My driver's side window has a gap of about 1/4" between it and the top. Which means when it rains, the interior gets flooded. I just got the car out of storage tonight, and plan on trying to fix this problem tomorrow.

Those who are wise in the ways of the 'vert, any tricks I should know about for adjusting the run of the window?

 

you seem to have the idea- adjust the window. Hopefully it just came loose and fell to the bottom of its setting.

 

My vert has a similar problem. I'm gonna take my door apart soon to try and adjust the window. Unfortunately I have no time to do it the rest of this week.

 

It seems like the top of the window is pushed out and away from the top. I don't think it's too low, I think the track is misaligned.

Oh well, I guess I'll just screw with it tomorrow.

 

That's the exact as mine. Look at the passenger side and compare. My passenger side is nicely sealed and sits in the seal, my driver side sits on the seal.

 

There is a lock nut and screw in the center that pulls the window back and forth. Put a wrench on the lock nut and turn the screw. Tighten the lock nut afterward.

 

Thank you. I am going to go tackle it now.

 

Now that was a while back, so my memory is a bit foggy, that could have been for the adjustment of the retractor. I wish I would have taken a pic when I was messing with it.

 

its funny how you never hear of a certain problem, then 2 people come with the same one.

I guess as these cars get older we will explore a new range of problems, having owned alot of FCs including 3 verts I thought I had seen my share of em'

 

I found three screws like that, I'm going to try tightening up all 3. I also found the top wheel that keeps the window in the track was unbolted, so right now, rather than having a 1/4" opening, it's against the seal. I'm going to try the wrench/screwdriver and see how that works.

 

I can't get it all to adjust right, so I'm taking it to my local bodyshop. He'll probably charge me $20 to get it lined up, and that will be that.

I think I am going to change the seals on the targa top, though. They are a bit old, and the driver's side seal is probably a bit out of shape from not having the window hit it properly.

 

Any more info?

Was there actually any adjusters in there?

 

maybe try loosening the adjusters, physically putting the window where you need it, and tightening everything?

otherwise like you said a body shop or windshield place wont charge alot for it, bring them a box of donuts when you go and have the door panel already off and they might do it for free.

 

Yep, there were three adjusters: One for the track, two for the mechanism. I played with it for about an hour, finally said **** it.

 

Tightening them pushes the top of the window outward. You MUST be careful with the retractor pulley adjustment as it can throw the cable out of alignment and bind the motor up... don't ask me how I know and who now has a broken retractor.

 

$100T2 -- Does the window appear to be leaning out at the top, or is it not running all the way up?
Reason I ask: The stop bracket (tab) inside the door is also adjustible, if I remember correctly.

Agreed. Think of the window-to-door seal as a fulcrum point. Pushing outward below the fulcrum causes the window above to move inward. Get it?

Also, it can be a combo of warn guide wheels and sealing gaskets. If the window is loose and floppy it could be time to start replacing some of these items.

On a side note.... Are these the white doors you bought from me a few years ago?

 

Nope, those doors went away with the project car. The window is sticking out away from the seal. It goes up and down slowly because the motor is getting tired, but it does go all the way up.

 

This may sound really silly and obvious, but is your door out of adjustment? As in, your hinges and latch strike?
If the door isn't hung spot-on, it could be causing a slight gap at the top seal. Close the door and sight down the body line and door top. Make sure they both are in line with the rest of the body.
Next, run your hand back and forth over the door-to-fender gap. Then do the same to the door-to-quarter panel gap. If you feal any difference from top to bottom (i.e.- one area sticking out past the adjacent panel) you probably should reposition you hinges.
Then worry about adjusting the window after.

Also, if you haven't done it already, try hitting the window and regulator guides with some white grease. I can't tell you how many times I've corrected slow/stuck windows with a little lube.

 

I decided to pull my door panel back off and see if I could fix my driver side window.

Well, I noticed the cable for the regulator is all frayed and almost frayed in half. When the window goes up and down, it grinds on something.

So just how in the hell do you get the regulator OUT of the door?!???

 

The seals actually make a big difference on a vert. You would surprised at the thickness difference between new and old seals. Vert seals just seem to compress more after a while, than coupe ones.