Solle

This is my first post, but i've been searching these forums for many months to help me with working on my RX-7. So i'de just like to say this is an amazing site, and please don't flame me for asking these questions because I have searched.

Car: 1986 rx7 GXL n/a & (86' parts car with no compression in rear rotors*otherwise fine*bought 2 days ago)
Mods: 2.5" single straight pipe with res, no cats, and apexi dunk muffler from stock manifold. Street ported/rebuilt apx. 6 years ago, k&n drop in filter, emmissions removed, and i'm pretty sure ports are pinned open. AC removed. Fuel pump cut off switch. Limo tint all around.

The seven isn't the prettiest to look at right now, "sprayed black", to cover up the drift damage/rust done by my friend the previous owner. It's also somewhat of a legend at our car meets, everyone hates to love it, because of its durability, reliability, popping exhaust notes, and beastlyness. Even though its one of the slowest, However, i've been working alot lately to make the car look, and run even better. I've also owned this car on, and off, the past 5 years. It is my daily driver, and its rarely given me any grief and runs great at 226000kms. I dont know much about RX7's, but have been learning alot through haynes, fsm, and this forum. Ever since i lost my 92 JDM rx7 3 months ago, because someone rear ended me while i was stopped, and sandwiched me into the car infront of me. I've been driving my old RX7 again, even though my GF said she would break up with me if i traded my grand am that ran fine and was perfectly reliable, for the 86 rx7. But the opportunity came up, and the person i previously sold it too wasn't driving it at all, so I just had to get it back.

The Chain of Problems i've run into in the past 2 months:

1) Replaced the alternator belt with a new one. Old one had very few teeth, and was cracked and looked like it was ready to snap for years but never did. Teeth were on outside of belt? new torque belt has teeth on the inside and ditto for one on my parts car. Innitially car ran great on new belt, (felt like a new car for a few days). than began to experience some voltage drop at proper tension.
- also put in 10amp fuse for interior lights, (didn't have 7.5) interior lights worked. There was no fuse in the spot before. Took fuse out again now, because of problems.

2) CD faceplate was stolen <-- they couldnt get the deck out.

3) Boosted car many, probably 6 times when it was cold, and batt was dying from pop up lights getting stuck on bent bumper on the way down.

4) Block heater rarely worked, replaced cord, now works.

5) Clutch switch always pressed in, always been this way, bypassed? even when clutch is depressed, switch stays in. Car has always started with out clutch in.

6) Replaced Battery twice, both are still good. Replaced termanals, cleaned up some grounds in engine bay, couldn't find new ecu ground - must have been relocated during rebuild? Havent regound ecu yet.

7) Replaced cracked tail lights with better ones, and new bulbs. Also replaced front left signal light because it was cracked, and sitting inside bumper, flashing where it couldn't be seen. replaced signal light/bulb holder. Now it only lights up when driving, it would signal too for a few mins really fast then eventually not signal anymore, but running signal light still works. And rear signal light on that side is fine.

8) Replaced comletely straight single pipe to magnaflow muffler with resonator and a much bigger apexi dunk muffler. Because it sounded too much like a bumble bee, and was popping too much. It sounds much deeper now.

9) Pretty sure the car is running really rich, oil/filter changed to 5w30, a week or less after this it seemed the oil pressure would drop/raise so much slower. Before it was really fast. Also now at 750rpm idle, oil pressure is at like 1.5kg raises to about 4kg at 3000rpm, and rarely goes above that. Used to easily go to 6 at highway speeds.

10) Replaced 2 rear tires with winter tires, front tires are still very bad, rear support bar, or whatever its called, is bent/laying on rear axel, has been for years. Tie rod ends I did 2 years back. 2 months ago car has been swaying about 1-2 feet left and right around 70km/hour, then seems fine after, and before that speed range. (Has never done this before) seems to be getting worse.

11) Transmission has always been pretty poor, hard to downshift into 2nd. Stays in gears though. Always had some not/clunking or grinding, but not smooth shifts into 2nd and 3rd, unless above 3000rpms.

12) drivers side door only locks from inside, because i took the lock out to get a key cut once, and havent put it together properly. Passenger side door doesn't lock either. If you do lock it, and shut the door, you can only unlock it by taking the door panel off and playing around with the door part.

13) took out factory alarm computer, 2 weeks ago

14) Buzzer started going off all the sudden. Checked under the hood, did some reasearch, and found that the sensor on top the rad had been cut/grounded ages ago. Pretty sure I found the grounded wire, cleaned ground, reconnected to chassis, buzzer hasn't gone on since.

15) Seems coolant resivoir level hasn't been moving lately, (suppost to be good), but i dont know if its moving at all, or working. I wanted to bleed the air out of the coolant but my nipple thing has been mashed beyond repair, so i dont know how else to check the fluid/air. When rad caps removed no bubbles, and coolant is at the top though.

16) 12 months ago car died randomly, lost power, temps were fine. after a few tries of engine <- not cranking. car started. back then i figured weird.. never did anything, nothing ever happened after that.

17) car died at 2 am one morning over a year ago, I had a small sub/amp installed myself 3 weeks prior with no problems. I took the amp out, and threw it on the road out of frusteration. It really was embarassing having the seven die on the busiest street in the city on a sat night with my dad, (had to wake him up to come help) Boosted car, drove home, etc. was fine ever since.

18) Car wouldn't start christmas eve, 3 weeks ago, so we finally got it going (push started) My gf's dad rigged up a wire from the started for me that would supposibly unjar the starter if it got stuck again, by connecting it for half a second on the battery terminal. The wire didn't work, I realized this when I got stranded on New years after watching the fire works at my grand ma's, and then working on the car till 4am on cosmetic things with the gf, in her heated garage. I also had to work at 5am that morning, so we were outside in the -25 degree weather trying to push start it to no avail, because my gf is only 85lbs, and it was cold and she cant drive standard, so we couldn't get it going fast enough with just the 2 of us. Later on 3 days later, the starter was taken off, and i tested it, had to replace the very worn bushings and the sylenoid. After thinking it could have been result of something else, assosiated with the factory alarm/doorlocks not working , ignition, etc. basically anything but the starter because i didn't have the jacks there to get under the car. and the starter never showed signs of going. But i guess it was all the cranking in the cold weather without the block heater working that killed it. But yea.. I never knew when a starter goes, you turn the key, and it clicks once, and doesn't do anything else. I tried hitting it with a hammer after, and realized you have to hit it while the ignition key is turned in the on position for it to unjar! No one really specified that in the threads in the forum. So yea, for a week it was starting really fast, like faster than ever, the starter sounded like it was on speed. and i didn't even have to use the kill switch. Now the starter is slower, still good, but takes 3 seconds. and I have to still use the kill switch every time!!!!?

19) Car was idling for about 20 mins while i was in the store, and i came back and the lights were dim and the voltage was at just above 8 volts on the stock gauge, revved the car up, and it was fine. Also on new years on the way to my grandma's the car majically died while turning the corner to her place a block away. Voltage immediately dropped, steering wheel locked tight, and car coasted, at no rpm's. When i stopped i popped the hood, wiggled alt/batt etc. wires making sure they were in place, and got in and the car started up fine. also i noticed that if i turned on the heat/signal light/rear defrost/no stereo in at this point/headlights/brake light, the voltage would drop to about 10. *Also, why i didn't think it was the starter when the car wouldn't start at my grandmas.

20)Yesterday i put on the alternator from my parts car and the belt that was on it too. When i took off the power steering belt i realized there was no teeth on that belt. I compared it to the belt on my parts car and it had all its teeth. Could a locked pulley where you take off the belt for the power steering have caused the belt to be stripped slick? I lubed up the pulley and made sure all of them spun (i am not sure if it was locked before or what caused the belt stripping). So i replaced both belts and the alternator. Do the teeth on the alternator belt face the pulley or away from it? because the previous belt faced away from it but both torque belts we put on now face it.

21) The voltage is still only twelve or lower at idle with the new alternator. None of my fuses are blown, i tried a new battery on the alternator and there is no change. If i turn off the lights heater or cd player the voltage raises to about 12.9 at idle but never reads above 13.5 while im driving. I bought a 700 rms mono amp and sub but im afraid to install it becuase of my low voltage.

22) My oil pressure seems to still be very low. at idle, its about 1.5, and never reaches above 4 now, it used to go to 6 less than half a year ago, Also 2 days ago, the car almost stalled at idle for the first time ever. Their is enough oil in the engine, and is very clean. but has been crappy since the 5w30 and is getting worse it seems. At 1000rpms the oil pressure gauge hits the first bar. The car has always leaked a little bit of oil, but not much. Maybe when i had the filter replaced a few weeks ago, they dripped oil on the regulator valve? whats this look like? to i have to take off the filter to get at it? maybe i dripped on it when i was filling, or cleaning up wires under the hood with sand paper, and my electrical degreaser spray? Can i switch to 10w30 thicker oil to help raise the pressure in this cold weather? maybe i do have a leak. I dont see really anything though.also last night, a foot or so towards the rear of the oil pan their is a 2-3 inch rubber circle above the exhuaust seems to be leaking a little, about a 3 inch puddle after 3 hours of sitting from the 30 min drive. I havent searched to see what this is yet and left my manuals at my grandmas garage, but im assuming its for the transmission. Maybe the heat from the exhaust it causing this to heat up, maybe they removed the exhuast sheild when i changed the muffler / resonator again 2 weeks ago, or possibly the first time when i straight piped it to the magnaflow a year ago.

23) a week ago i bought some amazing leather seats out of a 1st gen at the junk yard for 20 bucks. Their the dark maroon/red, and dont have a scratch or rip on them. The body of the 1st gen was pretty crappy but when i opened the door up. and hood up. Holy ****, i dont know what this car is doing here. Everything is maraculous. So i took a few things like the seats because i've never seen anything like them. The car even had the 1982 book the give you when you buy the car, sitting on the seat. They will fit, and i have the rails that look exactly the same. however when i go to pull the front left bolt out of the passenger seat in my 86rx7 it turns left a few turns than gets stuck, same to the right. all the other bolts come out. What could this be attatched too. maybe something to do with my problems thats loose? or just a nut? i'll look when i get a chance i suppose.

24) it seems also since last night theirs a noise comming from the top left of the engine, i dont have my haynes so cant look it up yet. but it sounds like a ticking... hopefully the bomb wont go off for a few years, and i also noticed a whirling noise, like a vac leak, or somethings thats never been there before, and i can also hear that something in the back is making a small spraying noise, probably like the fuel pump or something. The whirling' whistling noise isn't that loud, Its cold out, theirs always been white smoke from the exhaust in the cold. So im not very worried about that. But the car seems to be a little more sluggish than usual. Whats causing this? Its not retardedly slow. but i'm sure somethings not right. lol well obviously alots not right, after all the things i listed...


Anyways, thats about it.. It just seems like the more work I put into the car, the more trouble it gives me. I dont know whats going on. But, I at least have the parts car now, so i can try things. The part car is completely stock, missing passengar window, side frame is a little bent, and no compression in the rear rotor. (apparently) but its 45 mins away, and i can only take car loads of parts at one time. What should i take that will help me right away? besides the pannels and stuff. Oh, and sht. one more thing the parts car puzzles me, because its an 86 has no power windows, but does have a sunroof, has 4 bolts like the gen prior? aluminum hood, and yea. its just weird. Also has a transmission with a rb clutch, and lightened flywheel.

If you have any of these answers or can tell me if any of these problems lately can be linked together i'll really appreciate it. I know its alot to read, but im desperate, my girlfriends of 2.5 years is ready to break up with me because i traded my perfectly fine 94 grand am to get the seven back, and i promised her it would run fine, and that i'de get winter tires, and fix the heater vent, which i did. But now its doing all this, and she almost strangled me when it broke down on christmas eve, then again on new years.

Please help me, I know all of you know what its like to own a rx7. No one really understands why i'de want to keep this car. Even when i had my JDM FD, i still missed my 86 but i've had it too long to let go, and its been very reliable for the 5 or so years i've known it, until now. I have an mr2 arriving from vancouver, to edmonton from japan, in a week but i wont be driving that till summer.

Thanks in advance,
(for anyone's advice. and who took the time to read this)

Joey.

Icemark

well it sounds like you have made a few mistakes already.

You have too many things to list, so I will just hit a couple that stand out as major issues, and are not covered by the FAQ for FC sticky thread found at the top of this section:
Never ever put a higher value fuse than the stock one in. The fuses are set to protect the wiring and putting a higher value can cause the wiring to melt down.
most 86's did not have a clutch switch... are you sure you even have one?
Indicates a bad E-shaft thermo pellet
You should be driving a car that sways back and forth even 6 inches, well alone 1 to 2 feet. The suspension should be fixed or replaced.
Common FC issue. Try using Redline MT-90 gear oil in the tranny.
Well that is a major screw up. The wire needs to be hooked up to the coolant level sensor, not too ground. If you suddenly pop a hose, you will blow the motor long before you see the coolant gauge (which needs water to report temp) peak up to overheating temps.
bad alternator- and probably the reason for other dieing issues.
Bad alternator... what makes you think that a used POS alt off of another car would be good? Voltage should be at 14.4 volts all the time, and if it is dropping under 13.5 volts it is not charging anymore and if it is dropping under 12.6 volts, then you are running on battery power.

NoDOHC

I is a pity that you live in Albert, Rx7s like to be garaged for the winter.
Mine will start down to 0F (-18C), but lower than that, no way. I am sure that the block heater helps.

Quick advise, get a winter beater or drive your girlfriend's car when you go places. Don't talk too much about the '7 and maybe it will pass.

Seriously, the winter beater is optimal.

I paid $350 for mine.

Anyway, I got distracted.

It sounds to me like you do have a bad electrical issue that requires a lot of diagnosis.

I think Icemark is right about the alternator (not that his opinion doesn't carry way more weight than mine). However, I would like to see if you have any excessive current draws on the system.

I would chock the random quitting up to a loose connection, probably battery cable.

The best advise I can give you is to find and fix the ECU grounds, these should be connected on the intake manifold somewhere. Carefully clean the MAP sensor connector and pay special attention to the ground from from the battery to the firewall and engine block. Also clean both battery terminals. After that I would recommend you replacing the fuel filter (you never know it could be losing fuel).

You could also get a 10 or 20A multimeter and measure the current draw from the battery with the ignition switch in off. Then turn it on and measure the current draw. It should be less than 5 Amps (with everything switched off except the ignition.)

Other than that, I have no general suggestions, now for the itemized list.

<takes deep breath>

1) Alternator belt: I think that the stock belts had the teeth on the inside. Like Icemark said, you shouldn't replace fuses with higher values.

2) Can't help with this one, be glad they didn't smash the entire logicon assembly like they did in mine.

3) By boosted, I assume that you mean you connected cables to another vehicles battery. (This is jumped in US terminology, in US teminology, boosted means that you spooled your turbocharger up and built boost.) Solution - Straighten the bumper.

4) Great job, one down, 23 to go. (This could be causing your low oil pressure, it is warmer on startup.)

5) My car has a clutch switch also, and it doesn't work either (convenient when the car is out of gas).

6) Good job, you did the most prudent thing you could have in cleaning the grounds. Replacing parts is a last resort, If the car will crank over and start in the morning, the electrical problem is probably not the battery.

7) You need to watch the left turn signals and verify that both front and rear are lighting, my guess is that one of them needs to be wiggled and possibly the contacts cleaned, the signal should bliknk if both bulbs (front and rear) are connected.

8) Sounds like you got this one under control.

9) To fix rich mixture turn up the heat outside Don't worry too much about the oil pressure, your sensor is probably going. My gauge says 0 psi when I have 40 (0 bar when you have 3). It could also be the whole winter thing.

10) You should reattach the rear sway bar, although it has little to do with the swaying going down the road. You might want to get a measuring tape and do a redneck allignment (measure the distance between the front and back of the tires.) I would also jack the car up and wiggle each wheel to be sure that you don't have something loose. (I once had the front ball joint bolts come loose at the control arm side, the car handled sketchily at best.) Wiggle top to bottom and side to side and in and out.

11) My transmission is ruined too (300,000 kms) I just got one from a friend, they are available all over ebay for $50-$100. You can change it in a long evening.

12) So what do you do, crawl in through the hatch? If I had a spare set of locks and a key, I would send them to you today. It takes like 20 minutes to remove the door panel, 10 to install the lock and 20 minutes to reinstall the door panel, I think you should fix this (although it is a smaller concern than getting to work.)

13) As long as you were careful, this should be ok.

14) Icemark is right again, this should be connected. Try connecting it to the radiator and make sure that the radiator is well grounded, this should fix the nuisance buzzing that makes people disconnect theirs (although mine was disconnected when I got the car, I connected it back up and it only went off that one time I had a heater hose blow).

15) You can almost always smell a coolant leak for days before you loose an appreciable amount of coolant. So you use your built in coolant leak detector, your nose.

16) By not cranking I take you to mean that the starter was not operating, this is usually a sign of either a corroded battery post or a bad ignition switch. This is why I recommended that you check all your large gauge grounds.

17) There appears to be a frayed wire touching something, maybe some careful inspection of the entire wiring harness is in order. Even if the car quits, you should not need a jump (or boost as you call it) to get it going again. Be glad for your dad, some of us live away from home and have no one to come for us if that happens (picture me pushing my pickup towards the nearest gas station here).

18) Your Girlfriend's dad was trying to help, but this was assuming that the wiring was the problem, and not the starter itself. The kill switch??? I guess by this you mean a switch going to the fuel pump to prevent flooding on startup. I have seen them before, I don't drive in the winter and have excellent compression, so I don't use one. Do you have to use this in the summer (above 0°C?) If you do, your engine is weak and will need to be rebuilt soon.

19) This is a clear symptom of a failing alternator or voltage regulator (in the alternator)

20) It appears that you knew this because your next step was to replace the alternator (good job). Unfortunately, age kills alternators faster than use so your other alternator is probably not in any better shape. Once again, not all belts have teeth.

21) The only problem that I see here is the amp. a 700 rms wall amp is a LARGE amp. This costs money. Maybe it is just me, but I would have used that money to buy a new or rebuilt alternator. You can use any alternator you like, but a stock one is easiest to wire up.

22) The regulator valve is near the oil pump under the front cover. You have to take the engine apart to get at it. I doubt that is the problem at all anyway, more likely the sender which is directly below the oil filter on the block. I always change my own oil, I don't trust oil change places. The Factory Service Manual (FSM) is on the internet in several places, I use this one for troubleshooting on my car, considerably better than the haynes (which I also have). The low voltage also causes low gauge readings, so this could be part of the problem on your oil pressure. The thermal pellet is in the front of the eccentric shaft and can be replaced by removing the bolt from the inside of the front pulley of the engine (read section 02 of the FSM page D-15).

23) The seat bolt is probably rusted underneath. There is really no access to it, but my guess is that there is a rust hole down there somewhere that allowed it to get salt against it and rust. If you can find this hole and shoot some penetrating oil in there, it may help the seat bolt. The bolt is turning until it hits the rusty spot, you may be able to turn it back and forth a lot and get it out.

24) This is possibly your air silencer (so called by mazda) which is the exhaust port for the air pump when it is not going to the exhaust. I hope that is all that it is. This could be the cause of your problems, a small vacuum solenoid may have failed, causing a current drain that won't quite blow the fuse. There are certainly worse things that it could be, such as a broken corner on an apex seal (which would also explain the loss of power).

The loss of power could also be the line to the auxilliary port actuators, it comes up from the exhaust (you may have removed it when doing your exhaust job).
The auxilliary ports are activated by exhaust back pressure, any changes to this and they don't open, causing loss of probably 20 Hp. I don't know exactly what you did to make them operate. I cobbled a spring up beside them so that my low backpressure will still open them, then I tweaked each spring until they opened at 3500 rpm at full load.

Your other car is weird, but is probably a luxury model. The factory options are listed in a sticky at the top of the page.

I hope that this helped you out a little, now I think I will condense your post for others.

Spark Notes for entire post:

Car occasionally dies and needs a jump
Battery Voltage is running 12.9 V with no load at idle.
Replaced alternator with another old one, problem still exists
Oil Pressure is low (1.5 bar)
Ticking/whirring noise from the top left of engine (I think this means passengers side, not sure here.)

hhn2002

holy sht batman!

ronbros3

also, replace the alternator with the 89-91 unit ,will up the low speed voltage.

Solle

Update.

Ok, thanks for all of your imput. Here's what i've done in the past few days, while taking your advice.

1) Flushed coolant, changed oil to 10w30, MT-90 gear oil in the tranny, new fuel filter
The combination of all these made a big difference in the overall preformance of the car, shifting is smoother, temps still the same (at half), oil pressure went up a little bit, and yea. The car just feels better.

2) Had my alternator rebuilt from the 60amps it tested at, to now 90 amps. The car feels alot different, acceleration is better, guage lights are brighter especially in warning light cluster, and starting is somewhat faster/easier. The power steering also feels like its alot more sensitive, and responsive. My windows go up faster, and alot of other little things.

Still having issues...

The car was idling today for about five mins, and then the rpms all of the sudden dropped from the 700 they sit at, down to stall. I watched the voltage, and it remained the same during this 2 second descent, and didn't really drop until the end. The car still doesn't turn over right away, it takes under 5 seconds of cranking with my fuel cut switch on and petal to the floor, or pumping. I get it 90% of the time though. Why would i still have this problem after a better than new" alternator output, new battery, and new starter?

My parts car arrived at my house today. I have 2 days to work on it, outside in the snow under the car port, with the help of one of my friends and the gf. Before my parents make me call the junk yard to pick up the car, (because of space issues they have), and having to park their car on the street. However, I am allowed to take out as many parts as i can and leave them down to the basement of our house. Can someone tell me some useful parts i could take out within that time frame, which often require replacement more than others, and I should definately take?

p.s. I was about to type alot more about my car, but I had to stop! I was looking through the ____ i printed out sitting inside my haynes manual, while my gf was steaking my hair 2 mins ago. and ****, I freaked out, and she f'd up my hair, but i think i've found it!!!

Hints from problems i've been having:
General Low voltage

(remembered years ago helpign my friend hook up a stereo, and ran a wire for the memory to the fuse box, and the wire went up in smoke as soon as i turned the key, and i was so careless back then! I used a pop can tab cut in half as the fuse and tied the wire into that . )
(when installing my stereo a week ago, i realized that:
antenna needs a - signal to go up!, definately didn't know this back in the day. Because i chopped my antenna off with a hack saw when it wouldn't go down. Figuring it was a lost cause...) (also thought short may have occured here from hooking up after market decks ant relay to this cable, causing a short, dmg'ing the alt, and wires! <--- seemed like a very probable solution to my concerns lately. Even though i realized this a couple weeks back when i looked up the wiring diagrams after someone stole my headunit cd faceplate. :@. than!. Also my 12v all the time, that leads to the factory deck doesn't work, so i had to run a wire straight to the battery, (fused).
(starter took a sht <-- probably from overcranking due to poor charging of battery) <-- made no noise at all when key is turned in ignition, just one click and everything else has power, car wont crank, push starting works, or hitting the alternator with a hammer while the key is in the on position.
(realized rad fan only turns about 2 inches when you try to spin it gently)<-- on my parts car it spins like half way around, is mine poo?) could this cause something related?
(alternator tested/replaced <--- in hopes to up poor voltage)
(car died while driving once, and at idle 2 times in past month) <--- associated with low voltage, due to starter crapping out and results of alternator tests. HOWEVER I SHOULD HAVE KNOWN NOT TO ASSUME ANYTHING. BECAUSE IT HAPPENED AGAIN THE DAY AFTER REPLACING AND REPAIRING EVERYTHING I LISTED. i think i know what it is, someone will have to clerify, and direct me towards the tests i can do at this point. as well as parts i should be taking out of my parts car, i have for 2 days to ravage, and strip naked (R), or at least (pg-13). lol, partial rotary nudity.

Idle drops when lights come on mainly, but idle drops with all other loads as well, especially power windows and rear defrost.
Replaced alternator x 2 alts now. one rebuilt to 90 amps.
Replaced starter x 3 rebuilt the one in my car, sylenoid and brushes, plus theirs one on the parts car, and another extra that came with it.
Replaced/tested different belts x 5 belts. 2 belts on my rx7 for power steering and alternator (car only have 2 belts, a/c + emmissions removed)
Cleaned the grounds of a bunch of wires, including neg. battery terminal to the frame, havent done ecu yet though.
Replaced battery x 3
One more huge symptom i forgot to list was: Beep.... Beep..... Beep.... <--- only has happened the odd time, probably once every 2 weeks over the past 2 months. I figured it was the intermittent beep that continues for like 60 seconds, if car idles for over 20 seconds above 2000rpms at start. Its winter here, quite cold... Minus twenty. I assumed even on the warmer days (-5) the cold start was still kicking in. which wasn't a huge deal, i'de just wait the 4 mins for the car's idle to drop down to drive. When the beeping does occur it stops after about 1 min, sometimes sooner, if i start driving cold. at low rpm's. it has stopped the times it went off.

It has to be the SSSSSSSSSSSPEED SENSOR SIGNAL!
a)broken wire
b)sensor
c)harness

Which of these is more likely, and how do i test them? Do you think it is this? Also, what should i take from my parts car within the next 2 days? I dont have a copy of fsm on me right now, so i'de appreciate any help someone can give me, can't access wankel links either. But i can tomorrow from work.


Thanks again,

- Joey