According to the FSM they should both close together at around 140degF. True, but if there's no risk to the engine (and I'm doubting there is), I'd rather replace the thermal pellet than disable it like many do.

 

how can you tell if it fails?

 

Very low oil pressure.

 

According to most builders, failure of the thermal pellet means rapid destruction of the oil control rings. Personally, I'd just shim it or replace with a solid pellet and not worry about it. No previous rotary has had the pellet.

 

Probably the easiest way to prime the lubrication system is to pull the 2 trailing plugs,egi fuse and cas connector then crank the motor with full open throttle until you see oil pressure on your guage.As for oil jets I don't see why they would not spray some oil,or at least ooze it since oil is passing through the eccentric shaft at all times -hot or cold.(Yes I know it mostly spills out at the front end until the wax pellet heats up and closes the spill passage)

 

They would ooze it out, but that is completely worthless. The rear of the rotors need a major oil spraying to keep cool. This is why oil jet mods are important when building an engine...

 

That must be an interesting modification.On all my Mazda rotary engines the oil jets spray into the interior of the rotors to remove heat from inside of the combustion surface.They spray to the rear of the front rotor and the front of the rear rotor.