Whats the best oil to use to premix? Thanks

 

I would think any TCW-3 injector friendly multipurpose two stroke oil would work better than the stock factory injection. I use this stuff I get at Walmart in a gray container, I don't recall its name. I have tried a very small amount of Castor bean oil added with some marine two stroke I have in there, but I think it did not mix well and just gummed up in the bottom of the tank. Don't use Pennzoil Synthetic Marine oil, my car LOST power on that stuff. I always mix my oil in with 5 gallons of Gas and then fill on top of that. This method seems to work better than just filling the tank and dumping oil in ontop of the gas alone. Any other info out there?

 

Use Valvoline Multi Purpose 2 Stroke Oil. I've used it for 4 years now.
Anything that is TCW3 certified is good.

 

I use anything that is TCW3 certified. I just buy it from gas stations whenever I'm out.

I put the premix in before putting in Gas. That seems to work well and seems like what everyone is doing.

 

TCW-3 means they are up to par with the testing standards. Just about anything with that cert is good enough.

 

so how do i premix? mix the gas and oil in a tank? and how much oil should i mix in with gas. thanks

 

if you removed your MOP you use 1 ounce(oz) per gallon of fuel you pump. If your going to fill up use 16 ounces.

 

im a newbie to cars haha, MOP? and what if i leave it on, still premix?

 

You can leave your mop working but you won't have the advantage of clean burning.Some people that leave the mop use about 8 oz. per tank.If you decide to take the mop out in the future then 1 oz. per gallon.

 

I just use 12 oz. per tank. 1 oz. per gallon is more than needed IMO but it works

 

whats mop stand for and how do i remove it?

 

ok. what can i take off (oiling system wise) if i decide to go premix?

 

oil metering pump. You need to take it off and block it off with block-off plate.

 

so i would have to continue changin the oil and such? got a photo of a blockoff plate for the omp?

 

Yeah you continue changing the crankcase oil as usual, but now you can use longer lasting synthetic since you're no longer burning oil. If you have a S5 you'll need to leave the OMP connected and strapped down somewhere or the ECU will go into limp mode.

...And don't just try bolting the holes shut on the OMP, that's what i have now because i have no way of making a block off plate. The oil pressure builds up behind the bolts until it's too much then sprays all inside the engine bay then stops and builds up again. Fun...

Oh yeah, in my personal experience the Synthetic TCW-3 designed for fuel injected Jet Skis works the best. I'm probably just delusional, but i thought it performed better.

 

how many miles do you change the oil now? still need the oil cooler? (im assuming that the oil is still used for the turbo?)

 

I'm not sure about the oil cooler. I would assume it's still needed (especially for a turbo) considering the heat of the engines. As for changing the oil, i think you would do it the same, but you can always use the dip stick and change it when it's darker then you like. Since my car currently sprays a little bit of oil i have to add some continuously and clean the front of the engine so the belts don't start slipping.

...Someday i'm going to get that stupid block off plate...

 

Yes the oil cooler is needed all the time. you should never run your mazda rotary without an oil cooler. ALL OF YOU need to go to www.Mazdatrix.com and read all of their information and FAQs mixed in with their sales stuff. Removing the MOP has nothing to do with "crankcase" oiling, and you can use a good low ash synthetic with the MOP still active if you like. K2RD.com has a nice selection of block-off plates, they are cheap, get them. 1oz per gallon of fuel works out to be 128-1 mix, which in my book is not enough, I usually go for around 100-1 mix, I would also recomend dispersing the oil in some gasoline unless you are going to stand in the hatch and jump up and down for awhile on every fill up. Its a good idea to find out what people with two stroke motorcycles and karts do as this is kind of what you are doing. you are lubing a part of the engine that cannot get oil from the main e-shaft oil. You will use much less oil in the fuel than ANY two stroke piston engine....just a little note there. Has anyone ever made any significant power gains from any one brand or type of oil? What do mazda racers use? Anyone know what the factory GTO cars used and how much?

 

ok if the omp is taken off then are the oil injectors still getting oil? or are they pretty much useless?

 

they are absolutely useless then. get some 10x1.25 bolts (if i recall correctly) and block those puppies off. don't forget to plug/cap the vac lines that run to each injector. there's one leg for each on the spider under the intake manifold. oh and please cut/grind the bolts to proper length so you don't blow your engine .

 

Just leave on the metering oil pump and don't premix. There's no advantage in street driving as long as your metering oil pump is working.

Many newbies seems to want to switch to premix without understanding how the stock system works, what switching to premix means, it's effects on lubrication, etc. There are many people both for and against premix, but so far there is no solid proof that premixing is better then the stock system.

Save yourself a major pain in the butt and just use the stock system. Also, how exactly do you resell a car and tell the new owner "Oh, and you need to pour some two stroke oil in with every tank...".

 

you can reinstall the oil injection if you sell the car. the intake manifold is not really that complex. whats up with the chrome flaking off the sides of the rotor houseings? since the center right below the oil injector is very nice looking, I figure properly atomized oil in larger amounts helps this situation. I say everyone should strip their motor to the block.

 

Most of the mechanics on this site say that the engine is in better condition during a tear down when it has been run with premix.

I premix because the oil lines were leaking and i didn't feel like spending the extra cash getting them replaced and since i have an electric OMP that has a tendency to fail with no warning it seemed like a good idea.

 

I've torn down engines that were premixed and those that were not. No difference. The premix engines even still show the characteristic "clean" spot on the leading apexes of the rotors that everyone says is caused by the oil injectors.

Chrome flaking is just generally caused by wear. The end piece of the apex seal concentrates a good amount of force at it's tip, hence the scoring.

 

I think the premixing thing is really only helpful on some really good boosted engines. stock vs Stock, just leave the system as is. Unless ofcourse you expect the system to be faulty.