I tried to adjust my tps today. I did it like I allways did, hook up a digital voltmeter on the green striped wire and the black wire and turned the screw. Usually íts just 0.05 volts of spec (i.e. 0.95 - 1.05) but now it was almost 1.5 volt!. I could get it adjusted to 1v by turning the screw to it inmost position. Now my car runs like crap!! Did I do something wrong. I had a link to a good howto somewhere on the k2rd site, but this site seems to be gone??

Please help..

Marco.

 

The "volt meter" way of adjusting the TPS is kinda screwy. You should trydoing the "2 lightbulb" test. I believe there are walkthroughs in the resources section of www.rx7club.com, if not, email me at;

supertegrs@yahoo.com

and I'll walk ya through.

 

Saabguy,

I used to do it that way, but I found the volt-method feel more accurate.
With the voltmeter you are measuring the signal to the ECU. With the testlights you are measuring the ECU's interpretation.

But you are right, this is the time to use the lightbulbs, I'm gonna use the testlights tomorrow, just to doublecheck the settings. If this also fails I'm just gonna readjust to 1.5 volts.

Marco.

 

If you have a mutlimeter, use the ohms setting, or continuity check if you have it. You adjust it the same way you would using a voltmeter, but you turn the screw until you have continuity between one set and infinite resistance on the other. Make sure the engine is at operating temp when you perform this check.

It can be a time-consuming experience, but usually works a lot better than voltmeters or lights, as you can tell instantly when you make/break contact, instead of having the light or voltmeter flicker as you turn too far. LED's work well, too, and don't pull a lot of current.

It may be that your tps is shot. Try the continuity tester first, though.

Ren

 

I had the same problem with my car when my tps went. With a bad tps if you try to adjust with the voltmeter you'll never get it right.

I'm going to guess that your TPS is bad since you can't get it down to 1v, since it's not that bad (mine wouldn't go below 2, and would go all the way to 12 on WOT) you should be able to set it with the test lights, and it will run pretty well. use LEDs, this page has an excelent write up of how to make a set that can be used to either set the TPS or check error codes

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...ctor%20Chapter


If you replaced your TPS you would probably some improvement, but it's probably not worth the cost of the new TPS (160 or so)

 

I have a strong feeling that some of the problems on repeatability is that the car being tested is not fully HOT. Its getting to be late fall and winter. The car has to be fully warmed up for the thermowax to allow the fast idle cam to fall off the roller. That said here are some tps sites: http://www.johnr.com/tps.html http://home.rmci.net/panther/tps.htm and of course there is the factory manual at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/Technical_I...ice_manual.htm That said, I set mine using a volt meter, and set it at one volt at idle and don't have problems. The only catch with this method is that your not checking out the integrity of the tps pot from end to end like the method used by some. Also if someone would like to buy my tps checking lite that I got from Mazdatrix some years ago, make a offer. Pretty little red and green lites. Think about what I say about the HOT engine. Make sure the fast idle cam is indeed off the roll pin, because you'll drive yourself and family nuts trying to set it with the cam on the roll pin. I frankly don't care what method a person uses. I'm lazy and use the one volt method because there is nothing faulty with my tps. Oh. Thats just for 86 thru 88. Never did a 89 and up.