cut the blue/red wire, and insert your relay.. thats is. doing the same thing as other way except your keeping it up front.. bing.. not hard to understand. much much simpler than the first rewire.
u dont move this one.. you just add a relay to whats there. sorry if you dont understand what it is.. but its obvious what it is.. my addition to stock method is.. cut the blue/red wire, and insert your relay.. thats is. doing the same thing as other way except your keeping it up front.. bing.. not hard to understand. much much simpler than the first rewire.
if you dont understand it why are you posting against it?
Originally posted by JonEQuest
How much power is actually lost from the 10' run of stock wire? That does not sound right, voltage drop on wire is so small it cannot be usually measured unless it is a bad wire. If you are redoing a circuit differently that's one thing but changing the wire should'nt make any difference at all.
How much power is actually lost from the 10' run of stock wire? That does not sound right, voltage drop on wire is so small it cannot be usually measured unless it is a bad wire. If you are redoing a circuit differently that's one thing but changing the wire should'nt make any difference at all.
Here's all the proof I need. Before I did the rewire, voltage at the fuel pump was ~8.5V (low) and ~12.5V (high). Now it's ~9.5V (low) and ~13.8V (high). That's a significant improvement from just changing the wires...
#29
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***Here's all the proof I need. Before I did the rewire, voltage at the fuel pump
was ~8.5V (low) and ~12.5V (high). Now it's ~9.5V (low) and ~13.8V (high).
That's a significant improvement from just changing the wires...****
How about a real test??? Drive at night with the air conditioner on, radio on, hopefully the lights on, and check the(HIGH) when your boosting at your best boost!
was ~8.5V (low) and ~12.5V (high). Now it's ~9.5V (low) and ~13.8V (high).
That's a significant improvement from just changing the wires...****
How about a real test??? Drive at night with the air conditioner on, radio on, hopefully the lights on, and check the(HIGH) when your boosting at your best boost!
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wtf is ineffective.. you run ONE WIRE FOR POWER and its the same friggin thing as the other rewire except your not relocating jack crap.. how can you deny that.. you cant.. this is idiotic.. i dont know how many times i said "if you think its the wire run a new one from the blue" bLHA BLAH BLAH.. why dont you listen.
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**Here's all the proof I need. Before I did the rewire, voltage at the fuel pump was ~8.5V (low) and ~12.5V (high). Now it's ~9.5V (low) and ~13.8V (high). That's a significant improvement from just changing the wires...**
PLUS your rewire probably included the new wire ran from the battery... hmm wonder if that had anything to do with it.. your trying to prove its the WIRE itself when whos to say its not the source you are getting voltage from with the new "rewire" installed.
PLUS your rewire probably included the new wire ran from the battery... hmm wonder if that had anything to do with it.. your trying to prove its the WIRE itself when whos to say its not the source you are getting voltage from with the new "rewire" installed.
#32
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Well, I have some more proof for ya. I just did the rewire yesterday (previuos page I posted pics) and I put everything back together and went for a test run today, guess what I had to dial down my fuel ~3-5% across the board, I was running noticeably richer.
-Robert
-Robert
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bottom line.. i dont care what you think NZ or anyone else for that matter.. the diagram i made (to TRY and help people) is MUCH simpler.. it does EXACTLY the same thing as the old one without relocating the resistor/relay or running speaker wire (run power wire if you please). if you dont see that, open your friggin eyes and figure out what you are doing before you try and speak about something you dont know about. this thread can be closed for all i care and ill post my diagram elsewhere.. where people dont try and "prove it wrong" with idiotic statements. please people, have some dang sense.
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Originally posted by HAILERS
How about a real test??? Drive at night with the air conditioner on, radio on, hopefully the lights on, and check the(HIGH) when your boosting at your best boost!
How about a real test??? Drive at night with the air conditioner on, radio on, hopefully the lights on, and check the(HIGH) when your boosting at your best boost!
Originally posted by imloggedin
wtf is ineffective.. you run ONE WIRE FOR POWER and its the same friggin thing as the other rewire except your not relocating jack crap.. how can you deny that.. you cant.. this is idiotic.. i dont know how many times i said "if you think its the wire run a new one from the blue" bLHA BLAH BLAH.. why dont you listen.
wtf is ineffective.. you run ONE WIRE FOR POWER and its the same friggin thing as the other rewire except your not relocating jack crap.. how can you deny that.. you cant.. this is idiotic.. i dont know how many times i said "if you think its the wire run a new one from the blue" bLHA BLAH BLAH.. why dont you listen.
PLUS your rewire probably included the new wire ran from the battery... hmm wonder if that had anything to do with it.. your trying to prove its the WIRE itself when whos to say its not the source you are getting voltage from with the new "rewire" installed.
bottom line.. i dont care what you think NZ or anyone else for that matter.
the diagram i made (to TRY and help people) is MUCH simpler.
it does EXACTLY the same thing as the old one...
if you dont see that, open your friggin eyes and figure out what you are doing before you try and speak about something you dont know about.
The original rewire was designed (I believe) by Dale Clark, who has far more experience with these cars than you or me. All I did was draw the schematic based on his design. It's been around unchanged for a long time and has been successfully performed by many, many people, including those with enough electrical knowledge to see potential improvements or simplifications if there are any.
If you think your design is so great, then do it and post the results. Make sure you provide results for the stock wiring, the original rewire and your design. Don't throw your toys out of the sandpit just because someone challenges your ideas.
#36
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no someone challenges my ideas when they dont understand what im saying (you). do you still not get what ive been saying about the BLUE wire the whole time ive been posting. i GET what the original rewire does.. apparently i get it better than you do. its a matter of opinion weather its drop in voltage on the wire because of WHERE you are getting it.. IE you change to the battery instead of the circuit opening relay. OR you think its the WIRE itself. either way i gave options for both.. my schematic shows you adding a relay in the front of the car and leaving as is. and i will say it again, the BLUE WIRE runs back to your fuel pump.. CUT IT up front, run the 12 gauge wire to the back.. and resplice it in.. SAME THING as doing the original rewire except no remounting, no speaker cable, no blah blah.. i dont know how i could make it anymore clearer. i dont mean to be stupid about it, but im trying to help and ive explained it many many times and you still arent getting it. very annoying.
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Originally posted by imloggedin
very annoying.
very annoying.
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Originally posted by imloggedin
i GET what the original rewire does.. apparently i get it better than you do.
i GET what the original rewire does.. apparently i get it better than you do.
its a matter of opinion weather its drop in voltage on the wire because of WHERE you are getting it.. IE you change to the battery instead of the circuit opening relay. OR you think its the WIRE itself.
and i will say it again, the BLUE WIRE runs back to your fuel pump.. CUT IT up front, run the 12 gauge wire to the back.. and resplice it in.. SAME THING as doing the original rewire except no remounting, no speaker cable, no blah blah..
Do we see any wiring running back to the pump? Ah, no...
It is possible to do this and leave the relay/resistor in place, but it means your new power wire is much longer. You have to run from the battery across to the other side of the car to the relay/resistor and then back to the other side again where the pump plug is. The whole point of doing this is to shorten the power wire. The most direct route is straight from the battery to the pump.
i dont know how i could make it anymore clearer. i dont mean to be stupid about it, but im trying to help and ive explained it many many times and you still arent getting it. very annoying.
#39
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**Let's not forget who's schematic you used in the first place. If I don't get it, how come my rewire worked perfectly, and nobody who's followed my schematic has complained about it? **
-yah i used YOUR schematic wich had the wrong numbers on the relay and was probably taken from the drawn one at 1300cc.com.. if you knew the rewire that well, you woulda understood from step 1 what i was doing. lol LAME.
-yah i used YOUR schematic wich had the wrong numbers on the relay and was probably taken from the drawn one at 1300cc.com.. if you knew the rewire that well, you woulda understood from step 1 what i was doing. lol LAME.
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**Do we see any wiring running back to the pump? Ah, no... It is possible to do this and leave the relay/resistor in place, but it means your new power wire is much longer. You have to run from the battery across to the other side of the car to the relay/resistor and then back to the other side again where the pump plug is. The whole point of doing this is to shorten the power wire. The most direct route is straight from the battery to the pump.**
-Do we see me saying "if you wanna run new wire tap into the blue wire" 50 billion times, ahhh YES.. open your eyes. i dont think its gonna lose voltage because of 4 feet of wire added to it lmao, ITS SOO MUCH LONGER. i would much rather do that than run 20 feet MORE wire, with the power wire (the speaker wire) and relocate everything. let not forget THAT extension.
-Do we see me saying "if you wanna run new wire tap into the blue wire" 50 billion times, ahhh YES.. open your eyes. i dont think its gonna lose voltage because of 4 feet of wire added to it lmao, ITS SOO MUCH LONGER. i would much rather do that than run 20 feet MORE wire, with the power wire (the speaker wire) and relocate everything. let not forget THAT extension.
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**Let's not forget you came up with this "simplification" because you stuffed your original rewire, and then decided this must've been because it was too complicated. The original rewire is the most effective way to do it, whether you like it or not.**
my original rewire was great.. it even worked after i figured out your numbers were jacked, compared to my relay. the original is WAY more complicated than it should be, and WAY more work than it should be.. ill post a friggin picture when i get home of my "original rewire" it was fine.
if you cant see that this way is much easier and exactly the same friggin modification with much less effort, go away and post your bs elsewhere.
my original rewire was great.. it even worked after i figured out your numbers were jacked, compared to my relay. the original is WAY more complicated than it should be, and WAY more work than it should be.. ill post a friggin picture when i get home of my "original rewire" it was fine.
if you cant see that this way is much easier and exactly the same friggin modification with much less effort, go away and post your bs elsewhere.
#42
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Originally posted by imloggedin
yah i used YOUR schematic wich had the wrong numbers on the relay and was probably taken from the drawn one at 1300cc.com.. if you knew the rewire that well, you woulda understood from step 1 what i was doing. lol LAME.
yah i used YOUR schematic wich had the wrong numbers on the relay and was probably taken from the drawn one at 1300cc.com.. if you knew the rewire that well, you woulda understood from step 1 what i was doing. lol LAME.
The rewire on Scott's website (1300cc.com) is Dale Clark's. The reason I did my own schematic was because Dale's original write-up didn't have one and Scott's drawing isn't very clear. I did it for me to use. Several people posted that they had trouble understanding the written instructions, so I posted my schematic to help them. So far you're the only person to complain about it.
Do we see me saying "if you wanna run new wire tap into the blue wire" 50 billion times, ahhh YES.. open your eyes.
i dont think its gonna lose voltage because of 4 feet of wire added to it lmao, ITS SOO MUCH LONGER. i would much rather do that than run 20 feet MORE wire, with the power wire (the speaker wire) and relocate everything. let not forget THAT extension.
I pulled the power and speaker wires at the same time, so it was no more difficult than pulling one wire. Relocating the relay/resistor to the back doesn't add any extra wire. Well it didn't on my install, I can't speak for yours.
my original rewire was great.. it even worked after i figured out your numbers were jacked, compared to my relay.
the original is WAY more complicated than it should be, and WAY more work than it should be..
Last edited by NZConvertible; 01-05-04 at 10:08 PM.
#43
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**I did it for me to use. Several people posted that they had trouble understanding the written instructions, so I posted my schematic to help them. So far you're the only person to complain about it.**
at first i was informing people that they may have the wrong numbers, so check.. then you got holier than thou and i started to say more about it.
-----------------------------------------------
**Do either of your drawings show it? No. Since it's the main reason for doing this mod, perhaps you should've shown it. Otherwise what you posted was useless. The power wire to the pump isn't an "option" as you imply, its the whole resaon for doing this.**
from step 1 you said "that is pointless".. not even reading wtf i said. thats a ******* move, when the whole time ive been saying if you wanna run the wire after the resistor/relay SPLICE INTO THE BLUE. and yes it is an option CAUSE I MADE THE DIAGRAM, I CAN MAKE IT AN OPTION. my schematic wasnt exact.. if you want it to be exact i could make it exact, it was just an example to post.. not my infamous friggin work, u wanna go head to head in photoshop.. lets go. hah lame excuses "but your drawing doesnt show it". MY WORDS DO THOUGH IDIOT.
------------------------------------------------
**4 feet? Is your car 2 feet wide?**
heres a little english lesson for you..
exaggeration:
1: To represent as greater than is actually the case;
un·der·state·ment:
1. A disclosure or statement that is less than complete.
Restraint or lack of emphasis in expression, as for rhetorical effect.
now mix them together! yay
------------------------------------------------
**My numbers aren't "jacked". Either you bought a cheap, dodgy relay not numbered to international standards, or you just simply got it wrong. Let's be perfectly clear on that. **
ohh my whats this..
cat #275-226
.. and on the back, DIFFERENT NUMBERS than whats on your diagram *GASP* it couldnt!.. it is! Radioshack is so dodgy when it comes to electronics.
at first i was informing people that they may have the wrong numbers, so check.. then you got holier than thou and i started to say more about it.
-----------------------------------------------
**Do either of your drawings show it? No. Since it's the main reason for doing this mod, perhaps you should've shown it. Otherwise what you posted was useless. The power wire to the pump isn't an "option" as you imply, its the whole resaon for doing this.**
from step 1 you said "that is pointless".. not even reading wtf i said. thats a ******* move, when the whole time ive been saying if you wanna run the wire after the resistor/relay SPLICE INTO THE BLUE. and yes it is an option CAUSE I MADE THE DIAGRAM, I CAN MAKE IT AN OPTION. my schematic wasnt exact.. if you want it to be exact i could make it exact, it was just an example to post.. not my infamous friggin work, u wanna go head to head in photoshop.. lets go. hah lame excuses "but your drawing doesnt show it". MY WORDS DO THOUGH IDIOT.
------------------------------------------------
**4 feet? Is your car 2 feet wide?**
heres a little english lesson for you..
exaggeration:
1: To represent as greater than is actually the case;
un·der·state·ment:
1. A disclosure or statement that is less than complete.
Restraint or lack of emphasis in expression, as for rhetorical effect.
now mix them together! yay
------------------------------------------------
**My numbers aren't "jacked". Either you bought a cheap, dodgy relay not numbered to international standards, or you just simply got it wrong. Let's be perfectly clear on that. **
ohh my whats this..
cat #275-226
.. and on the back, DIFFERENT NUMBERS than whats on your diagram *GASP* it couldnt!.. it is! Radioshack is so dodgy when it comes to electronics.
#44
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Most of that ranting and flaming isn't worth bothering with, but I'll respond to this...
The numbers on my drawing are as per the ISO (International Standards Organisation) system. I've bought probably a hundred of these things over the years under countless brandnames, and they were all numbered exactly the same. If your relay's numbers were different, then I'll stand by my statement that "you bought a cheap, dodgy relay not numbered to international standards ". The reason for those standards is so people don't make the mistake you did.
I still find it hard to believe your relay had the same four numbers (30, 85, 86, 87), just arranged differently. That just sounds fishy. How about a photo of the back of that card.
Originally posted by imloggedin
ohh my whats this..
cat #275-226
.. and on the back, DIFFERENT NUMBERS than whats on your diagram *GASP* it couldnt!.. it is! Radioshack is so dodgy when it comes to electronics.
ohh my whats this..
cat #275-226
.. and on the back, DIFFERENT NUMBERS than whats on your diagram *GASP* it couldnt!.. it is! Radioshack is so dodgy when it comes to electronics.
I still find it hard to believe your relay had the same four numbers (30, 85, 86, 87), just arranged differently. That just sounds fishy. How about a photo of the back of that card.
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as you can see my digital camera cant take good close up pictures.. its all blurry and you cant read text that close no matter what settings its on heh. heres the numbers. 86-on/off, 87-12v in, 85-ground, 30 12v out. this is flipped of your schematic. after examining that, my thought was that it may still work even though its flipped (i dont know if the circuitry is directional or whatever) but apparently it didnt, because when i had it hooked up the way in your schematic, it was a constant 12v.. i flipped it and had 9v.
#46
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Originally posted by imloggedin
86-on/off, 87-12v in, 85-ground, 30 12v out. this is flipped of your schematic.
86-on/off, 87-12v in, 85-ground, 30 12v out. this is flipped of your schematic.
If you look at my schematic, you'll see the way the pins are drawn will match the bottom of your relay (incuding the numbers). They're arranged like that so you can always tell which pins are for what even without the numbers. I guarantee the picture of the relay on my schematic will match your relay. I did this to minimise the chance of mistakes!
after examining that, my thought was that it may still work even though its flipped (i dont know if the circuitry is directional or whatever) but apparently it didnt, because when i had it hooked up the way in your schematic, it was a constant 12v.. i flipped it and had 9v.
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i already did admit i made a mistake.. but it was exactly reversed (i guaranteee) and then i was getting a constant 12v to the pump.. explain that.
thats funny though, i already admited i had it on wrong, and you still havent admitted that my schematic is at the least "good".. and worthy of some respect.. alls youve did is crap on it. thats why this whole time we've been argueing.
i try to help, and then you crap on it.. without understanding it at first. the only thing you can say against it now is "your adding X more feet of 12 gauge power wire". can you honestly say that is gonna drop voltage? that little of feet? - so, the ease of my way is another option for people, instead of crapping on it.. why dont you just leave it alone.
thats funny though, i already admited i had it on wrong, and you still havent admitted that my schematic is at the least "good".. and worthy of some respect.. alls youve did is crap on it. thats why this whole time we've been argueing.
i try to help, and then you crap on it.. without understanding it at first. the only thing you can say against it now is "your adding X more feet of 12 gauge power wire". can you honestly say that is gonna drop voltage? that little of feet? - so, the ease of my way is another option for people, instead of crapping on it.. why dont you just leave it alone.
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Originally posted by Rpeck
I just did 'that' rewire today ... It worked just fine for me. Double check everything ... you got something wrong.
here is a pic;
I just did 'that' rewire today ... It worked just fine for me. Double check everything ... you got something wrong.
here is a pic;
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Originally posted by 88ROTARY
man? clean that up!
man? clean that up!
no respect, no respect
I doesn't do any good to take a picture of it all put back together you can't see anything
-Robert
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Originally posted by imloggedin
i already did admit i made a mistake.
i already did admit i made a mistake.
...and you still havent admitted that my schematic is at the least "good".. and worthy of some respect..