Pics of painted intake parts, etc. 3rd gen upper intake conversion
08-07-02, 12:35 AM
#26
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Originally posted by Scott 89t2
sure, as always. I scroll down to see all the pics you post up AFTER, I already clicked on every one above LOL
sure, as always. I scroll down to see all the pics you post up AFTER, I already clicked on every one above LOL
08-07-02, 12:37 AM
#27
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i went for the twinturboteddy bling bling on my engine...... that is on my FD. if i get really bored with my TII i'll swap it over to FD UIM etc but its too much work right now. if you guys want polishing done ask TTT he is amazing. works speaks for itself!
08-07-02, 12:49 AM
#28
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Originally posted by BLUE TII
Here is a close up of that 89+ LIM. As you can see I cut off the EGR passage, ACV and had the EGR port, the small ACV passages and the EGR's primary port intrusion welded up. I thought it looked cleaner than block off plates and wouldn't be obvious to the un-rotary trained eye emissions stuff was taken off. :-P
Here is a close up of that 89+ LIM. As you can see I cut off the EGR passage, ACV and had the EGR port, the small ACV passages and the EGR's primary port intrusion welded up. I thought it looked cleaner than block off plates and wouldn't be obvious to the un-rotary trained eye emissions stuff was taken off. :-P
08-07-02, 01:18 AM
#29
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That is absolutely beautiful!!! I absolutely love the attention to detail, patience, and amazing display of being "****" when it comes to perfection. I have just one question, and I have wondered this for a while- How does the horizontal IC get fed air with out a duct that neglects the rad? I know the hor. IC is what necessitates the very inverted scooped hoods on many of the JDM racecars, but have always wonderd how you can feed air to both a horizontall charge cooler and a vertical radiator at the same time.???? The theory of less cahrge piping makes perfect sense but howdoes it get air? I plan on doing a new FMIC soon, and would love to take advantage of that design. The suspense of your anticipated reply is already killing me!!!!!!
08-07-02, 02:39 AM
#30
Quote: hey is that the LIM i sold you??!!>.wow looks very clean! ANd that NPR IC looks good with those inlet/outlers..
Yep, thanks! It worked out great, fcturbo2.
Vosko, that is some shiny *** stuff. My TII is my daily driver/beater so I have tried to keep it low maintanance. Plus, lots of polished aluminum looks very American Hotrod to me; like polished billet wheels. Still, looks damn nice! My finish of choice would have been bronze anodizing like my TE-37s :-).
Thanks for the nice works Boost; the devil is in the details- for sure, I got a little devil in me :-).
Quote:How does the horizontal IC get fed air with out a duct that neglects the rad? I know the hor. IC is what necessitates the very inverted scooped hoods on many of the JDM racecars, but have always wonderd how you can feed air to both a horizontall charge cooler and a vertical radiator at the same time.????
I am placing my radiator behind and below the horizontal IC and there is a CF inverted hood scoop for the IC w/ lip at the front to maximize the low pressure area already present on the front of the hood. The CF vent is going on my alum NA hood. A CF box section is sealing the triangular gap left between IC, radiator and stock radiator support frame and I will probably add a short angled sheet of CF below the back part of the IC/in front of the radiator to further split the airstream and shield it from radiator heat. Another bonus of moving the radiator back is that I will have a CF cold airbox fed by air from the front grille. The radiator is completely vertical and at speed is still fed by ram air entering the front grille, but some of that is going to go right out the low pressure area of the IC vent. It will be up to the Black magic fan to pull enough air through the oversize 26"x19"x3" radiator to make up for any loss of ram air pressure. The twin stock FC oil coolers are in front of the IC vent, so recieving full airflow regardless of if it exits the IC vent or radiator and should help keep things cool as well. At low speeds and at a stop, there will be much air being drawn through the IC vent by the "puller" radiator fan to prevent IC heat soak and more area open area in front of the radiator to draw air in to aid radiator cooling. If you see flaws, don't hesitate to point them out. I will take pics when it is done and of course let everyone know how it works out.
Ian
Yep, thanks! It worked out great, fcturbo2.
Vosko, that is some shiny *** stuff. My TII is my daily driver/beater so I have tried to keep it low maintanance. Plus, lots of polished aluminum looks very American Hotrod to me; like polished billet wheels. Still, looks damn nice! My finish of choice would have been bronze anodizing like my TE-37s :-).
Thanks for the nice works Boost; the devil is in the details- for sure, I got a little devil in me :-).
Quote:How does the horizontal IC get fed air with out a duct that neglects the rad? I know the hor. IC is what necessitates the very inverted scooped hoods on many of the JDM racecars, but have always wonderd how you can feed air to both a horizontall charge cooler and a vertical radiator at the same time.????
I am placing my radiator behind and below the horizontal IC and there is a CF inverted hood scoop for the IC w/ lip at the front to maximize the low pressure area already present on the front of the hood. The CF vent is going on my alum NA hood. A CF box section is sealing the triangular gap left between IC, radiator and stock radiator support frame and I will probably add a short angled sheet of CF below the back part of the IC/in front of the radiator to further split the airstream and shield it from radiator heat. Another bonus of moving the radiator back is that I will have a CF cold airbox fed by air from the front grille. The radiator is completely vertical and at speed is still fed by ram air entering the front grille, but some of that is going to go right out the low pressure area of the IC vent. It will be up to the Black magic fan to pull enough air through the oversize 26"x19"x3" radiator to make up for any loss of ram air pressure. The twin stock FC oil coolers are in front of the IC vent, so recieving full airflow regardless of if it exits the IC vent or radiator and should help keep things cool as well. At low speeds and at a stop, there will be much air being drawn through the IC vent by the "puller" radiator fan to prevent IC heat soak and more area open area in front of the radiator to draw air in to aid radiator cooling. If you see flaws, don't hesitate to point them out. I will take pics when it is done and of course let everyone know how it works out.
Ian
08-09-02, 05:52 PM
#32
Slow Cage
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------------------------------------------------------------
QUOTE: Plus, lots of polished aluminum looks
very American Hotrod to me; like polished billet
wheels.
------------------------------------------------------------
Oh yeah! Hey, do the rest of these folks know that your show car is a Gremlin X with polished Americans, a hi-po, super-flo, extra-capacity JC Whitney oil filter, mounted to the slant six that you pulled out of that '72 Dodge Dart?
Well, at least when you do the stop-light shuffle, if you lose you can always say, "so, you beat a Gremlin X."
Now how 'bout that Pacer that you have tucked away in the corner of your shop?
But I digress.
QUOTE: Plus, lots of polished aluminum looks
very American Hotrod to me; like polished billet
wheels.
------------------------------------------------------------
Oh yeah! Hey, do the rest of these folks know that your show car is a Gremlin X with polished Americans, a hi-po, super-flo, extra-capacity JC Whitney oil filter, mounted to the slant six that you pulled out of that '72 Dodge Dart?
Well, at least when you do the stop-light shuffle, if you lose you can always say, "so, you beat a Gremlin X."
Now how 'bout that Pacer that you have tucked away in the corner of your shop?
But I digress.
02-21-03, 12:44 PM
#33
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I am very impressed with your quality of work Blue TII. I was going to ask:
Did you had any problems clearing the fuel rail with that FD manifold?
Did you have to modify the throttle cable to work with the FD TB?
Also, how much more airflow does your setup flow over a stock S5 motor and manifold. It certainly seems that there would be a large % flow increase with the FD intake and TB. Has anyone else done this or dynoed any results???
Once again, thank you for the great writeup and pictures...
Graham
Did you had any problems clearing the fuel rail with that FD manifold?
Did you have to modify the throttle cable to work with the FD TB?
Also, how much more airflow does your setup flow over a stock S5 motor and manifold. It certainly seems that there would be a large % flow increase with the FD intake and TB. Has anyone else done this or dynoed any results???
Once again, thank you for the great writeup and pictures...
Graham
02-21-03, 05:56 PM
#37
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Heh. Like 2 weeks ago I started painting my engine manifolds etc with the exact same paint. However my rotor housings are flat black, and thats what Im doing my entire engine. Ive already done my turbo (cold side + wastegate stuff and misc hard lines, 1500F paint baked on). It should hold up. The cold side of the turbo shouldnt get over 350F at any point.
05-22-03, 03:37 PM
#39
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Originally posted by xfeastonarsex
Do You need to bake the paint on, or will running the engine with it on do a similar effect?
Do You need to bake the paint on, or will running the engine with it on do a similar effect?
05-22-03, 04:06 PM
#41
Originally posted by DomFD3S
If things in life were always this simple.
If things in life were always this simple.
it be the same thing. I dont have access to a baker and would like my intake to look similar to that one, already started to clean it up. If it just dries will it flake off or will it still be durable?
05-22-03, 04:22 PM
#43
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holy thread archeology!
05-22-03, 04:31 PM
#45
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In terms of durability? I don't know. It may flake. It may not.
But, the baking/curing process is what allows the "paint" to do its job. Essentially, it "activates" the paint.
http://www.speco.com.au/vht_flameproof.html
"VHT Flameproof Coating only attains its unique properties after correct curing (refer to the instructions on the can)."
As indicated by the link provided, IF you don't cure it/follow procedures,...it probably will not withstand the claimed "1500ºF".
But, the baking/curing process is what allows the "paint" to do its job. Essentially, it "activates" the paint.
http://www.speco.com.au/vht_flameproof.html
"VHT Flameproof Coating only attains its unique properties after correct curing (refer to the instructions on the can)."
As indicated by the link provided, IF you don't cure it/follow procedures,...it probably will not withstand the claimed "1500ºF".
05-23-03, 01:07 AM
#48
I'm still on here, I'm just usually busy playing w/ my car.
It seems all that work I did and parts I used to increase VE of engine worked even better than I had imagined...
My turbo would boost creep from 6.5psi WG setting to over 20psi by 4,000rpm
This turbo is BNR stage IV w/ the stock '89+ turbo exhaust housing bored out for a T4 "O" trim turbine wheel clipped 15 degrees, ported WGs. So it is not the most restrictive exhaust side...
I am just finishing up the crazy WG/housing mods that I think will bring that boost creep well under control. I will document these mods for you as always- it is interesting stuff!
BTW, all the mods done to the intake system would probably have made the car fairly undriveable w/ out the benifits of all the Haltech E6Ks adjustability. I wouldn't try this on a daily driver w/ stock, stock + piggy back, or Microtech, etc.
A couple of examples-
The polished manifolds allow fuel to condense on them like CRAZY when they are cold even though they are above the injectors since the overlap of the extended port pulses the mixture back up the runners. W/ E6K I was able to adjust for this and make it run great from a cold start by
1. upping the cold start injector "prime" opening
2. upping the throttle pump coolant correction factor
3. upping/re-shaping the coolant factor
4. changing the fuel VS air temp map
Also having all 3 throttle plates open at the same time w/ out the 2ndary plates in the UIM blocking flow coupled w/ the responsive turbo/IC/intake set-up and stiff suspension I had to increase the throttle pump dead band as the throttle is so sensitive going around corners w/ slight bumps the bouncing of my foot would change the throttle position a few degrees and that was enough HP to upset the car balance. It sounded like a rally car going around a corner- Brahh, bahh, brahh, braaap, bahh, bahh, brahh, braap so on...
All in all, w/ some tinkering by a complete stand alone novice (me) I was able to get it all running smoother than stock driveability. Well, stock 16yr old TII driveability- never drove a brand new one...
Starts right away, runs smoother, NEVER floods and has twice the HP.
All the HP mods are nice, BUT if I had to choose between them and the suspension mods-
I would choose the suspension mods hands down!
And they are cheaper/easier It handles soo much better. If you manhandle it like I was used to stock, it handles substancially better- but if you are smooth w/ your inputs it opens up a whole other world of handling.
It seems all that work I did and parts I used to increase VE of engine worked even better than I had imagined...
My turbo would boost creep from 6.5psi WG setting to over 20psi by 4,000rpm
This turbo is BNR stage IV w/ the stock '89+ turbo exhaust housing bored out for a T4 "O" trim turbine wheel clipped 15 degrees, ported WGs. So it is not the most restrictive exhaust side...
I am just finishing up the crazy WG/housing mods that I think will bring that boost creep well under control. I will document these mods for you as always- it is interesting stuff!
BTW, all the mods done to the intake system would probably have made the car fairly undriveable w/ out the benifits of all the Haltech E6Ks adjustability. I wouldn't try this on a daily driver w/ stock, stock + piggy back, or Microtech, etc.
A couple of examples-
The polished manifolds allow fuel to condense on them like CRAZY when they are cold even though they are above the injectors since the overlap of the extended port pulses the mixture back up the runners. W/ E6K I was able to adjust for this and make it run great from a cold start by
1. upping the cold start injector "prime" opening
2. upping the throttle pump coolant correction factor
3. upping/re-shaping the coolant factor
4. changing the fuel VS air temp map
Also having all 3 throttle plates open at the same time w/ out the 2ndary plates in the UIM blocking flow coupled w/ the responsive turbo/IC/intake set-up and stiff suspension I had to increase the throttle pump dead band as the throttle is so sensitive going around corners w/ slight bumps the bouncing of my foot would change the throttle position a few degrees and that was enough HP to upset the car balance. It sounded like a rally car going around a corner- Brahh, bahh, brahh, braaap, bahh, bahh, brahh, braap so on...
All in all, w/ some tinkering by a complete stand alone novice (me) I was able to get it all running smoother than stock driveability. Well, stock 16yr old TII driveability- never drove a brand new one...
Starts right away, runs smoother, NEVER floods and has twice the HP.
All the HP mods are nice, BUT if I had to choose between them and the suspension mods-
I would choose the suspension mods hands down!
And they are cheaper/easier
It handles soo much better. If you manhandle it like I was used to stock, it handles substancially better- but if you are smooth w/ your inputs it opens up a whole other world of handling.
