Hello everyone, and thanks in advance for any and all help. A little backgouround. I am a newbie to the rotary game. I came over from the dark side (running pistons and lots of laughing gass.)

I picked up an 88 Vert, N/A, manual. After a new fuel pump, spark plugs, and some various work, I got it to run. At that time, I realized that I have a water seal leaking, as it is now only running on one rotor. I drove it before, when it was firing on both rotors.

OK, so I decide to pull the motor out. At first I am thinking I will re-install the FI. After about 1.5 hours of messing with that crappy vaccum system, and all of the hoses, I decided to get rid of it all, and throw on a Holley carb. I have read all of the debates on the carbs, so please, I don't need any help with that.

What I need help with is this. Once I get my eingine built (bridgeported) and back in the car, I need to figure out how to get the ignition to fire. I have all of the 2nd gen ignition parts. I have read alot about the Direct Fire Mod, and am curious if I can use what I have to complete this. I would consider the MSD's, but that is an expensive option for me.

I also need help with the fuel system, and how to work the return line so I can use a regulator (4-7 lbs) and have the return line functioning properly. I would very much like to run the pump that is in the tank, mostly because I just spent $130 on that set-up.

Sorry for the long winded post, and I hope I can get some help.

Jesse

 

If you're going to step back from technology, might as well go all the way.
Grab a distributor from a 12A and install that + the pair 'o coils and go have fun replacing points every few months.


-Ted

 

Thanks. Is that really an issue here? I have friends that run carb'd 7's, and they have not mentioned having to replace points. There were running the MSD's though.

 

Bridgeport + carb = world of pain.

Seriously, bridgeports bring out the worst in carbs because the flow differs so dramatically between the primary and secondary ports. In generaly bridgeports are twitchey to tune so if you think messing with the vacuum system of the FC was annoying you ain't seen nothin' yet.

EFI + Bridgeport = Smooth Sailing

If cost is an issue, look at the Megasquirt.

If you are hell bent on doing this, don't use the early 12A system. No point using a points dizzy when Mazda dumped them in 81/82. The later distributers are electronic with reluctor triggers and ignitors like "modern" distributer systems.

Fuel return is easy...There are adjustable regulators desinged for EFI to carb conversions that will do the job.

 

Aaron,
Thanks for your help. I rode in 2 different BP 13b's that my mechanic built, both with holleys. Both would idle at a stoplight or two, and had a very nice torque curve all the way up the power band.

I really want to drop the FI. I hate the look of a cluttered engine bay. I will post pics when I am done, and you will se one of the nicest engine bays around. I have already stripped all of the FI stuff out, and threw it in a box in the garage.

How can Iuse my current dist, coils, and ignitors to fire this engine????

 

You don't have a distributor, you have a crank angle sensor. You will need an 81-85 distributor from a first gen along with ignitors. The transistor trick box will allow you to use the second gen leading coil and ignitor and is hands down the best ignition setup if you are using a distributor. You will, however still need the first gen ignitor to make it all work. It is very easy to install. You will need either a stock first gen coil or an aftermarket coil like an MSD Blaster 2 for trailing. I have all of this stuff, PM me if you are interested in it or have any other questions.

 

The real question is how long did it take to get there? How easily does it start cold? What about when the temperature changes? Mileage? And of course the big one, how much more power would it have made with EFI? Of course if it works for you, then go for it.

Whenever I hear someone decide to ditch a superior system based on engine bay clutter, I stop listening.

You don't have a distributer. The only way to use the stock system as is would be to keep the stock ECU. Presumably you are more interested in downgrading so I don't think you want to do that. You need to grab the coil assembly and distributer from an earlier car (1st gen) and install it in place of the FC's CAS and coil packs. Wiring is easy if you follow the diagrams.

 

Thanks, PM sent for further info.

What about MSD's??

Will I have to replace the points in the dist frequently?

 

Aaron, you make a valid point... Don't give up on me yet.

I understand now that most of the clutter under the hood is actually emission related? I live in Florida, we have no cold weather or emission regulations.

Can I run stock FI on a Bridgeported 13b?

What can I do to clean up the engie bay, and keep the FI in the car? How much of the vacuum lines are really necessary?

As far as following a wiring diagram, I have no issues with that.

Thanks for the help

 

On an NA..I've heard of people having as few as 2 vac lines left. I personally have (4) or so..because I kept a few nice things for a DD.

 

How do I know what I can get rid of, and what is necesary?

 

Should be 4.

 

The trick to a bridgeport is you are dramatically changing the engine. You are now revving to higher RPMs, consuming more fuel, and so on. So its a dramatic change in the engine and the ECU becomes a restriction.

Cleaning up the engine bay can be done with a standalone and just make sure to touch up (clean) and clear up the wires with the EMS install.

 

Most of it is emissions stuff. You can greatly simplify the stock EFI system by removing the emissions stuff but that can cause drivability issues since the stock system was designed to work with the emissions equipment. A standalone would not run any of this emissions stuff which means a LOT less clutter.

Run it? Yes. Well? No. You really need something you can tune to run a bridgeport otherwise you get drivability issues, bucking, hard starts, etc.

Search for "emissions removal".

 

I'ts been done, there is a member here that is a carbed 13B with ITB's but I don't know if he ever browses this section. you can try to pm him: rrrmechanic

 

Thanks for everyone's help.