Poor man's anti-theft device
02-23-08, 10:12 PM
#77
In the back of my '88 SE there is a little compartment with a little hatch on the drivers side behind the wheel well. You can hide a fuel cut-off switch back in there where it can't be seen - only be found by feeling around in there. You have to open the hatch to get to it, but that makes it harder to find. You just have to look like your doing something back there so someone doesn't notice you hitting the switch.
Alternatively a wireless switch or a chain through the wheels would be a deterrent as well. I try not to have anything worth stealing - stock radio & unlocked doors. I used to just leave the key on the floorboard, windows down, sunroof open - If they REALLY wanted the car they could take it, but I doubt they could start it. I think my alarm actually still works... I accidentally locked it & it went off one night in the driveway.
Ramses666
Alternatively a wireless switch or a chain through the wheels would be a deterrent as well. I try not to have anything worth stealing - stock radio & unlocked doors. I used to just leave the key on the floorboard, windows down, sunroof open - If they REALLY wanted the car they could take it, but I doubt they could start it. I think my alarm actually still works... I accidentally locked it & it went off one night in the driveway.
Ramses666
02-24-08, 09:31 PM
#79
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depending if you have ac or not or use it i typically wire a cut off switch to my ac button. i wire it to cut off the fuel.
Noone ever knows!
i did the same thing to a friends civic. i put in an ac switch just like the factory and in the same spot as the factory and they gave him $400 more dollars for the car when he traded it in.
Noone ever knows!
i did the same thing to a friends civic. i put in an ac switch just like the factory and in the same spot as the factory and they gave him $400 more dollars for the car when he traded it in.
02-24-08, 10:19 PM
#80
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just pull the fuse and take it with you. I do that if i park my car outside for an extended time (I'm a college student, and my car doesn't come with me to Ithaca, where they salt the **** out of the roads).
to be extra careful, just keep an extra few fuses in the car (storage bins, et cetera)
if you park in sketchy areas a lot, and you know what youre doing, wire yourself up a handy fuel switch
to be extra careful, just keep an extra few fuses in the car (storage bins, et cetera)
if you park in sketchy areas a lot, and you know what youre doing, wire yourself up a handy fuel switch
02-24-08, 11:36 PM
#81
Rotary Enthusiast
An alarm is only as good as the install.
case & point - buddy had an alarm in his car and the thing started going nuts about 2 hours before he had the thing schedualed to be wholesaled. He calls me in a panic, I go to his house, dis-arm the alarm, open the door - alarm goes CRAZY! I can't start the car, can't turn the alarm off etc etc. So I reach under the dash, find it, give a yank and the ziptie holding it there breaks and the alarm comes crashing down. I disconnect it and viola - alarm bypassed. I then had the courtesy to spend about 5 mintues with some dykes and electrical tape to remove any evidence there was an alarm. Moral - alarms are only as good as the installation.
Mine is bolted to where the ABS module should be next to where the factory ECU once was. Takes a few minutes to get to IFF you know where it is. While looking for it though I have a Hella air horn IN the cabin that starts blaring when the alarm is triggered. So you have ear splitting noise while looking for ****
The radio and everything is bolted down, the windows are heavily tinted, and there are a few lights flashing. It's all a waste of time though becuase I can see my car from my desk and I rarely drive it for errands. At home my theft detterent is a house alarm and a 75lb German Shepard in training 
The nice thing about alarms are the windows up, lock the doors, also chirps different if it was triggered. - Means look for door dings.... then again I always park in the last spot far far away from everyone in the corner on a diagnol.
case & point - buddy had an alarm in his car and the thing started going nuts about 2 hours before he had the thing schedualed to be wholesaled. He calls me in a panic, I go to his house, dis-arm the alarm, open the door - alarm goes CRAZY! I can't start the car, can't turn the alarm off etc etc. So I reach under the dash, find it, give a yank and the ziptie holding it there breaks and the alarm comes crashing down. I disconnect it and viola - alarm bypassed. I then had the courtesy to spend about 5 mintues with some dykes and electrical tape to remove any evidence there was an alarm. Moral - alarms are only as good as the installation.
Mine is bolted to where the ABS module should be next to where the factory ECU once was. Takes a few minutes to get to IFF you know where it is. While looking for it though I have a Hella air horn IN the cabin that starts blaring when the alarm is triggered. So you have ear splitting noise while looking for ****
The radio and everything is bolted down, the windows are heavily tinted, and there are a few lights flashing. It's all a waste of time though becuase I can see my car from my desk and I rarely drive it for errands. At home my theft detterent is a house alarm and a 75lb German Shepard in training The nice thing about alarms are the windows up, lock the doors, also chirps different if it was triggered. - Means look for door dings.... then again I always park in the last spot far far away from everyone in the corner on a diagnol.
I ended up gutting the entire interior to get at all the wiring harnesses, gutted and re-worked them for the alarm system. I won't say where I put the alarm brain, but it was not under the dash or in the glove box; I did leave a nice and loud siren for any amateur thief to find though :-). I used generic alarm stickers and ditched the manufacturer's blue LED for a generic bright red one. The less a thief knows about what you've got, the better.
Added on keyless entry, remote hatch release, and remote sunroof open and close (closes when the alarm is armed, and opened/vented with the remote).
Note about actuators: use actuators with plenty of torque. You need a minimum of 7 pounds pulling torque to open the hatch, and you should use strong actuators to lock and unlock the doors. The DEI 524N 2-wire and 12 Volt Parts actuators work perfectly; the 12 Volt Parts ones are quieter. Avoid the cheap generic ones and small ones made by Omega, they won't work with the hatch and barely work with the door locks--I'm replacing mine with the 12 Volt Parts ones.
02-25-08, 12:11 AM
#82
IFO Forced Induction Slo
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If someone really wants to take your 7, they will. Whether it be learning the car beforehand, reading forums on how to unlock doors without keys, or using a tow truck.
I had one buddy that had his very tastefully modded civic si stolen on a thursday. The car was "found" on saturday afternoon, completely stripped of everything worth more than a couple of bucks. I'm talking about motor, trans, nitrous kit, wheels, hood, trunk, doors, carpet, seats, all interior peices, fuel pump, spare, small rear windows, even the gd inspection and registration stickers.
Alarms can be disabled. Then your car is still gone. There is no alarm on my car, but it has LoJack. I have the upgraded version that alerts me to my cell, my bro to his cell, and a couple other buddies to their cells, with a txt message saying the car is being moved without the car being on. If for some magical reason that I am too slow to catch the theif in the act and beat the living **** out of him, I will catch him in a few minutes.
Talk to the LoJack sales rep and break them down on the price. They lowered the price with me by $100 a car since I had 2 cars get it at once.
I had one buddy that had his very tastefully modded civic si stolen on a thursday. The car was "found" on saturday afternoon, completely stripped of everything worth more than a couple of bucks. I'm talking about motor, trans, nitrous kit, wheels, hood, trunk, doors, carpet, seats, all interior peices, fuel pump, spare, small rear windows, even the gd inspection and registration stickers.
Alarms can be disabled. Then your car is still gone. There is no alarm on my car, but it has LoJack. I have the upgraded version that alerts me to my cell, my bro to his cell, and a couple other buddies to their cells, with a txt message saying the car is being moved without the car being on. If for some magical reason that I am too slow to catch the theif in the act and beat the living **** out of him, I will catch him in a few minutes.
Talk to the LoJack sales rep and break them down on the price. They lowered the price with me by $100 a car since I had 2 cars get it at once.
Last edited by bigdv519; 02-25-08 at 12:13 AM. Reason: spelling
02-25-08, 12:46 AM
#83
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A wheel clamp would make it very hard to steal a car, and if you wanted to take it a step farther get a Kryptonite chain and lock and anchor the wheel clamp to something. This would be to stop the car from getting towed off on you.
Just dont forget about it when you go to drive off
02-25-08, 02:40 AM
#84
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It most definitely disables the starter. My t2 had a broken driverside lock (key wouldn't go in all the way), and I would lock it from the passenger side with power locks when I went to work since it would be sitting for 8 or more hours. Well a couple of times I made the mistake of trying to go in the passenger side and setting off the alarm. I goto start the car to see if the alarm would shut off, and surprise, car won't start. I finally shut off the alarm and the car started up fine. This happened one too many times. Not to mention that friggin' alarm was annoying as hell. Talk about a headache sheesh.
02-25-08, 10:57 PM
#85
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A wheel clamp would make it very hard to steal a car, and if you wanted to take it a step farther get a Kryptonite chain and lock and anchor the wheel clamp to something. This would be to stop the car from getting towed off on you.
Just dont forget about it when you go to drive off
06-11-08, 03:24 AM
#86
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yeah i got a few tricks
First of all my door locks a busted so i cant even get in right now unless its through the hatch. BTW if some one knows how to fix the door locks please let me know. Second i need new shifter bushings. so when i park my car i leave it unlocked so i can get back in but i take the shifter with me. YES OH SNAP thats right i take it with me. takes like 30 seconds to remove. so at this point its dead in the water. but i also have a flashing x mas light wired to a battery pack in the center concel so the stock security light flashes and is also brighter. and lastly i just bought this car and the stock cd player was old and didn't work so i gutted it and made it a fake removable plate for my after market alpine so the stock cd player face comes off and then behind that is the real cd player and you just put its face on and thats that.
Here is a vid of my awesome clever hide it alpine to help keep my ride low key.
<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i255.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid255.photobucket.com/albums/hh126/nsomniaredline/SUNP0056.flv">
Here is a vid of my awesome clever hide it alpine to help keep my ride low key.
<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i255.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid255.photobucket.com/albums/hh126/nsomniaredline/SUNP0056.flv">
06-11-08, 04:57 AM
#87
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I made a fuel cut switch and hid it somewhere in the car... Then I made a "push button start" and hid the button... However, in order for the push button to work, you still need the key to give power to the starter and the ignition... Plus my door handles are retarded, so you have to "know" how to open the doors lol... Also, I got a NRG quick release hub, meaning that at night, I can take the steering wheel into the house with me...
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