first time pulling a motor and it took me six hours to pull it/ rent a cherry picker/ and strip it clean ^_^ i thought it was gonna be a lot harder than this it was acutally kinda simple.... only one problem i forgot to label the vaccum lines if anyone in the so cal area wants to help me on monday they can.... i need to set the timing... replace a couple of broken MOP lines then im good to go!!!!! ill take some pics of the stripped stuff tonite!! wish me luck on the install...

oh ya the motor thats going in
GSLSE rotors lightened
3mm seals
large street port
s4 block

oh well i hope to get it running soon!!!!

 

hmmmm i was gonna use GSLSE rotors on my 87 but someone told me that its not good for a steetcar. I would like to see how your car runs. Keep us posted.

 

i would love to come and give you a hand but you live too far from me.

 

All 1st Gen 13Bs had 3mm seals.

Have you ever completely stripped a piston engine? I stripped a TII a few weeks ago and I had a friend with me who never done a rotary, but did a piston engine. He was amazed at the simplicity of the engine and the minimal amount of parts.

 

why do you want to go with 1st gen rotors???

 

i've always wanted to do a high compression turbo buildup .... i wanted to be different plus i wanted to see if i would yeild some more power... dunno if i will but we will see rite? plus i think i did good for my first time i mainly did everything myself i hope i didnt loose any parts ... ^_^

 

i believe that the 1st gen rotors are not as wide?? maybe thats the earlyer ones

 

ive heard of some drag cars use them but not for street.
I guess the reason why he is using the SE rotors are because they come a factory 3mm seals.

 

All the 13B rotors since '74 are the same width. The compression varies slightly from 74-85.

 

You're thinking 12A rotors, which are narrower.

 

I know what you mean. A few years ago I rebuilt my Integra's 16 valve, 4 cylinder engine. I am currently rebuilding my FC's 13B NA engine, and it is soooo simple compared to the Acura engine. There are like 1/3 the parts involved, a LOT less machining, and the best part is that there are no valves, timing sprockets, or a timing belt

 

<~~ hates the vaccum trap

 

Hey, importboi22
If this is your first time removing a rotary engine, where did you get instructions on what to remove and how to remove them? Just curious cuz im going to removing my engine soon in my TII and wanted to know the best place to get detailed intructions on how to do it so i dont F*** anything up

 

My TII's engine has been in a state of "removal" for the past 7 months. This isn't due to mechanical ineptitude, but rather disenchantment and lack of necessary funds.

I now have money and plenty of love to spread. The engine is being pulled out tomorrow.

 

don't forget to make sure you have the correct weights to balance the new motor with gslse rotors

 

i pulled the motor on a visual basias what needs to be removed to pull the motor was removed.... kinda juss logical once you get around to it... if you really need help tho pick up a haynes manual from kragen or something it helped me out on a few jiffy's

 

Sean Cathcart's Write Up Here:
http://www.rotaryinnovation.com/tech_list[1].htm

FSM with visual digrams:
http://www.fc3s.org/
Click on How Tos > Manuals > FSM

 

damnit i gotta change front covers forgot all about that... wish me luck i got some RTV sealer today...

 

6 hours. That's pretty good for a first time to do the complete removal, stripping of accessories, and tear down of engine.

I remember the first time I removed a TII engine it took me about 4hrs from when I turned the key off to when the engine was sitting on the bench (with accessories on it) and about 30 minutes to strip it down to the block. I hadn't done any rotary work before that time. Way faster now.

I've heard of rotary shops who have enough experience they pull FC3S engines out in about 20-40 minutes (depending on NA or TII), remove all accessories in about 15-30 minutes, and can tear apart a complete core in about 20 minutes. Pretty impressive for 1 guy with all the right tools. Imagine removing engine, removing accessories, tearing it apart all in 1.5 hours.

The vacuum mess is just retarded engineering. I hate it!
Haynes manuals are pretty good (not perfect) and can tell you pretty much all you need to know step by step for like $15. Then again, the forum is just as good

 

First time I did it was about a year ago. Took me probly 2 days to completely remove it and strip everything. But then again I was only working at night for about 4 hours each night. I had to work and go to school during the day.

I was rather impressed with myself considering the only thing I had ever done to a car prior to that was put gas in it and wash it

 

I hate you all. I cant get all the connectors for the wiring undone

 

Disconnect the main connector from the ECU and pull it through the firewall rather than trying to disconnect them all.

 

Thats what I am doing heh. I got the 2 off the ecu, and the other yellow plug up near the scuff plate, but there is 1 more I cannot get undone (my hands are too big to get up there).

 

I had that same problem, and my hands are small

Believe it or not, those 2 plugs by the scuff plate are held to the chassis by one of those little plastic clips. If you pull really hard on it, it will come off and the plugs will hang freely. Then you can get at em alot easier.

 

When i pulled my engine a few months ago, using no air tools, a winch on a crossbeam to lift the engine, i had the engine outta the car, stripped and all appart in 1hr 50mins, its only the 3rd time i have pulled a motor from a FC. It makes it a helluva lot easier to be able to remove the upper intake manifold and unplug the connectors etc and leave the little Haltech loom in the car

its OH SO SIMPLE having aftermarket efi