JohnWohl

after the UIM removal and banjo bolt install (and reinstallation of everything) I am having some problems.

my car never has done the quick warmup thing as long as i've had it, right away when i start it up it usually revs to about 2k then settles down to about 1250rpm until it warms up and then after warm it would idle at about 500 rpm, slightly lumpy but not bad.

now after installing the banjo bolt I don't have any more leaking fuel but the darned thing won't idle properly.

it will sit at 1250 for 15 or so seconds and then drop down to 500 rpm where it proceeds to bounce the needle, try to stall, and shake the car, this is when its warm btw.

if i drive for a block and then hit a light it will idle a bit better but still worse than pre-banjo installation.

im pretty sure i got all the vacuum lines back in the right places and there were no loose ones or anything so im not sure what could be wrong.

any help is appreciated and if anyone wants to be a smart *** and say 'for the love of god SEARCH', go right ahead, but i don't really know what to search for.

thanks in advance

hybridracer

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Did you use new gasket when putting the UIM back on? I guess just go back and double check that you tightened all the bolts on the UIM and check for vacuum hoses. Did you use knew vacuum lines or did you reuse your old stock ones? If you reused the old stock lines thats probably your problem.

JohnWohl

hrm, i didn't use a new gasket for the UIM, the old one looked good, but that could be the problem.

does anyone have a diagram of sorts thats shows all teh vacuum lines applicable to the uim? my haynes manual doesn't seem to have anything usefull, or maybe im dumb.

would it matter if i connected one of the vacuum lines to the wrong place? i mean, not the wrong place completley but there are a few right next to each other and if i screwed up which one goes on top of the other or to the right of the other one would it matter?

also, i couldn't remember which way the air intake temp sensor (under the bac) went. i put it so the 'tab' on the connector faces up and to the left, can anyone verifiy this??

sorry.. im very poor right now (tech industry victim) and if i could fix this at all without spending money (which I don't have) if would rule. above all i just duwanna hurt my motor.

before owning this car i was the type to bring my car to the dealer at the first sign of a problem, but now, being poor, i need to work on my own car, and i'm not exactly 'mechanically inclined'.

but im learning!

hybridracer

Well if you didnt rip your old gasket at all it could still be good. But I probably would have used some time of gasket sealer on it. You should definately make sure you hooked them all up right Check out the factory service manual at iluvmyrx7.com, it has vacuum line diagrams. Did you reuse all the stock vacuum lines or did you get new ones?

Icemark

Yeah, if you re-used the old gasket and torqued the bolts down to 40 lb/in you will need to use gasket sealent to prevent a vac leak.

The vac lines on the upper intake feed directly into the throttle body. Yes hooking them up incorrectly will result in vac feed problems as well (too much or too little vac on lift throttle). Next time if you are removing lines like that take a picture and/or mark the lines... 1 paint dot for top, 2 paint dots for middle, no paint dots for bottom, etc.

hybridracer

Masking tape works pretty well too Im not patient enough to do little dots I tried it one time when i was doing some porting on manifolds and i found it was alot easier just to use masking tape and corresponding numbers, but whatever you think will be easiest for you, im just throwing out different ideas.

slow87turbo

or you could do like i did. remove every thing not neddisary to the vital opperation of the car. whitch on a TII isnt alot. but i did away with the rats nest. you only "really" need one vac line and that to your fuel presure regulator. but you would have to remove things like your acv,egr, and i think thats it. but other than that to find the vac leak an easy way. take a can of starting fluid and with the car running CAREFULLY spray the starting fluid around where you htink the leak is if the idle jumps you know the area where the leak is. just please watch out for the exsaust. good luck.

ej