Pre-purchase inspection questions
03-03-15, 09:29 AM
#26
I actually meant major damage that would effect the chassis, not dings. You won't believe how many cars are out there with major accidents that weren't reported.
These cars are super old, plus it's a rotary, so I would almost expect to do a rebuild or major go through of almost everything. Also I would recommend trying to get a s5 1989 or newer. The styling is better, slightly higher compression will give you better response in low rpm and better power and higher redline in high rpm with better intake manifold. Good luck on the buy! Those are my 2 cents
These cars are super old, plus it's a rotary, so I would almost expect to do a rebuild or major go through of almost everything. Also I would recommend trying to get a s5 1989 or newer. The styling is better, slightly higher compression will give you better response in low rpm and better power and higher redline in high rpm with better intake manifold. Good luck on the buy! Those are my 2 cents
03-03-15, 09:45 AM
#28
Super old is super relative. I've only owned one car newer than me since college, and only for about six months. Several of my cars have been older than my parents.
I checked for damage. Nothing of that nature. Just some door dings on the DSR fender. I certainly anticipate a rebuild at some point, but I'd like to make sure I can get around as is at least until winter.
My goals for buying were not to find an RX7 or anything specific. I had a budget first, a use case second, and the third criteria was just that it be fun/interesting. I looked at everything from old American muscle cars, British roadsters, luxury cars (just car, really, and only because it had an interesting engine swap), and then finally settled on a peppy carver. I looked at a Porsche, Mercedes, BMW, Chevrolet, Dodge, Chrysler, VW, MG, Volvo, and several others I'm forgetting. That's part of why I'm having to ask the pre-purchase questions. Typically, if I were going after something specific, I would research the crap out of it ahead of time and know the vehicle inside and out before I began shopping. This time, I had to figure it out more or less on the fly. I tend to favor older stuff because I know the technology. This car has me at a pretty significant disadvantage because it has computers, fuel injection, and of course a unique drive train. I tend to learn pretty quick though.
I'm pretty stoked that this will round out my oddball engine collection. Starting tonight I will simultaneously own an air cooled car, a NA diesel, and a rotary. A trifecta of challenging and finicky engines!
I checked for damage. Nothing of that nature. Just some door dings on the DSR fender. I certainly anticipate a rebuild at some point, but I'd like to make sure I can get around as is at least until winter.
My goals for buying were not to find an RX7 or anything specific. I had a budget first, a use case second, and the third criteria was just that it be fun/interesting. I looked at everything from old American muscle cars, British roadsters, luxury cars (just car, really, and only because it had an interesting engine swap), and then finally settled on a peppy carver. I looked at a Porsche, Mercedes, BMW, Chevrolet, Dodge, Chrysler, VW, MG, Volvo, and several others I'm forgetting. That's part of why I'm having to ask the pre-purchase questions. Typically, if I were going after something specific, I would research the crap out of it ahead of time and know the vehicle inside and out before I began shopping. This time, I had to figure it out more or less on the fly. I tend to favor older stuff because I know the technology. This car has me at a pretty significant disadvantage because it has computers, fuel injection, and of course a unique drive train. I tend to learn pretty quick though.
I'm pretty stoked that this will round out my oddball engine collection. Starting tonight I will simultaneously own an air cooled car, a NA diesel, and a rotary. A trifecta of challenging and finicky engines!
03-03-15, 09:57 AM
#29
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Next, I'll have to track down an electrical gremlin or two... See if I can't get the diagnostic system to work, wiper switch, and I'll tear down, clean, and regrease the sunroof mechanism. My best friend is a research physicist at CU and a bit of an electronics guru. He gets giddy when I talk about the sorts of projects I'm likely facing with the computer stuff on this thing, so I'll bet that ends up being fun.
Any recommendations for various fluids? Is there some special oil that is the community's favorite, or is that a hot button issue?
for the transmission on a street car i like a 50/50 mix of gear oil and atf, its cheap, available everywhere and works just as well as a synthetic.
in the diff, i like a synthetic, i typically use redline, but up to you.
the engine takes normal coolant. key here is to change it more than once a decade.
brake and clutch fluid are just normal dot 3.
03-03-15, 10:07 AM
#30
Aurora. I talked to the guy with the one in Englewood, and it has a bit of a smell to it if you catch my drift... Two good tires, two bad. Only had it a month. Things like that. The deal should go down tonight. I know he's asking too much and I talked him down, but I probably still overpaid a little. Oh well. Car feels good and solid. Great power, best feeling tranny of all the cars I looked at. It's even a color I like.
Deal goes down tonight. We've agreed on the price and everything, it's just a matter of trading car and title for cash.
Deal goes down tonight. We've agreed on the price and everything, it's just a matter of trading car and title for cash.
03-03-15, 10:16 AM
#31
lol, it does get to be kind of a hot button issue. GM did a study of oils in a Mazda rotary in the 70's and they concluded that the engine doesn't care what you put in it (even atf is fine). Idemitsu later did another SAE paper on oils in the Lemans winning 787B, and again in a street car you can run pretty much anything.
for the transmission on a street car i like a 50/50 mix of gear oil and atf, its cheap, available everywhere and works just as well as a synthetic.
in the diff, i like a synthetic, i typically use redline, but up to you.
for the transmission on a street car i like a 50/50 mix of gear oil and atf, its cheap, available everywhere and works just as well as a synthetic.
in the diff, i like a synthetic, i typically use redline, but up to you.
I prefer DOT5. It's considerably more expensive, but it's nicer to paint, seals, and lines, doesn't have water issues, and preserves brake internals. The performance gains are a nice benefit as well, and you only have to do it once (lifetime fluid). I buy it by the gallon for about $75. Doesn't go bad, and a gallon will flush and swap about two cars.
03-03-15, 10:17 AM
#32
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here is another thought, the first section in the service manual is the pre delivery inspection, and it might be a good idea to just quickly do it. they have you measure a couple of odd things, and you can probably eyeball it (make sure when the spec is 5mm that the actual thing isn't 5")
03-03-15, 05:45 PM
#42
Ah. Yes, well, I'd be lying if I said I've never done that. My caution and reservation are hard earned traits. I've owned a lot of really cool, but also really finicky cars. I have made more than my fair share of expensive mistakes from rushing in without knowing what I was getting into.
03-03-15, 06:26 PM
#46
I'm trying hard to avoid that if at all possible. Assuming I get my truck back on the up and up by next winter, I may rebuild the engine as a PM catchall.
I think I've got my head around the long block. I'm trying to find a build/break down of the auxiliary stuff... Intake and exhaust manifolds, all this AWS and vacuum stuff, etc. Short of reading through hundreds of pages of manual information (I want to have this digested before I take delivery of the car), is anyone aware of any good resources?
I think I've got my head around the long block. I'm trying to find a build/break down of the auxiliary stuff... Intake and exhaust manifolds, all this AWS and vacuum stuff, etc. Short of reading through hundreds of pages of manual information (I want to have this digested before I take delivery of the car), is anyone aware of any good resources?
03-03-15, 06:54 PM
#47
I'm trying hard to avoid that if at all possible. Assuming I get my truck back on the up and up by next winter, I may rebuild the engine as a PM catchall.
I think I've got my head around the long block. I'm trying to find a build/break down of the auxiliary stuff... Intake and exhaust manifolds, all this AWS and vacuum stuff, etc. Short of reading through hundreds of pages of manual information (I want to have this digested before I take delivery of the car), is anyone aware of any good resources?
I think I've got my head around the long block. I'm trying to find a build/break down of the auxiliary stuff... Intake and exhaust manifolds, all this AWS and vacuum stuff, etc. Short of reading through hundreds of pages of manual information (I want to have this digested before I take delivery of the car), is anyone aware of any good resources?
Don't let the systems of the car worry you, they are no different than any system on a car, just with an 80s japanese twist
03-03-15, 07:07 PM
#49
You're overthinking this.
The whole intake appears daunting, both physically and conceptually but it's not bad at all when approached piecemeal.
It's relatively simple to remove (10, 12 & 14mm sockets and a few screwdrivers basically do the whole thing) and like anything else, the first time takes forever and it's cake thereafter.
It also makes more sense in person than in drawings (at least to me).
I guess it depends on how you plan to approach the car after purchase, what de plan be.
Do you initially tackle problems as needs be and keep the car driveable/intact as you wait out winter and get familiar with the new platform or does it roll right on the lift and get stripped?
Ultimately, this is to be a daily street car?
The whole intake appears daunting, both physically and conceptually but it's not bad at all when approached piecemeal.
It's relatively simple to remove (10, 12 & 14mm sockets and a few screwdrivers basically do the whole thing) and like anything else, the first time takes forever and it's cake thereafter.
It also makes more sense in person than in drawings (at least to me).
I guess it depends on how you plan to approach the car after purchase, what de plan be.
Do you initially tackle problems as needs be and keep the car driveable/intact as you wait out winter and get familiar with the new platform or does it roll right on the lift and get stripped?
Ultimately, this is to be a daily street car?
03-03-15, 08:15 PM
#50
The initial plan is to keep everything rock stock. Reliability is pretty important until I get my truck healthy again. So the initial plan of attack is to simply fix what's broke until it's mechanically and electrically flawless, then keep it that way. Mods are very low priority. Aesthetics are similarly low as long as the neighbors don't complain too much.