Possible lucky buy for good turbo engine from junkyard. need advice.
01-11-13, 12:10 AM
#26
I'll have to check it out when I get it taken off, I don't think the previous owner knew what he was doing or talking about.
I plan on porting the wastegate, I'll try to keep the boost close to stock but with having a 3" exhaust I'm sure it won't stay at 5.5 psi
Rotary >Pistons
I plan on porting the wastegate, I'll try to keep the boost close to stock but with having a 3" exhaust I'm sure it won't stay at 5.5 psi
Rotary >Pistons
01-11-13, 11:44 AM
#28
With a stock air filter box and paper filter you might stay at 8-10...maybe even less. But you kind of have to put it together and see what it does...every car and every setup is different. I've seen cars with the RB 3" turboback boost anywhere between 8 and 14psi.
01-11-13, 11:53 AM
#29
With a stock air filter box and paper filter you might stay at 8-10...maybe even less. But you kind of have to put it together and see what it does...every car and every setup is different. I've seen cars with the RB 3" turboback boost anywhere between 8 and 14psi.
Rotary >Pistons
01-13-13, 12:48 AM
#31
01-13-13, 10:23 AM
#34
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01-13-13, 10:19 PM
#35
Although I don't do a lot on the tuning/modification side of things, I think you'd run out of injector before you'd run out of fuel pressure/pump.
But I agree, for 100 bucks for a new whinebro...er walbro, sure, go ahead and do the pump at the same time...obviously inspect the tank and replace the main fuel filter at the same time so your fuel system will be 100% new.
But I agree, for 100 bucks for a new whinebro...er walbro, sure, go ahead and do the pump at the same time...obviously inspect the tank and replace the main fuel filter at the same time so your fuel system will be 100% new.
01-13-13, 11:48 PM
#36
Im trying to find an ecu. If I could get an rtek itd be nice, I have the 87 so I need n332 if you know anyone that has one.
I'm guessing with stock ecu even with a fcd , upgraded injectors and fuel pump 12 psi wouldn't be safe.
Rotary >Pistons
I'm guessing with stock ecu even with a fcd , upgraded injectors and fuel pump 12 psi wouldn't be safe.
Rotary >Pistons
01-14-13, 12:08 AM
#37
The big problem with the FCD is that the ECU uses the boost sensor to calculate timing retard for boost. But the FCD clamps voltage and lies to the ECU about high boost, so the computer winds up with several degrees too much timing for the true boost amount you ARE running.
Remember, fuel is only HALF of the tuning equation, but people forget that and think "if I throw enough fuel into this thing to keep it rich, it won't blow up". In reality it almost works the opposite..if you pull enough timing you can run leaner and still not blow up (with the side effect of making less power, obviously). There are ways to "fool" the stock computer to give more fuel, but (other than retarding base timing across the board at the CAS) none that I know of to adjust timing under boost, which is why it sucks.
01-14-13, 11:15 AM
#38
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Although I don't do a lot on the tuning/modification side of things, I think you'd run out of injector before you'd run out of fuel pressure/pump.
But I agree, for 100 bucks for a new whinebro...er walbro, sure, go ahead and do the pump at the same time...obviously inspect the tank and replace the main fuel filter at the same time so your fuel system will be 100% new.
But I agree, for 100 bucks for a new whinebro...er walbro, sure, go ahead and do the pump at the same time...obviously inspect the tank and replace the main fuel filter at the same time so your fuel system will be 100% new.
so since its sized with no margin, its a great 1st upgrade. along with BOTH fuel filters. i like the FD pump in a stockish T2, its quiet, and bigger enough, and usually cheap if you know an FD person.
you can use either N332 or N333 ecu's. if you're gonna throw that old junkyard engine in, i wouldn't push it to 12psi at all. with a new/fresh engine 12psi is still asking a lot on the stock turbo.
01-14-13, 11:35 AM
#39
The big problem with the FCD is that the ECU uses the boost sensor to calculate timing retard for boost. But the FCD clamps voltage and lies to the ECU about high boost, so the computer winds up with several degrees too much timing for the true boost amount you ARE running.
Remember, fuel is only HALF of the tuning equation, but people forget that and think "if I throw enough fuel into this thing to keep it rich, it won't blow up". In reality it almost works the opposite..if you pull enough timing you can run leaner and still not blow up (with the side effect of making less power, obviously). There are ways to "fool" the stock computer to give more fuel, but (other than retarding base timing across the board at the CAS) none that I know of to adjust timing under boost, which is why it sucks.
Remember, fuel is only HALF of the tuning equation, but people forget that and think "if I throw enough fuel into this thing to keep it rich, it won't blow up". In reality it almost works the opposite..if you pull enough timing you can run leaner and still not blow up (with the side effect of making less power, obviously). There are ways to "fool" the stock computer to give more fuel, but (other than retarding base timing across the board at the CAS) none that I know of to adjust timing under boost, which is why it sucks.
-The Walbro dumps fuel because it overruns the stock fpr and puts fuel pressure up into the 50's.
-Premium (91 here) has more knock resistance than the 87 used for stock timing maps.
-Rtek 1.x ecu's drop 1 degree of timing per psi over 9 psi iirc, so that helps too.
It'll kinda work, until one day it doesn't.
01-14-13, 11:57 AM
#40
my engineer friend converted the S4 fuel pump from lbs/hr to cc/min, and it flows exactly 4x550cc/min, and that's if its new!
so since its sized with no margin, its a great 1st upgrade. along with BOTH fuel filters. i like the FD pump in a stockish T2, its quiet, and bigger enough, and usually cheap if you know an FD person.
you can use either N332 or N333 ecu's. if you're gonna throw that old junkyard engine in, i wouldn't push it to 12psi at all. with a new/fresh engine 12psi is still asking a lot on the stock turbo.
so since its sized with no margin, its a great 1st upgrade. along with BOTH fuel filters. i like the FD pump in a stockish T2, its quiet, and bigger enough, and usually cheap if you know an FD person.
you can use either N332 or N333 ecu's. if you're gonna throw that old junkyard engine in, i wouldn't push it to 12psi at all. with a new/fresh engine 12psi is still asking a lot on the stock turbo.
Replace both fuel filters with new ones from the fd or do what ?(sorry confused to what you mean by that, I'm pretty smart but I do have a hard time filling in the blanks to things I'm still learning.
If i can use 332 or 333 I'll get either one.
I'm planning to rebuild that junkyard engine, I'd throw it in the car if I thought it'd last a while but from what I've gathered it may not last long at all, especially if im pushing more boost than stock levels. Part of me really wants to put it in and hear it run , but part of me doesn't because it'd kill me inside if it blew up.
Aside from that, I think my car is missing the underbelly tray. My thoughts tell me it's bad to run without it , because the engine will lose cooling and run hotter. What's your thoughts/opinions ?
01-14-13, 12:11 PM
#41
There is a "filter" on the pump itself, some people call it a sock or strainer.
There is of course a standard fuel filter up in the engine bay and you need to change it too.
A new walbro will come with a new strainer for the pump. If you go with a used fuel pump you have to buy a new strainer separately for about 15-20 bucks. Most denso style fuel pumps use similar/the same strainers so you should have no issue finding one.
Either way, you have an FC so you need an FC main fuel filter....FD filters are entirely different. They also cost a lot due to their weird design and I dont even put stock fuel filters for FD's on FD's...I use a generic filter that costs 12 dollars and relocate them for easier access.
There is of course a standard fuel filter up in the engine bay and you need to change it too.
A new walbro will come with a new strainer for the pump. If you go with a used fuel pump you have to buy a new strainer separately for about 15-20 bucks. Most denso style fuel pumps use similar/the same strainers so you should have no issue finding one.
Either way, you have an FC so you need an FC main fuel filter....FD filters are entirely different. They also cost a lot due to their weird design and I dont even put stock fuel filters for FD's on FD's...I use a generic filter that costs 12 dollars and relocate them for easier access.
01-14-13, 12:40 PM
#42
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Okay so the fd fuel pump drops right in ? what do you mean by both fuel filters ?
Replace both fuel filters with new ones from the fd or do what ?(sorry confused to what you mean by that, I'm pretty smart but I do have a hard time filling in the blanks to things I'm still learning.
If i can use 332 or 333 I'll get either one.
I'm planning to rebuild that junkyard engine, I'd throw it in the car if I thought it'd last a while but from what I've gathered it may not last long at all, especially if im pushing more boost than stock levels. Part of me really wants to put it in and hear it run , but part of me doesn't because it'd kill me inside if it blew up.
Aside from that, I think my car is missing the underbelly tray. My thoughts tell me it's bad to run without it , because the engine will lose cooling and run hotter. What's your thoughts/opinions ?
Replace both fuel filters with new ones from the fd or do what ?(sorry confused to what you mean by that, I'm pretty smart but I do have a hard time filling in the blanks to things I'm still learning.
If i can use 332 or 333 I'll get either one.
I'm planning to rebuild that junkyard engine, I'd throw it in the car if I thought it'd last a while but from what I've gathered it may not last long at all, especially if im pushing more boost than stock levels. Part of me really wants to put it in and hear it run , but part of me doesn't because it'd kill me inside if it blew up.
Aside from that, I think my car is missing the underbelly tray. My thoughts tell me it's bad to run without it , because the engine will lose cooling and run hotter. What's your thoughts/opinions ?
the FD fuel pump literally drops in, it looks identical to the FC pump. which is nice.
01-14-13, 12:44 PM
#43
For instance, I recently had guys quoting me $100-150 for stock FD flywheels, and $40 for a single FD sequential turbo control solenoid that I needed for a customer's car.
01-14-13, 01:01 PM
#44
Yeah, but you have FD guys who think their stock parts are worth almost as much as new aftermarket parts (like a walbro).
For instance, I recently had guys quoting me $100-150 for stock FD flywheels, and $40 for a single FD sequential turbo control solenoid that I needed for a customer's car.
For instance, I recently had guys quoting me $100-150 for stock FD flywheels, and $40 for a single FD sequential turbo control solenoid that I needed for a customer's car.
I had a guy that looked at my old na rx7 , he wanted the full exhaust from the header to the muffler for 150 bucks when brand new it costed me like 600 bucks and I got a deal on the catback, it was a borla.
I think it's more that some of us selling these parts really have a hard time giving them up for a reasonable amount of money, and not many people want to pay a reasonable price , they expect everything as cheap as possible then they'll buy it and go sell it to someone else for double the price.
01-14-13, 04:29 PM
#45
I would take the junkyard engine and the engine out of your car and tear both of them down, inspect the parts and use the parts with the least amount of wear from the two.
Do a full rebuild, that way you won't blow an old engine down the road and ruin the parts inside.
Do a full rebuild, that way you won't blow an old engine down the road and ruin the parts inside.
01-14-13, 08:08 PM
#46
I would take the junkyard engine and the engine out of your car and tear both of them down, inspect the parts and use the parts with the least amount of wear from the two.
Do a full rebuild, that way you won't blow an old engine down the road and ruin the parts inside.
Do a full rebuild, that way you won't blow an old engine down the road and ruin the parts inside.
The most expensive thing will be the rebuild kit (apex seals etc).
Im still not sure what I want to go with, ra , Atkins goopy, etc. Then there's always stock apex seals which are more expensive.
I'll probably be running a stock turbo for a while so power won't be over 300 at the flywheel until I upgrade, which I do plan to do later down the road but not anytime soon.
Rotary >Pistons
01-14-13, 09:23 PM
#47
Check to see if there is porting in the exhaust or intake.
Check to make sure all housings, and flywheel, match the same series as the front cover.
If the series do not match, or it has port work, it has definitely been rebuilt in the past.
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
Banzai Racing Housings Identification
S4 rotors = cast combustion recess
S5 rotors = machined combustion recess
Check to make sure all housings, and flywheel, match the same series as the front cover.
If the series do not match, or it has port work, it has definitely been rebuilt in the past.
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
Banzai Racing Housings Identification
S4 rotors = cast combustion recess
S5 rotors = machined combustion recess
01-29-13, 02:02 PM
#49
So I made another video with me turning the engine in the correct direction.
Opinions on the compression? Is the end-play normal?
Also I put the plugs in to see how it feels and its definitely not easy to spin with them in.
Rotary >Pistons
Opinions on the compression? Is the end-play normal?
Also I put the plugs in to see how it feels and its definitely not easy to spin with them in.
Rotary >Pistons
01-29-13, 03:37 PM
#50
Find a used transmission. It can be completely junk. You just need the bellhousing to bolt on to the engine for the starter to have a place to mount to. Someone's gotta have one around you...post in your local forum section. Then all you need is a starter, battery and wire. Then check compression. You'll get a much better idea of the shape the engine is in. Good luck.