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Is it possible to remove/fix the engine like this ?

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Old 09-29-11, 01:40 AM
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PedoBear

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Is it possible to remove/fix the engine like this ?

ok, I was done rebuilding my first engine couple days ago. tighten everything down, installed FW. etc. happy, then I left it there for a couple of days.

came back to find out there is an oil leak! it's leaking between the Rear Iron and housing, it's leaking into the bottom of the engine (oil pan area) All other parts are fine. Grrrrrrrrr

the stupid seal probably felt off when I was installing the rear iron ...

ok the question is :

I don't want to remove EVERYTHING ... cuz it's all silicone'd up and it's going to be a great pain to clean everything again.

So is it possible to just flip the engine over, remove all the tension bolt, lift the Rear iron to see wtf is going on ? or do I really really need to get completely brand new seals and re-do everything over again ...... Grrr ...
Old 09-29-11, 08:04 AM
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Did you forget to install the upper dowel pin o-ring?
Old 09-29-11, 09:46 AM
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as long as the seals don't get damaged, you don't have to replace them. they are still brand new after all. So yea, just pop off the tension bolts and pop off the rear iron, then fix the leak and reassemble. Just be sure to re-clean the surfaces and re-silicone them.
Old 09-29-11, 09:51 AM
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Sharp Claws

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yes it is easily possible, i will be doing this today in fact.

sandwich the rear rotor housing to the front iron with some clamps to keep the sandwich tight until you get all the tension bolts back in and torqued.
Old 09-29-11, 10:08 AM
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Thx for the input guys.

I think I got everything installed ... I think ...

will leave the engine like this for a few more days, busy with work, worst case I'm just gonna rip everything apart (........) , buy and use viton seals and call it a day ...

I should consider myself lucky cuz I can see the leak before I start assemble the oil pan and stuff ...

*update* I just went out to my garage, heat the FW locknut with my propane torch cuz it's "loctite" up, heat it for a good 1 minute, bang it with my garbage impact + suck *** 4 gallon compressor for a good 2 minutes and it finally came off, damn those loctite red stuff is really "tight"

this engine came with a K spacer ... and the endplay was 0.095 (wtF???) , now I'm using a V spacer and everything is perfect (0.04mm)

so assume I just rip everything apart down to the front iron ... it should be ok to leave all the front stack stuff there ... right ? cuz I use Hylomar for most of the engine EXCEPT the front cover which I use silicone ... Hylomar is easy to clean I just use Acetone, but Silicone ... and I really trying to avoid the front cover removal ...
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