capn

Hey all

i have just adjusted my timing and tried starting my engine over. well it didnt really turn over but i used some starting fluid and got some real decent popping and alot of smoke from the exhaust and all of its holes. so if im getting popping with starting fluid could my gas not be potent enough? or do i need to fine adjust the A/F ratio or idle speed? because it really sounds like it wants to start and run but all its getting is Pop POP.......POP...............and maybe a few pops here and therebut still not a consistant combustion to make it run on its own power. so what are more things i can do?

WAYNE88N/A

OK, I forget all of the other threads you've started (you're like Hondahater, you start a new one every day, lol), so let's start at the beginning...

What is your compression? Give me numbers...

Ignition system- what have you verified?

Fuel system- same thing...

So many things can make an engine not want to start, we need to narrow it down, and stay on topic, on the same thread, lol...

capn

OK compresssion wise i have NO numbers because i do not have a tester but it sounds to me that one face of my rear rotor is not getting adequate compression because it goes like puff...puff...........puff...puff but the front one sounds fine like puff...puff...puff.... and i checked my fuel pump and it does flow fuel out in large quantities and i just had my injectors cleaned and i have new fuel lines.

and as far as the ignition goes i check resistance on both coils both are within spec and i adjusted my timing so the leading spark goes off on the yellow mark. new plugs both the right type, i assume my wires are OK. ave made sure that spark is getting to all 4 plugs and ummmmm i belive thats it so far....

i'll try to keep it on topic

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

You made sure you dint swap the fuel lines on the rats nest? If you reverse them, it wont run......

capn

well from the fuel tank the right hand line is the return line (right?) and the line on the left hand side is the send line (correct?) and up at the enginethe left side is the send and the right side is the return am i correct on all of this? and i have a new filter and cruzin performance injectors new fuel lines so i think the fuel system is all good unless there is something that i forgot?

WAYNE88N/A

I believe that's right at the pump- besides, if you're getting fuel out of the hose that runs from the main filter, it has to be right back there...

So the only questionable thing we have at this point is the compression...If that's the case, it would be a bitch, but she should still start, if you keep her throttled...

This was a rebuild? Sorry, my memory is fading in my old age

deltr0n`

the line on the right standing from the rear of the car, is the one that pumps, not the left... also check your fuel pressure, mine did the same thing, and it turns out on an S5 fuel pump it has a plastic sleve, an o-ring, and a cap to snap on over that.... mine was stuck up in the part that the pump sits in, so it was getting no fuel pressure.

capn

well no its not a rebuild still same stocker, but mine is an s4 so i dont think it would have the little plastic problem with the fuel pump, and i also took apart my fuel pump so could the problem be a fuel pump just not pumping enough?

capn

come on guys, can you give me a heads up? like i thought that the A/F and idle speed screws could be out of adjustment, is there a way to make it stock again like twist all the way in the 1/4 of a turn out or something? and could it be my fuel lines? because i replaced my lines with fuel injection hose as a quick fix until i can get my car on a lift to put the real steel lines in. and if my fuel tank isnt completely sealed off could that have something to do with the pressure of the tank? or line pressure?

i really think that if i get her started and arev her up a couple times and get that heat up it could blow alot of the carbon off so that second rotor may seal better, whaddya think guys?

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

if the compression is bad don't even bother, it's toast!

capn

well im mean its been sitting for 2 years, so wont afew happy revs knock stuff loose?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Rotary bible, book one, chapter one, verse one: COMPRESSION CHECK.

Let it be written, let it be done...

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...lder/comp.html

A gauge costs you 25 bucks at autozone. IF you can't afford that, you dont need to be working on the car. However, in a case like what yours sounds like, the gauge is hard to interpret. You've already conceded that you think one or 2 faces of one rotor aren't up to par. I'd advise you to take a bright light and a mirror and examine the seals through teh lower plugholes, one by one, to see what's going on. Any significant scratches or missing pieces spell a junk motor. IT's easier done through the exhaust ports, but plugholes can alert you to major damage, even though you can only see about 20% of each seal. More often than not with blown seals, you WILL be able to see damage in that 20% area. IT's possible but uncommon to crack a seal on the edge where it can't be seen.

HeffBoost

It sounds to me like your timing is way out.

capn

i just restabbed and timed it

and what is the most optimistic outlook on my engine? like what can i do to maybe resurect that seal without a rebuild?

WAYNE88N/A

Some guys swear by the ATF treatment, but I've never done it. Kevin's right, man, you need to figure out what's wrong with that rotor first thing. If you have chunks of seals running around in there, you don't want to start her anyway. Personally I'd go through the exhaust ports by removing the manifold for a visual check, because I've never been able to see squat through the leading plug holes...

And if you do have a stuck seal, you'll be able to physically access it through the exhaust port, to see if you can "unstick" it

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

amsoil power foam seems to be the best treatment.. just spray it in and fill it up, then crank it over a few times.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

IF a seal is stuck, lots of rotation and lubrication *may* free it. IF it is cracked or broke, no amount of rigging will help.


THis is what happens most of the time when seals break...

capn

that rotor and housing dont look good at all, yeah i have only checked the front rotor with a mirror and looks good, but i havent had enough time to look at the other ones through the exhaust ports, we were too busy push starting it (or at least trying)

oh could i need more gas? like i know i put a fresh gallon in for trying to start it over and such, but is there a minimum level or gallons of fuel there needs to be for correct fuel pressure? i hope this is my problem

and i'll try desticking these seals after work tommorow and school,