I tried putting my car in gear, but the crank pulley still moves freely. How do you get the pulley system to lock up so you can take off the pulleys?

 

Thats wierd, I would think that it in gear it shouldn't move at all. Try and keep on turning it until it stops, maybe it just has a little play.

fyi, the way you asked that was confusing as hell, it took me like 3 minutes to finally get what you were asking..

 

Really? That's strange. How would you ask it?

 

If it still wont work try using a chain wrench. If above reply does not work.

 

You SHOULDN'T have to remove that bolt. Even if you absolutely *HAVE* to (wtf for, i don't know, the pulleys SHOULD bolt onto the hub, not replace the entire hub), you MUST have the clutch pedal pressed in or you risk screwing up your engine. The clutch pedal must be held to the floor the ENTIRE time that bolt is loose.

 

IF you need to lock the engine from turning put it in gear and put the ebrake on firmly. You need good brakes for this to work.

 

Alright yeah I guess I don't have to take that off, haha. I'll see if I can remove the pulleys without having to lock up the engine.

 

So how do you guys take off your pulleys?

 

First off, why?

Secondly, to get the crank pulley plates off (there are 3) you take off the 4 10mm bolts holding them to the main pulley boss that is held onto the e-shaft by the big 19mm bolt that is near-impossible to remove by hand. You never remove the boss because it holds the bearing stack under the front cover, and can lead to engine damage if not done properly.

Removing the pulley plates has no effect on the internals.

 

Alt pully= impact gun.
Water pump pully= good grip with my right hand and a 10mm wrench in my left hand.
Main pully= four 10mm bolts.

 

*********So how do you guys take off your pulleys?****************************

By turning in a counter clockwise direction, the four small bolts that hold the pulleys to the hub. By the way, the bolt pattern for those four small bolts, is staggered. So mark where pulleys are in relationship to the hub.

 

I need to take off all of the pulleys (water pump, alt, crank) except for the air conditioning and the AC idler pulley because they're being replaced by a 5-rib belt for the serpentine belt system (supercharger kit). I can't seem to remove any of the bolts because all of the pulleys move freely. If I could get them to stay still I could get the bolts off. I'm guessing I'll leave that 19mm bolt on.

 

It appears you haven't paid much attention to what was said. Removing that 19mm bolt is a BAD IDEA. You can screw up your bearings inside the front cover by doing so without proper precautions taken. To replace the pulley, this should NOT have to be removed. Remove the 4 10mm bolts that are AROUND that 19mm bolt instead, and this will allow the pulleys to be removed, while the main 'hub' stays in place.

 

Yeah I know, that bolt is staying right where it is. But still, when I try to unbolt the four 10mm bolts aroung it, the pulley moves around. I was just wondering what I could do to make it stay still, because the pulley has to stay on my new timing mark before I remove it. Don't worry, I didn't touch that bolt.

 

It's always going to move a little bit due to the nature that the gears always have some slack. The only other way to lock it (with no play) is to remove the transmission inspection plate on the back of the engine block (it's on the top near the firewall area) and try to jam something in there to hold the flywheel in place.

 

Hmmmm...now that's odd. How can I line up the crank pulley to the timing mark indicated and then simply remove it? The pulleys all are spinning freely, which is strange.

 

im in the proces of doing the same thing, i stripping the motor down while its in my car, i just got to the point of removing my water pump and had the same troubles of the clearence. To get the 4 bolts of the e-shaft pullly, just use some pbblaster to lossen them if there freed, get a breaker bar and hammer, and hit that sucker as hard as you can, it should shock it enough to break them loose.

My problem is i got them all loose but they still wont come off, how the hell do you get them off of there?

 

The new pulley *should* have a timing mark on it, I'd be pretty damn upset if it didn't. If it doesn't, you can just line it up with the stock one, and mark it yourself when it's off the car. It's not a big deal.

 

So even if the timing pulley moves around (a lot) when I'm taking it off, as long as I have the timing marks transferred over to the new one I can just put the new one on? I still have to make sure that the new one goes on in the same way the old one did, so that the old timing marks and the new timing marks line up, right?

 

You seem to be missing some vital information. IT is an offset bolt pattern...timing pullies can only go on in one direction, so there is no chance of misaligning the timing mark to the crank.

 

Make sure that you know what can happen if you take the front pulley off. Do a search on front pulley removal. I posted a link to some write-up on the subject.

 

Yeah I am missing some things, half because I'm dumb and half because I've never had to really deal with this stuff. Thanks for that info, though, very good to know.

I'll be sure to look that up, thanks.

 

I searched the word "pulley" under your name in the search and I got only two threads, this and one other.

Let me get set straight - I have to remove the water pump pulley, the alternator pulley and apparently I also have to remove the crank pulley. Now I can't get the bolts off because whenever I apply any sort of force to any of the bolts, the pulleys move around (duh). So do I need some special tools or do I need someone really strong to hold on to the pulleys as I remove them?

 

The 10mm bolts? When I was taking those off I just held the pulley by hand, put on the socket/ratchet, and applied quick, forceful impacts with my hand until it broke it loose, then it came right off.

 

is the keyway in the main pulley? i forgot that once...