Possible lucky buy for good turbo engine from junkyard. need advice.

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01-29-13, 03:44 PM

#51

wthdidusay82

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Quote:

Originally Posted by pfsantos

Find a used transmission. It can be completely junk. You just need the bellhousing to bolt on to the engine for the starter to have a place to mount to. Someone's gotta have one around you...post in your local forum section. Then all you need is a starter, battery and wire. Then check compression. You'll get a much better idea of the shape the engine is in. Good luck.

I've made a post looking for locals but not for this predicament.

I was just gonna take my chances and hope for the best since I cant afford a rebuild.

Does it matter if engine is dry w/out oil in it for the test? (Dumb question I know but I figured I'd ask)

I'll make another post and see if anyone can help me get it compression tested.

Today it was really nice, 70 degrees here in Va , may start working on taking out the engine that's in the car soon, want to see if I can fix its coolant issue.

Even if I do get it to run okay the Turbo has side and end play, and there's a few things I'd like to do for preventive maintenance.

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01-30-13, 01:10 PM

#52

wthdidusay82

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Is there suppose to be that much end play I can feel the flywheel push back and forth?

Bad bearings?

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01-30-13, 02:11 PM

#53

j9fd3s

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Quote:

Originally Posted by wthdidusay82

Is there suppose to be that much end play I can feel the flywheel push back and forth?

Bad bearings?

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is the front pulley on there? if not then there will be.

compression sounds ok, there are 6 pretty even chugs, but its still a 160k used engine...

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01-30-13, 02:22 PM

#54

wthdidusay82

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Pulley isn't on its just bare block with the hub.

How much play should there be? Do you think it could possibly have been rebuilt or probably not.

I'm trying to get it compression tested but having no luck finding someone who can help.

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01-30-13, 03:49 PM

#55

RXSpeed16

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Quote:

Originally Posted by wthdidusay82

Correct endplay is between .0016" and .0035". You won't be able to tell the difference by hand. If you are even thinking about rebuilding this engine, you better start getting real cozy with the engine section of the FSM.

Your video isn't a real compression test, but more of an "apex/side seal test" and it passes. Only other functional test you can do is fill and pressure test the coolant system. Extra sealant, obvious porting, mis-matched series parts, and a mazda reman tag on the front iron are the only external ways I can think of in order to tell if a block has been rebuilt.

Axial play in the turbo is definitely bad news, though. Prepare to replace it.