2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Pulsing idle, at wits end, tried many fixes.

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Old Sep 26, 2004 | 08:31 PM
  #1  
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Pulsing idle, at wits end, tried many fixes.

Ok.
My 87 Turbo II with basic things done has a pulsing idle that has gotten progressivly worse. I am also experiancing a loss of power and high rpm hesitiations. I can only build 5 pounds of boost according to my aftermarket guage.

Only thigns done- no cat- no air pump- no ACV- 2.5" TID and 3"cone filter. Replaced o2 sensor, replaced TPS with tested good one, replaced gaskets, replaced all vacume hoses. Cleaned all TB parts. I even replaced my Oriface pill.

I have adjusted, re adjusted, replaced, and adjusted my TPS.

Im sitting at 1.001ohm right now, with a 1-4.5 swoop. No dead spots.
My CAS is timed pretty dead on.

Im at a loss what to do now.
I know my bac dosent work. Carb cleaner trick or propane trick show no va leaks.

Is my fast idle cam screwed, is my ecu cold start screwed (where it pulses to warm up)-

What can I try, or do? Should I tear my carpet up and put my MM on the ECU???

Last edited by The Spyder; Sep 26, 2004 at 08:33 PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2004 | 08:58 PM
  #2  
WAYNE88N/A's Avatar
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From: Coldspring TX
Yeah, do it, lol...

First thing to read from the ECU will be the 4 ground pins, to ground (who'da thunk it), especially the rotor housing guys (2R, 3A, 3G). Should have damn near 0 ohms reading resistance, or damn near 0 volts, if reading with key on or at idle...

Next things I would check from the ECU are the "variable" inputs, AFM, boost sensor, TPS (I know, but have you read it out from the ECU?), and maybe water thermo...

Then I would make sure that the air bypass solenoid is doing what it's supposed to be (by checking the air bypass relay's input at 1C), and the BAC is doing it's thing (8-12v at idle, the closer to 12, the better).

I'm assuming you've definetly ruled out vac leaks

Unless the fast idle cam has been tampered with, or is WAY out of whack, that shouldn't be causing your problems...

You could also remove at least one connector from the radiator temp switch (lower left corner), if you think the cold start system is screwing with you...
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Old Sep 26, 2004 | 10:41 PM
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From: Directly above the center of the earth (York, PA)
Dude......... do a compression test on it....... if you don't have any leaks.. and its getting worse... you'd better rule out a failing apex seal.
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Old Sep 26, 2004 | 10:50 PM
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From: Oregon
90-90-90
90-90-90

And I checked it twice.
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Old Sep 27, 2004 | 01:06 AM
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are you still running a stock fuel pump?
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Old Sep 27, 2004 | 01:07 AM
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i'd about bet that your fuel pump is about to go out.
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Old Sep 27, 2004 | 04:02 PM
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From: Oregon
Yes I am, but with 70k??? Why would it pulse at idle, go away for the 2-6k rpms, and then hesitate at the high end?

Im upgrading to a walbro, might as well swap it in now.......

Im pulling the carpet as soon as I feel better, damn cold.
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