Banzai sells a good dual alt pulley, I think most other places sell them as under drive pulleys.

 

I see why you want to go N/A.
You may have a slight problem with shutting the hood..lol!

 

you can put all stock turbo stuff on na n/a engine just have to match the intake, i had it that way.

 

I have lower intake, upper intake, exhaust manifold, turbo but no turbo TB. For that setup did you just run all N/A electronics??

Also to run the t2 trans, do i just need a flywheel or do i need the counterweight too.

 

The NA throttle body is different from the Turbo unit. You need to have that part.

I'm not sure what you mean by "NA Electronics", but the engine can run on the NA harness with a turbo ECU, but the wire lengths are wrong for the injectors and there are several sensors that are not provided for. Your'e better off getting a t2 engine harness and ECU. The NA engine "can" run the engine, but it is never recommended. Can being that it is physically capable, but not a good idea. Timing and fuel maps are all wrong.

The trans topic has been covered in other threads, but i'll summarize. You need a T2 starter, flywheel, clutch, driveshaft, T2 rear diff, and t2 rear axles. Mazdatrix does make a t2 to na diff driveshaft if you so desire.

Do more research and use the search, Young Grasshopper. Then, and only then, will you be ready.

 

thanks for the input
I had searched a bit about the trans and had seen it both ways. some say you need the counterweight others not. So I'll just get the t2 flywheel, dshaft and axles since i have the rest from my last build.

 

The rear counter weight is needed if you install a lightweight flywheel.

Make sure you get the same flywheel as the series of your engine. So S4 T2 and S4 NA have the same counterweight. The S5 rotor weights are different.

 

I was considering the same project, Tii to NA. And came to a similar conclusion for the drivetrain. Use Tii components all the way: flywheel (s4), starter, clutch, tranny, driveshaft, LSDiff, and axles. That's what the car originally had and that's what the car will eventually need if/when you go turbo, someday. (I'm thinking the S5 tranny might have a better overdrive gear, though.)

 

I have read a few threads on NA to Tii conversions, and made notes, but in reverse.

While running an NA engine, plug in a stock N326 or N327 ECU (they are basically the same).
The Tii vs NA wire harnesses seem quite similar, but either way, their is slight mods involved.

Use the NA exhaust manifold and I recommend a silencer/resonator. Follow that up with a turbo cat and dual exhaust. Again, you'll want a turbo cat-back some day.

For the NA engine, get the entire NA intake system: NA Mass Air Flow, throttle, throttle cable, UIM, LIM, NA injectors, (and the appropriate boost/pressure sensor, I believe.)

 

Which exhaust do you have? Dont forget youll need some sort of back pressure for the 6 port actuators. Easiest way is to have a pipe welded from the center of ur exhaust, although there are PITA alternate ways to accomplish this. If your exhaust is too free flowing, there wont be enough back pressure to actuate the ports.

 

Good point, but I addressed this issue already. I no longer rely on exhaust back pressure for my aux ports to operate. And I didn't get complicated like others have done with solenoids and RPM switches either.

My approach is kinda slick, actually. Similar to the S5 setup, my 6-ports are actuated (not hot dirty exhaust air flowing backwards but) by air pressure from my air pump. There is a hose in between the air pump and the air control valve. I tapped into that air source and fed that into the hard line that feeds the 5th-6th port actuators. I used a needle/saddle valve and was able to dial in the about of pressure I wanted based on the RPMs that caused the actuators to move. To measure/record the actuator movement, some use white lithium grease, but I actually installed an o-ring rubber washer over the actuator shaft, and see if it slides up, after a short cruise of no more than 3800 rpm.
Good question...I should do a full write someday.

 

That is slick, if it works correctly. I second the writeup.

 

I'll be running the n/a engine, n/a ecu, and n/a harness and the n/a pressure sensor with it.

the exhaust for me at the moment is just the stock manifold.. and I'm having a hard time finding what i want to do with it from there.. is there an exhaust flange that i can take to a shop and have them do a custom system for me? i am planning to delete the air pump (its already gone...) also no need for a cat as i live in an emission free county.

I'm just waiting to find a deal on a trans so i can see if this engine will fire up and its worth dumping more money into.

 

You can buy a flange in steel or stainless from Racing Beat. Just be aware that most exhaust shops use aluminized steel pipe that is rather thin. It will likely rust out prematurely due to that. Now I am guessing you are talking about the outlet from the manifold to the rest of the system, and not the header flange at the engine.

If you want a header, just buy a racing beat one. High quality unit and relatively affordable.

 

The Racing Beat headers are nice. I have one. They are the most popular.
New, they are $300. You can find them used for $200 or less, depending if you search far and wide.

Can I suggest you consider a Bonez 2.5" race pipe from RX7.com.. For $228 it will bolt directly to the stock exhaust manifold, and it includes a presilencer for some sound suppression. It doesn't include a catalytic converter and it sounds like you don't need one anyways. This should flow nicely. And the back end flange should line up with a stock cat back system. Since the race pipe is a bolt on solution, then some day you can unbolt it and re-sell it, when you go turbo.

You'll still have a challenge to properly actuate your auxiliary ports, since you don't have an air pump (my idea) or an exhaust outlet for backpressure. You could look up the electronic RPM switch method...but it might be simpler to take that race pipe to a muffler shop/welder and have them weld on a 3/8 inch pipe a couple inches long, and bent that forwards the engine and connect that to the auxiliary port actuator hard line. (Ask for details, when you are ready)

But the easiest and cheapest method is to not bother actuating the 6th port, initially. Position them closed for better low end torque, or position them wide open for better high end horse power. You can come up with a creative solution over time, after you get it up and running.

 

Back in the day, i picked up a pacesetter header for half the price of the RB. never had a problem, and they are close to identical.

 

I personally had the RB one on my FB and it was fantastic until I sold it. I personally never had a Pacesetter, but I have heard very mixed reviews on it.

 

the car was s5 t2 from factory but it had a s4 n/a shortblock, everything else was stock t2! but it didn't have a t2 counterweight and thats why i did a rebuild. but it worked good.

 

I was thinking about that for a 6pi turbo setup. i figure it would clear with an old greddy manifold.

 

It might not clear though. The greddy manifold is designed for a T4 turbo I believe, so it's a bigger turbo as well. Just to run a stock turbo on an na manifold, the turbo manifold has to be spaced out 2.5"