problem with the battery/alternator
10-11-06, 11:35 PM
#1
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problem with the battery/alternator
when my car first died out, i replaced the battery, then a few weeks later the same problem happened again, my car died out, so this time i changed the altnerator. So the same problem still persists, the car died out even with a new battery about a month old and a new alternator about a week old. Anyone have any suggestions of what to do next?
10-12-06, 02:42 AM
#2
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buy the battery and alternator at the same time! See this is the problem with mine when I first got my 7. The coils in the alternator were fried, and these coils regulated the power so it wouldn't fry a battery cell, and since these coils were fried, it fried that battery also.........so bad battery and bad alternator is what I think.....Same exact problem I had, and I replaced it with a new bat and alt and I was good! So try that. Yeah its a lil spendy but hey it worked! Shucks has stock amperage alts for 79.99 i believe with core! sooo go check it out on the net and print that price thing out of the site and take it in and get that price.....
10-12-06, 06:43 AM
#4
Don't just throw parts at your car. Here''s how to test your alternator.
FSM tests – correct way
DMM tests – quick/easy (Sureshot)
Engine running, headlights & heater fan on high:
Alternator post to alternator frame = 13.5-14 volts steady (verifies the alternator output)
Alternator post to battery (+) = 0 volts (verifies the primary + wire)
Alternator frame to battery (-) = 0 volts (verifies the primary ground)
Turn off the motor, but leave the lights on.
Battery (+) to battery (-) = ~12.5 volts and holds steady. (verifies battery)
Also, test to see if there's a draw on the battery while your car is off.
FSM tests – correct way
DMM tests – quick/easy (Sureshot)
Engine running, headlights & heater fan on high:
Alternator post to alternator frame = 13.5-14 volts steady (verifies the alternator output)
Alternator post to battery (+) = 0 volts (verifies the primary + wire)
Alternator frame to battery (-) = 0 volts (verifies the primary ground)
Turn off the motor, but leave the lights on.
Battery (+) to battery (-) = ~12.5 volts and holds steady. (verifies battery)
Also, test to see if there's a draw on the battery while your car is off.
10-12-06, 07:01 AM
#5
Lives on the Forum
Here's the problem...
When you deep-cycle most automotive battery, this tends to KILL them.
Your typical automotive battery is not designed to run all the way flat.
When alternators die, they will sometimes kill the battery at the same time.
It sounds like your bad alternator deep-cycled the new battery, and now the new battery won't hold a charge.
Don't you have some kinda warranty on the new battery?
Replace the battery.
-Ted
When you deep-cycle most automotive battery, this tends to KILL them.
Your typical automotive battery is not designed to run all the way flat.
When alternators die, they will sometimes kill the battery at the same time.
It sounds like your bad alternator deep-cycled the new battery, and now the new battery won't hold a charge.
Don't you have some kinda warranty on the new battery?
Replace the battery.
-Ted
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