Pics of my $800.00 88 TII
01-14-05, 08:41 PM
#4
200Mph...... Sittin'Still
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Conover, NC
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes it runs
The car has 149K on it and it does run, drove it on and off the trailer! It does need some work and poss. rebuild or maybe turbo work, but what a deal right!?
Trending Topics
01-14-05, 09:04 PM
#8
Originally Posted by TruDynoSports
The car has 149K on it and it does run, drove it on and off the trailer! It does need some work and poss. rebuild or maybe turbo work, but what a deal right!?
01-14-05, 09:17 PM
#9
200Mph...... Sittin'Still
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Conover, NC
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just opened my own performance shop, Tru Dyno Sports LLC. trudynosports.com The web page is not done yet so don't panic. We have a Mustang 1100 Chassis Dyno on the way. I thought this would make a great project car and since I got so cheap, what the H!!!
Expected to do complete overhaul with 3mm Apex seals and all, when you can get parts for cost = lot's cheaper. Anyone interseted in Dyno tuning in the Western NC area, keep checking the web address above for updates! Should be a full blown site by 1st. week in Feb. Thanks for all the replies!
Expected to do complete overhaul with 3mm Apex seals and all, when you can get parts for cost = lot's cheaper. Anyone interseted in Dyno tuning in the Western NC area, keep checking the web address above for updates! Should be a full blown site by 1st. week in Feb. Thanks for all the replies!
01-14-05, 09:33 PM
#12
Respecognize!
ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! do not use 3mm seals for the love of god!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad have em and i hate em......you kill the rotors, you cant high rev, inferior design etc etc etc...from experience. bad. keep it clean though man...
01-14-05, 09:36 PM
#13
200Mph...... Sittin'Still
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Conover, NC
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks,
I guess I didn't mention that we at Tru Dyno Sports have many years of experience, just new at rotaries! I'm a very open mined person and always willing to learn from others mistakes without having to experience them for myself!!!!!!!!!!!
I guess I didn't mention that we at Tru Dyno Sports have many years of experience, just new at rotaries! I'm a very open mined person and always willing to learn from others mistakes without having to experience them for myself!!!!!!!!!!!
01-14-05, 11:56 PM
#14
Is that thing Turbo?
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
damn you beat my deal i'd say, i got my 86 base for 900 in perfect condition with only 90k when i got it and perfect compression, not bad tho it's nice having the lightest fc
01-15-05, 12:01 AM
#15
Mechanical Engineering
Wait, how close are you to the Triangle area? Im in garner and i want my car dynoed and tuned once i get the electronics done. how far are you away from Garner?
01-15-05, 12:46 AM
#16
King of the Loop
Originally Posted by totallimmortal
damn you beat my deal i'd say, i got my 86 base for 900 in perfect condition with only 90k when i got it and perfect compression, not bad tho it's nice having the lightest fc
01-15-05, 01:07 AM
#17
BRAP-BRAP-BRAP
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Welcome to the ranks of rotary shops in NC. If you ever need help, I have a/b 5yrs experience in all minor/major repairs. Me, or Jerry @ Clean and Fast, or Glenn at Enhanced Performance.
01-15-05, 01:13 AM
#18
ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! do not use 3mm seals for the love of god!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad have em and i hate em......you kill the rotors, you cant high rev, inferior design etc etc etc...from experience. bad. keep it clean though man...
Do you have any idea how many 3mm engines are on the road today doing just fine...revving to 9krpm and lasting longer than 2mm seals? What about EVERY '85 and previous rotary engine ever made by mazda that came STOCK with 3mm seals. Guess they screwed up there, huh.
It's a funny thing to me that the average 1gen engine has 200k or over on it before dropping a seal, while the average 86+ rotary with 2mm seals has 125k-150k. Some of it might be attributable to the higher power of the 2gen engines, a large degree of it is because 3mm seals are just plain more durable than 2mm's.
Learn what the hell you're talking about before you open your pie hole and put ideas into other people's heads.
01-15-05, 02:00 AM
#21
Don't get me wrong, I'm no big proponent of 3mm seals, 2mm's do just fine most of the time. I personally think that all nonturbo's should stay 2mm, and all turbo rotaries should be 3mm. But that's just me.
But, all these people spreading bullshit that 3mm seals are inferior, or that they cause problems, just don't seem to know what theyre talking about. I'd like someone to sit here and explain to me what problem they have personally encountered as a result of using 3mm seals in an engine. Not what joe blow said about it, or what your mother's cat's boyfriend had happen to him.
There are myths floating around that you make less compression with 3mm seals, that they don't seal as well. I got news for ya...with everything else being equal, I've built 2mm (2pc seal) engines and 3mm (2pc seal) engines and gotten equivalent compression out of both. I don't see that as a valid argument.
There are myths floating around that 3mm seals are more likely to float at high rpm's and chatter. For something like a bridge or p-port this might very well be a concern..but for 99.5% of us on this forum using our engines for street, we're turning <9krpm regularly, and 3mm seals perform just fine there. IF you're highly concerned about this, use a stiffer spring or a double spring with your 3mm seal. Regardless, I've used 3mm seals and torn down the engine later for port work or to change rotors for compression ratio change and found no unusual wear that 2mm seals don't produce.
To say that 3mm seals tear up your rotors is...ludicrous. Hell, it's well known that stock 3pc 2mm seals actually wear the rotor tips out, rocking back and forth and widening the groove at the top. It happens to 3mm seal engines too, but it takes a lot longer. 2pc seals seem to help this a lot.
Someone show me a *dis*advantage of 3mm seals in a street engine? Sure, they can be broken just like 2mil's, and are not a cure all...but to say that they are a bad mod is bullshit. They do cost more than a 2mm rebuild unless your rotors were already damaged in which case they can actually save you money by converting to 3mm and saving those damaged parts, versus buying replacement 2mm parts.
But, all these people spreading bullshit that 3mm seals are inferior, or that they cause problems, just don't seem to know what theyre talking about. I'd like someone to sit here and explain to me what problem they have personally encountered as a result of using 3mm seals in an engine. Not what joe blow said about it, or what your mother's cat's boyfriend had happen to him.
There are myths floating around that you make less compression with 3mm seals, that they don't seal as well. I got news for ya...with everything else being equal, I've built 2mm (2pc seal) engines and 3mm (2pc seal) engines and gotten equivalent compression out of both. I don't see that as a valid argument.
There are myths floating around that 3mm seals are more likely to float at high rpm's and chatter. For something like a bridge or p-port this might very well be a concern..but for 99.5% of us on this forum using our engines for street, we're turning <9krpm regularly, and 3mm seals perform just fine there. IF you're highly concerned about this, use a stiffer spring or a double spring with your 3mm seal. Regardless, I've used 3mm seals and torn down the engine later for port work or to change rotors for compression ratio change and found no unusual wear that 2mm seals don't produce.
To say that 3mm seals tear up your rotors is...ludicrous. Hell, it's well known that stock 3pc 2mm seals actually wear the rotor tips out, rocking back and forth and widening the groove at the top. It happens to 3mm seal engines too, but it takes a lot longer. 2pc seals seem to help this a lot.
Someone show me a *dis*advantage of 3mm seals in a street engine? Sure, they can be broken just like 2mil's, and are not a cure all...but to say that they are a bad mod is bullshit. They do cost more than a 2mm rebuild unless your rotors were already damaged in which case they can actually save you money by converting to 3mm and saving those damaged parts, versus buying replacement 2mm parts.
01-15-05, 02:11 AM
#22
90 Turbo
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Cookeville TN
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well if done right i.e. milled correctly in the center and not off to one side or the other as to not throw the rotor out of balance causing problems at high rpm .I would just want to get different rotors but I would never want do that to a good rotor just to go to 3mm seals .
01-15-05, 02:22 AM
#24
i am legendary
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 8,478
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by The Spyder
Exactly the miliage the oil and water seals went on my friends 88 TII........
Example, my friend has over 180k on his TII with still original motor and it runs.
01-15-05, 07:56 AM
#25
I'm awesome!
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Greenville, SC & Atlanta, GA & Clovis, NM
Posts: 1,311
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Don't get me wrong, I'm no big proponent of 3mm seals, 2mm's do just fine most of the time. I personally think that all nonturbo's should stay 2mm, and all turbo rotaries should be 3mm. But that's just me.
But, all these people spreading bullshit that 3mm seals are inferior, or that they cause problems, just don't seem to know what theyre talking about. I'd like someone to sit here and explain to me what problem they have personally encountered as a result of using 3mm seals in an engine. Not what joe blow said about it, or what your mother's cat's boyfriend had happen to him.
There are myths floating around that you make less compression with 3mm seals, that they don't seal as well. I got news for ya...with everything else being equal, I've built 2mm (2pc seal) engines and 3mm (2pc seal) engines and gotten equivalent compression out of both. I don't see that as a valid argument.
There are myths floating around that 3mm seals are more likely to float at high rpm's and chatter. For something like a bridge or p-port this might very well be a concern..but for 99.5% of us on this forum using our engines for street, we're turning <9krpm regularly, and 3mm seals perform just fine there. IF you're highly concerned about this, use a stiffer spring or a double spring with your 3mm seal. Regardless, I've used 3mm seals and torn down the engine later for port work or to change rotors for compression ratio change and found no unusual wear that 2mm seals don't produce.
To say that 3mm seals tear up your rotors is...ludicrous. Hell, it's well known that stock 3pc 2mm seals actually wear the rotor tips out, rocking back and forth and widening the groove at the top. It happens to 3mm seal engines too, but it takes a lot longer. 2pc seals seem to help this a lot.
Someone show me a *dis*advantage of 3mm seals in a street engine? Sure, they can be broken just like 2mil's, and are not a cure all...but to say that they are a bad mod is bullshit. They do cost more than a 2mm rebuild unless your rotors were already damaged in which case they can actually save you money by converting to 3mm and saving those damaged parts, versus buying replacement 2mm parts.
But, all these people spreading bullshit that 3mm seals are inferior, or that they cause problems, just don't seem to know what theyre talking about. I'd like someone to sit here and explain to me what problem they have personally encountered as a result of using 3mm seals in an engine. Not what joe blow said about it, or what your mother's cat's boyfriend had happen to him.
There are myths floating around that you make less compression with 3mm seals, that they don't seal as well. I got news for ya...with everything else being equal, I've built 2mm (2pc seal) engines and 3mm (2pc seal) engines and gotten equivalent compression out of both. I don't see that as a valid argument.
There are myths floating around that 3mm seals are more likely to float at high rpm's and chatter. For something like a bridge or p-port this might very well be a concern..but for 99.5% of us on this forum using our engines for street, we're turning <9krpm regularly, and 3mm seals perform just fine there. IF you're highly concerned about this, use a stiffer spring or a double spring with your 3mm seal. Regardless, I've used 3mm seals and torn down the engine later for port work or to change rotors for compression ratio change and found no unusual wear that 2mm seals don't produce.
To say that 3mm seals tear up your rotors is...ludicrous. Hell, it's well known that stock 3pc 2mm seals actually wear the rotor tips out, rocking back and forth and widening the groove at the top. It happens to 3mm seal engines too, but it takes a lot longer. 2pc seals seem to help this a lot.
Someone show me a *dis*advantage of 3mm seals in a street engine? Sure, they can be broken just like 2mil's, and are not a cure all...but to say that they are a bad mod is bullshit. They do cost more than a 2mm rebuild unless your rotors were already damaged in which case they can actually save you money by converting to 3mm and saving those damaged parts, versus buying replacement 2mm parts.