2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Old 11-29-01, 11:14 PM
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Unhappy Problems!

Hey guys- I have now owned the T2 for about a month, and it hasn't run all that bad, but today, oh today it has like stranded me three times. (all around town...I'm not stupid!) Anyways, I wanted to go get my girl, but the drives 2 hours away so here is my predicument. THe car runs fine most of the time, but every once in a while, the idle likes to COMPLETELY disappear (as in take foot of gas, she WILL die) (Valve needs replaced) Well, as if that's not bad enough, you can guess this makes driving difficult at stops...having to e-brake and give gas then let her go. Well, now, she wants to stall, but this is only most noticable when or after it rains. I checked the connection of my plug wires to my coils, seem to be alright. My car now has a more aggressive shake to it, albeit an APex seal decided to make a move LMFAO. Oh well, I REALLY hate to see the engine is self-destructing, but I need some input. I think I need to break it down, but funds are limited. Lemme know what you guys'd do. Would you try the ATF or water trick? Would that make it worse? Thanks for all your input
Old 11-29-01, 11:48 PM
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What makes you think it's an apex seal besides the car cutting off at low idle? I'm assuming you had a compression test?

Otherwise could just be a TPS adjustment.
Old 11-30-01, 01:35 AM
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If you really have no idea of what youre doing, please dont tear into a turbo 2 uinless you have a back up ride for a couple of weeks, cause thats how long it'll take you to make it run. Dont take it the wrong way, Im not doggin on you, I dont know your mechanical abilities. You dont talk like you have any experience, and turbos are more challenging that the average car, or even NA rotary. Hell, I worked on a subaru flat 4 last week and it was a cakewalk compared to even a NA rotary.

IF you just need it idles up, there are a few ways. The simplest and quickest is to find the throttle cable that comes from teh firewall driver side and goes to the engine bahind the intake. There are 2 12mm nuts holding it in position. IF you loosen one, and tighten the other, it pulls the throttle open slightly. Youll see what i mean. Idle it up to about 900 adn leave it, so it will hold its idle for you.

The other ways require removal of the intercooler. IF you do so(not hard, 4 bolts plus 2 clamps and some hoses) there is a small flathead screw with an 8mm locknut around it, this raises the idle also. IT is on the throttle body near the linkages. You can also adjust the TPS while youre under here. Unplug it(the black button looking deal on the front) and use a digital multimeter on the black and green wires. You want to set the DMM to ohms, 20k range, then set it to read 1.0kohms by turning the flathead screw on the TPS linnkage.

IF youre having problems idling you may have a vacuum leak. Look for loose pipes and hoses, especially the one from the airflowmeter(under the filter box) to the turbo. IT cracks badly at the end on the turbo. Some sealer will fix this temporarily. Check all those black hoses that come off of the turbo, to the IC, in the engine.
Old 11-30-01, 01:36 AM
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No compression test as of yet

No, I haven't gotten a chance to compression test it, but it has a strong vibration from like 750 to 1500? I don't really remember. THanks for your replies
Old 11-30-01, 01:49 AM
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I had the same problem with my 88 Turbo II. I tired adjusting the throttle cable, but that didn't work. It would idle high, but as soon as I step on the gas it would just die. I suggest replace the motor with a J-Spec. Thats what I'm doing right now. I picked my up for only $ 400.00 It would probably take me this whole weekend though to install it. Good Luck
Old 11-30-01, 07:19 AM
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eh, does it run fine after 2k? If so your motor is more than likely not blown. Do you have a check engine light come on? What year is it BTW? You can pull error codes.
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