What appears to be "surface rust specks" on the sunroof is probably the first evidence of rust-through from inside the panel; a very common FC problem. It would be best to get a clean replacement panel to fix that properly. The rust where the welded "fins" meet the rocker panels in the floor area may be more serious than it looks as well. Check for softness from below, and remove the carpeting and look at the footwells from above. My old S5 rusted from the inside out in that area. Could be from a leaky sunroof or even just melted snow tracked inside the car that collected in the lowest spots of the floor. I believe you can still buy new floor sheet metal from Mazda, but the labor to fix this will be very expensive unless you're doing it yourself. On the other hand, if this really is just surface rust, that can be fixed easily. Agreed with 87 t-66 that it sounds more like a $2000-3000 car now.

 

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/1328616211.html

Super low mile N/A.. Will probably never get the asking price....

 

what the hell gauge cluster is that?

 

yeah wtf? Claims 34k miles and puts in a pic with a digital cluster and 13k miles? Maybe he clicked the wrong file.

 

How much are we talking about for surface rust on a underbody? Has anyone hired a shop and used POR15 on their RX7 to restore their underbody?

BTW here is the link to the car that I was checking out:

http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...AdIdZ148852464

 

wow... uhhh ur initial post was very misleading lol.... ya i would say hed be lucky to get 4 for it, and that would only be for a good motor and drivetrain... i hate frame and underbody rust....

 

If it is genuinely just surface rust under there, you could easily treat it yourself with some POR-15. My current car had a spot of surface rust on the subframe under the brake master cylinder where the previous owner spilled brake fluid and let it eat the paint. I treated it myself pretty easily. The hardest part is waiting while the various stages (metal cleaner, metal prep, primer and topcoat) dry.

However, don't make the mistake of assuming that it is surface rust unless you've lifted the carpets! My old S5 looked mint on top but had Swiss cheese for floors... When I was looking for a replacement FC, I looked at many cars within a couple hours of my house, and about half had serious rust and soft metal in this same location.

See Post #12 in this old thread for my photos:

https://www.rx7club.com/ne-rx-7-forum-30/body-shop-rust-repair-dc-md-va-area-601224/

 

Those tires are hella too small...

All original huh?? My definition and his are very different.

 

I am willing to be just about everyone's car here has a little rust in the spots you say that car has

 

The wheels are too small. He bought the wrong profile type tires lol.

daviddeep, it sounds like you've been through body issues in the past! that car could of fooled me.

I think the seller is talking about knocking off a few hundred when I think we should be talking about thousands. I don't think I'll be picking up this car anytime soon.

 

Figure out what you're willing to pay for the car and make the guy an offer, then walk away. If after a few months nobody offers him anything close to what he's asking, he may call you back.

 

I dont know what the conversion rate is for US dollars, but in US dollars that car is not worth $7000 or anywhere near that

 

he's only asking 6.3K which is fair. I've sold a couple 89 T2s with well over 100K for 6 grand.

 

thats fine to ask $6300 USD, but to say you will not budge from that price and have a car with rust and what not- well now you are more inline asking $4500 and sticking to your price.

 

Alright, I have to call BS when I see it:

Gauging interest to see if I can find the right buyer, otherwise I will keep the car. (Wants to sell the car, thinks that he can get more for it if he does not sound desperate)

1990 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II (check)
Left Hand Drive, Canadian Car (check)
75,000kms ALL ORIGINAL. One of the lowest mileage RX-7s in GTA. (whatever that means)
Accident free, original body, original paint, clean history. (sure it is)
Fully Stock except for racing clutch and machined flywheel. (we have already seen that he cannot read tire sizes when shopping and he has an aftermarket sound system in there. How is that fully stock? What crappy Auto Zone clutch did he pop in there with "racing" printed on the box?)
Absolutely rust free, never winter driven. (We know this not true. Underbody rust is from winter driving)
Always fed with 94 Sunoco Octane with receipts to show. (Does he own stock with Sunoco? Who cares?)
Oil changed more frequently than required, with non-synthetic Castrol GTX 10w30. k&n oil filter used. Car does not burn oil. (Sure, lets argue about the ash content of Castrol, who cares, and all rotaries burn oil)

Brand New (under 500kms) Falken Azenis RT615 (sure, too bad he could not afford the Daytons that they should be on)

Car is in 100% running condition, put in gas and go. (What, for that price I would think you would get a full tank)

JVC deck installed, with sony xplode sound speakers. Fully wired for sound system, just needs amp + sub. (Hmmm, I always wanted to buy half of a sound system. How is this stock again?)

Car speaks for itself, truly a beauty and very well kept. (Your car talks? Is that also stock?)

ABSOLUTELY NO TEST PILOTS, SHE IS MY BABY. (Not like we are asking to sleep with your girlfriend here, if I am giving you $7k, I think I have the right to ask for a test drive? Do I need to get my pilot's license first?)

Price is FIRM. All offers that do not meet my asking price of $7000 will be ignored. (Go fudge yourself)
Reason for selling: Getting a S2000, thinking about letting this go as I might not have time to drive it much. Not in a rush to sell. If it does not sell I will keep it as a weekend car. (Translation: I may have blown my engine because I have no idea what I am doing or talking about. I cannot afford an entire sound system or tires that fit my rims, hell I do not even consider driving in the snow to be winter driving, so there is no way in heck that I can get this thing fixed. PS: I hope you are dumb enough to buy a car without me letting you test "pilot" it first).

My advice, run!

 

These are all opinions. Car is only worth how much YOU are willing to spend on it.

/thread

 

What does "ABSOLUTELY NO TEST PILOTS, SHE IS MY BABY" mean in American English? Does that mean no test drives? Does Canada have a big drug problem?

"Fully Stock except for racing clutch and machined flywheel" - I don't recall the 90 RX-7 with stock retarded-looking tires and a cheap JVC stereo.

Lol at "TESTING WATERS". This guy is such a tool that he should own a Porsche, not an RX-7.

I think he is under the typical misconception that high octane is better for the car.

Castrol GTX is good oil, and has shown excellent results in rotary engines over the last two decades. However, changing it more frequently than required is another typical action of those who don't understand cars very well.

I agree.

 

Classic comments! Hilarious! I wouldn't take a night with his girl AND the car for 7k hard earned dollars! Test pilot indeed...

 

IM testing the waters, I want $35000 for my car, no test pilots.
I always feed it high octane fuel and I have Penzoil in the car, I also have anti-freeze in the motor.

 

Do you take Paypal?

 

Paying with pilots is so awkward anyway..."Do you have change for a Yeager?"

 

J(Canadian)DM tight yo, LHD!

 

please, the car is my baby and I wash it too, will come with half a tank of fuel and a M&M stuck to the carpet that you can eat when you are stranded on the side of the road

 

lol

 

Rob, inspired by this thread I have started a "make fun of the craigslist/ebay ad" thread.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...85#post9446085

Hope to see you there!
Shawn