mazdaspeed7

I regret building that aux bridge motor. Well, I learned a lot from it, but it is not a practical motor. Youll need a custom manifold with 6 individual runners, and a good standalone to get the full potential out of that motor. Stock ecu and stock manifold simply do NOT cut it.

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

yea,thats one thing I have managed to learn, if i do go with a bridge port i am going to need a standalone. That afm just has to go. I really wanted to go with one now but I knew it wouldn't get the care it deserved since I didn't have enough for a standalone. I'll just play with this motor until it pops.

88IntegraLS

So how's it drive? (both of you)

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

Don't really know. I got my all the parts I needed and got it assembled and dropped in the car about a day before I had to leave for college. I went back last weekend to hook up everthing and to get her started. That was it. I am currenly having a problem with the exhaust so I didn't want to drive it. Not to mention that the cars insurance is suspended and my plates have been suspended as well. I guess thats what happens when you keep failing the emissions tests. I live in the city so driving the car was a definate no no. Cops would have heard the exhaust and pulled me over, only to find I had no insurance or plates.

Anyways I got her running, on the first try I might add. I am going back in a few weeks to get the exhaust straightened out and get my bonez cat put on. I really cannot wait to let her loose on the road. The break in has to be done within a week, Thanksgiving break. Anyone ever tried putting 1500 miles on a car in about 4-5 days? This is gonna be fun.

88IntegraLS

Ha, same here (getting it started first try). I spent today assembling and installing the engine and off it went after a couple seconds of cranking. I think all the oil that gets put on the seals while assembling an engine gives it a good chance of starting right up, although if it doesn't, then it floods and you're up a creek.

Once I got the motor going I set the idle at about 1200, and it was missing quite a bit at first. I thought I still had a coolant leak because it was steaming badly out the exhaust pipes. But the coolant reservoir was not bubbling over and the steam went away after about 15 minutes of idling, so it was probably just water in the exhaust from when I had the ruptured seal last time. I am still not certain if I have any pinholes in the used housings I put in this rebuild, which came from a couple of other people, but I will find out tomorrow when I start it up again.

*sigh of relief*

I can't wait to test out the ports on the street!!!

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

I know the feeling. Well the feeling of not being able to wait to actually drive it. It is burning inside me. Now all I have to do is gat a header to maximize the effectiveness of the porting. Cant wait!

mazdaspeed7

I know what you mean about enjoying the porting. I cant wait to wind out my car, with all my ports open.

My engine is running AWESOME. Its already running better than my last motor. And it sounds SO much better now that I dont have any exhaust leaks. I actually hear my intake again!!!

nillahcaz

iTrader: (2)

if i do the bp im going webber. and more than likely E85.

88IntegraLS

Well if anyone out in internet land is wondering how a ported engine drives compared to a stock one, I can reflect my observations from driving over the last two days and 100+ miles. I have been keeping the engine under 4000 rpm of course.

From 1000-2000 rpm the engine is perhaps a tad less torquey than before, 2-3000 it is about the same if not stronger, and from 3-4000 it is quite a bit stronger. It is really hard letting off in time while winding up first and second gear in order to not end up in 5000 territory.

It's been starting normally, pretty easily in fact, just flooding once in a while when starting cold. That has been easy to deal with using the standard (non atf) procedure. It idles rough when cold and pretty smoothly when warm, about like stock, not lumpy or brappy.

It sounds better (more growl) than stock but I am still using my stock exhaust with gutted precats. Putting a header or catback on it would be much too loud for my taste for everyday driving.

So anyhow, as far as the rpm range where the primaries and secondaries are concerned, it feels about the same as before it was ported, just with more power. It really takes off if throttle is fed in gradually and not suddenly; for example, by feeding in full pedal over a second or two instead of a quick stomp. The change in driving experience is kind of like when installing a header, in that the power band remains the same shape, but it gets a little steeper. The few times when it got past 4000 rpm on me, there was no hesitation, burst of power or anything crossing 3800 rpm like before, just smoooooth power. I am hoping to have a nice flat power curve that goes right up to the redline instead of getting flat at the top, the way it was stock.

So there you go ladies and gents. Go port your engine and you may receive a similar gain in power without any loss in drivability. Just don't expect to pass emmissios (even though doing it on a street port is not uncommon).

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear your rebuild is working out for you!

DADDY-O-ROTOR

If you like the feel of your ported engine now just wait til you get past your break-in period and get up in the revs. The first time I ran through the gears shifting at 6500 if broke the tires at 1-2 and 2-3, plastered back in the seat. Big time "seat of pants" experience.

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

Congratulations, now finish breaking it in so you can start having some real fun.

mazdaspeed7

I cant wait to see 9K rpm... And smoke my friends S2000...

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

Hahaha

Smoke him you will.

88IntegraLS

Well this little porting experiment of mine just passed 1000 miles and it's been rev time lately.

. . . and I love the ports! Those auxes that I did were pretty large, but they really come on after 4500 rpm and create what feels like a 20-30% increase in acceleration force as the tach crosses that range.

In hindsight, I might have made the primaries a tad larger by going down a little, or opening a little earlier . . but that's just splitting hairs. So far the ports have been a complete success.


Now how 'bout the rest of you who had engines being broken in? What's your status?

*edit*

I do have a sort of performance estimate for the car now. I have done a few 0-60 sprints and at the top of second, it's right at 60mph. It does it in 6-7 seconds but I need to really time it to know for sure. Maybe I should buy a G-tech. The stock 0-60 time is 8.5 seconds according to some list I found on a university website. My car is also 2400 pounds empty, which seemes to help.

mazdaspeed7

2K miles on mine, But the 6 ports are still blocked off. I havent had time to do anything on my car. I still need to do that compression test.....that goes to show how much time I have for my car...

This motor has a broader, flatter torque curve than my last one. The lower exhaust port, and less overlap had a big effect on the powerband below 5K. Now my torque curve feels almost flat from 4k-8K. And it below 4K, the extra torque is readily apparent. Maybe Ill try opening my 6 ports this weekend.

christi

I don't feel like reading through all of this, but I do have a quick question:

Would it be best to practice porting on a old engine that might never get rebuilt, or just start with the engine that you'll be rebuilding?

I'm thinking of SP'ing the GXL's motor.... (Assuming i get another motor for the time being) ...but im not sure if I should since this is my first time doing it..... and let a expert (or someone who's done it before) do it.

What do you think?

That and if you port it , should you get it polished as well?

88IntegraLS

The answer to your question can be found in this very thread.

christi

err, well I was kinda in a rush when I was posted (the lab was closing at my school)...

Sorry I'll go read now

calio64

what can we do do get the pics back on this thread?

thanx

88IntegraLS

Sorry about that. I had to leave my web hosting when I became a poor college student, but I still have all the pics. I will post a couple later tonight.

calio64

sweet man....... thatll be awesome

KiyoKix

Glad to see people still post here, I was looking for those pics again too. I'm quite eager to see them again (this time I'll actually save them like I do everything else...I need to see the RarestRX true duals pics gain ).

Any new developements in the motors built in this thread? How about Dyno or G-tech numbers, I'd love to see them.

88IntegraLS

The first pics I will post show the template of my ports over the stock ports. Here is the secondary and aux port. You can see that I wanted to extend the timing of the aux port by taking it up higher.

88IntegraLS

There are two ways to extend port duration, by making the ports open earlier or close later. Grinding the stock port upward causes it to close later, and grinding it back toward the corner seal track causes it to open earlier. In the above picture, you can see that I took both ports upward and outward, but _not_ inward very much. Grinding inward past the oil control seal track could cause the engine to smoke. This engine did not smoke after this port job.

Here is the primary port with its corresponding street port template (home made):



I took this port mostly upward to make it close later. It actually closes later than the secondary port, but does so with a smaller orifice. My thinking with this port was to keep it small, make it flow better and make it close later. Common opinion with porting the primary port is that if you make it too large, low end torque suffers. This port did not cause my engine to have less low end torque than stock; in fact, it has more now than before IMO.