Not a performance mod... but still one I made myself :P.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...29_13_full.jpghttp://memimage.cardomain.net/member...29_14_full.jpg

Custom work on this scale is never as cheap as you think it'll be. It's easier to use a t2 front cover, the oil return needs to be above the oil level in the pan cause it's gravity only. As for the coolant, there are a lot of ways to do it, I stole it from the heater core originally then had to change it since I've decided to drive the car on the street. I bought the oil filter pedestal from Mazdatrix, it comes with 2 x 1/8" npt holes. I used a nitrous express y on one hole to feed the turbo's and the other is for my temp guage. I have an aem wb o2, aeromotive fpr, safc2, rtek 1.7, 550 and 720 inj, etc... I'll post something when I get it finished. Soon hopefully, I've been on it pretty steady for about a year now.

Brent

Thanks NOPR :D

304L is easier to weld than regular 304 and it's still 10X easier to weld cleanly than Alu. The McMaster weld ells are thick (schedule 10 is almost 1/8"). but it still isn't hard to get a weld that will start to drool on the inside of the seam. Stress relieving with a torch and slow cooling realy helps too.

I've been mulling over the idea of a servo contolled telescoping intake. (aka 787B style). Jack screw/servo motor for linear controll and a micro/motor controller to tune for rpm/map dependent response. I would think that with proper tuning a large port would still be very streetable. I have a spare 12A and I have been playing with a bum housing to make p-port housings. Supercharging has also crossed my mind. Could do more harm than good though at low rpm.

I also thought about running a supercharger but I wanted to clutch it so that once the turbo was spooled (REALLY BIG TURBO) the supercharger would dissengage.

I've had that same thought many times. It would give you awesome response and top end. I bought a supercharger off a 3.8L buick and I was going to use it(still might) but it's as long as the block and made for a transversely mounted engine.

Brent

you have to roll ur windows down to open the door dont ya

Relocated my Warning lights below my stereo to make room for a tripple gauge pod.
Also removed the cigarette lighter so I can run an Audio jack to my PSP. :D
https://img133.imageshack.us/img133/...im000768df.jpg
https://img198.imageshack.us/img198/322/rim000798ii.jpg
https://img501.imageshack.us/img501/...im000806yl.jpg
https://img87.imageshack.us/img87/8205/rim000976gn.jpg

They also get my attention easier too. I think it's because it's closer and out of direct sun light so they light up more to my eye.

Would be better to use a paxton type with a small AC clutch or custom clutch setup and attach the pulleys together.

lysholm from a millenia or a mercedes.
They are small and very efficient and have the clutch on em. Small doesnt matter either because it is only for low rpm use. I guess the wastegate would just slam shut when the SC was turned off. Would be trickey to get that transition smooth. Sequential blowers... hmmm Think about it you could be blowin 10+ psi just at the line.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mazda...spagenameZWDVW

Nice. I'm having the sunlight issue. My coolant buzzer came on the other day and I was 98% sure it was the coolant buzzer, but it took 10 seconds to see the damn light. I almost had to close my sunroof (assuming that would of helped).

no camera at the moment, but here is the link:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...=taillight+mod

i would create a 13B conversion kit for Hondas

Yeah, I should have been more elaborate. That was two completely different thoughts, the 3.8L charger was just by itself.

I moved my radiator forward and moving my air filter to behind the front bumper. I will make a y-pipe basically to hold to cone filters. I noticed while running without a filter I had plenty of power but after putting a clean cone filter on I lost a few ponies. I did not like that.

I will also control the secondary choke plates (the ones everyone removes) to close during low rpms and open at around 2000 rpm to gain a little more low end. It does work. Tried it.

Designed my own manifold back 2.5" exhaust system which uses a muffler located right under the transmission, packed with fiberglass (which has burnt out, going to restuff with steel wool). Then I have pipe from the muff to 2 resonators and to a tip out the drivers rear. The muffler has a cutout and I will make up some pipe with one resonator to go to the passenger side. That way it look fairly stock. And The flip of a switch will give my wide open exhaust.

Also in the processs of building a 3 gauge holder above the warning lights. It will fit between the windshield and the dash and will get secured to the dash with some type of bolts? I hope to find a way to secure it permantly. The guages will then get screwed to the inside of the holder to secure them as well. I don't want them to get stolen but I don't want thieves to control where I put things.

how about a valve that would allow the driver to switch from the stock exhaust to straight dual 3" pipes (hidden) with the flip of a switch. (Of course supporting mods would be requisite)

Great way to surprise anyone who is racing you (with an extra 70-80 hp, and a really loud noise).

Uhhh, for that much money you could probably get a nice aftermarket that does about the same. Racing Beat for example.

Well I dont have a turbo so 3" would be over kill let alone dual 3". dual 2" or duel 2.25" pipes would be enough. A Single 2.5" I think is just about right from the last time I did the math. I think it was a tiny bit to small. Maybe by 1/8 or somthing. I forget

Well the electric cutout I will be putting in will allow the exhust to flow straight through the muff without the exhaust going through the chambers. So it will be as open as anything. I still have the manifold though. Thats killing power. Along with my air filter :(

Actually if you can build it your self. Its VERY cheap. I built mine for just under $100. I will need to spend about another $40 or so to do the cutout piping and the $180 on the cutout.

So if you were to build your own dual exhaust with a cutout. You could probubly do it for less then $300-400. The cutout would be the most expensive.

Here are some pics of the exhaust that I built. I used a mig welder and this was my first large welding project. So I know the welds are not the best. These pics are when I was building it. I need to upload the finished pics.

http://www.geocities.com/racingrotar...s/exhaust1.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/racingrotar...s/exhaust3.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/racingrotar...s/exhaust2.jpg

How about modifying the oil injection system; instead of it taking engine oil from the oil pan, a reservoir could be added to supply the OMP with say, 2 stroke oil? Just an idea, kind of pointless, but an idea none the less.

Ordering information:

PCV Technologies, Inc.
8029 HWY 1087
DeFuniak Springs, FL 32433.
Tel/Fax(850)834-4905
email: unicorn@aic-fl.com

Price:
For 13B mech. Pump US$ 82.00
For 13B electronic Pump US$ 88.00
For 12A US$ 76.00

Not the least bit pointless now I run synthetic oil and inject two stroke oil

one word..well two maybe:

Sea Doo

The only thing is you would have to monitor the level very closely, a few kms on a long trip with no oil would = baaaad day

the adaptor block from PCV techonologies has to be I think it was 7" below the resivour. The 2 stroke would be gravity fed into the adaptor block. I kinda did not like this idea for some reason.

nope

that would be a good idea MR.GASKET makes an exhuast cut off that is activated by a switch.

i was thinkin if you were to hook it up to an rpm activated switch you would have low end back pressure and then at say 4000 rpm it switches to straight header.

:suitdance