the main pully set on the front of the motor.... wich way does it need to go on in reference to the timing marks on the pully itself and the demple thats on the front hub???.... i just put a motor in a rx7 and it wont fire up, i assumed the timing would be ok, since the motor was running when it was in another car (3 years ago), but im getting fuel and spark and ive got 100 psi of compr. in front rotor and 50 psi in the rear (not the greatest i know, but it should still run right?)

 

The series four pulley with the timing marks only fits one way. The four bolt pattern is offset for one bolt, so it'll only go on one way................Unless you gouge out the holes for it to fit any 'ole way. So take it off and rotate it around the hub and notice the FOUR bolts will only go in when the pattern is right.

I don't pay attention to any dimple because of what I just wrote above.

 

ok, yeah i noticed that it would only fit one way.... ok so thats good. but still, the motor will not start. im getting fuel, and spark. i put my compression tester in both leading plug holes and on the front rotor i got 100 psi, on the rear i only got 50 psi... is that good? i remember my 86 rx7 had about 125-127 psi. i just dont understand it. i let my fsm go whith my rx7 when i sold it last year.... is there any tests i can do to rule out say... the afm or tps?, even so it should still fire off and then die even with a bad afm or tps right? what about something to do with the nuetral safety switch?

 

you know that when you do a compression check on a rotary the needle should jump continuosly right? If it stops jumping after a certain number of jumps, then either your face seal or your apex seal is bad. And you test through either your T or L plugs but make sure that you leave the other in. Not saying you didn't know that, but I'm just trying to help. If you already knew that then your compression should be fine other than the fact that it needs to be above 90. anything under is bad. Is it actually firing when it turns over? The tps sholdn't eefect it at all. You can drive them without it. It should crank at least with no AFM, but I may be wrong. Hmm, If it's turning over, then it's not the clutch sensor. I don't know what else.

 

yeah the needle jumped around. but yeah the rear rotor only had 50 psi... but it should still run. its firing when i turn the car over becuase i took both leading plugs out (one at a time) and let each one touch the engine and watched both of them spark. the plugs when i pull them out have gas on them so i know its getting fuel.... its weird. i never touched the timing on the engine at all while putting it in, and it came out of a running car (3 years ago)