http://www.dgtalpimp.com/motegibattle.wmv

Watch this then tell me the NSX is just "ok"

ANd hondas don't suck. You think the S2000 isn't a sports car??? Yea civics aren, but trust me the S2000 and NSX are nothing to sneer at.

 

WRONG
theyre just fine for a street car
they blow for a car that sees any track duty at all.

only good crossdrilling is cast in
and from what ive seen slotting is just fine, gives you sharper initial bite

 

got i wish i could count how many people would eat they're words if they came up to a modded honda in a road race... 1000lb+ lighter it a bit a an advantage when your throwing your car around turns at 100mph

anyway back on topic
theirs so many threds on this, the rule of thumb is no car should be equiped with X-Drilled and slotted unless it's for show only. I personally will probally be using slotted rotors becasue my car will be seeing the road course (2 strights with 120 to 40 stops per lap ) alot and i want to keep glazing at a minimum. I'm not going to buy them tho untill i can varify that i am getting glazing when driving

 

read under my name damn haters

 

**** on what theses people think, if u like them thats all that counts, go for it man. i think they look good.

 

look good... but i quote "...untill your trying to stop for that kid running across the street and your rotor breaks in half." <<< seen it happen, just minus the kid part. my friend was stopping for a stop sign and all of a sudden we here a boom, something hit the ground and the brake pedal went to the floor

 

uh, WRONG.
yes, they will WORK for a street car just fine, however, they are not the BEST choice, as I said in my post.
cross drillling reduces surface area, therefore less clamping force. plus, they won't get warm as fast, so if you have somewhat of a good pad, it will take longer for them to work to their best. even hawk HPS which seem to be very popular choices(including for my own car) take a little bit of warming before they work to their fullest.

as for slotted, they work great, but they wear down pads a bit faster(from my experience anyway).

SO.... mr. "WRONG", I believe I would be correct in saying "crossdrilled/slotted rotors are not the best(note the key word 'best') for a street car".

 

Benefits of PRCS Power-Rotor (cross-drilled / slotted rotors) over stock rotors:

*

PRCS Power-Rotors cross-drilled rotors run approximately 200 to 250 degrees cooler than stock rotors
*

Less rotor warping since they run at a lower temperature
*

Lighter weight
*

Less brake fading
*

Improves wet-weather braking with shorter distance
*

Mill balanced to prevent vibration
*

Ground finish that eliminates run out and taper
*

Double disc ground to ensure parallelism
*

Slotted Rotors run approximately 100 degrees cooler

Disadvantages of using cross-drilled / slotted rotors over stock rotors:

*

Slotted rotors tend to wear brake pads more quickly because the slots act like razor blades each time they go around, but this will increase brake pad "bite" which equals better braking.
*

Cross-drilled rotors lose structural integrity from the holes and tended to crack easier than stock rotors under racing conditions.

Why use PRCS Power-Rotors cross-drilled / slotted rotors over other brand?

*

The holes are frequently drilled too large on other manufacture's rotors, penetrated the cooling vanes, and were not radiuses or chamfered.
*

Power-Rotors zinc plate our rotors to prevent rust and corrosion

Policy and Terms

 

^^^ from an ebay seller.

I have made my choice, sticking with solid rotors.

 

Actually, slotted rotors have no downsides at all really. We run them on track-only cars and they never have warped or cracked on us. Pads don't last more than a season usually (depending on how many races per season. We usually do ~8/year/car), which is to be expected. We are running vented rotors that have "custom" slots in them. Pretty much, it's a 2 peice rotor that we bolted in the mill, then made two slots all the way across on each side of the center, each side of the rotor. Cheapest way to do it, and it works great. Just don't cut too deep on the rotor face. Also, brake fade and heat is no longer an issue with these cars we have done this on. It clears out dust and gasses better than cross drilling, and it dosen't weaken the rotor like cross drilling does.


EDIT: Also noticed that nobody has posted any pics of FC's with cross drilled/slotted rotors per the thread title

 

um... yes they did post pics. like i said, if lemans cars have solid rotors, then why would we change? the main thing is they havemassive break ducts and **** to flow a massive ammount of air into the ducts.

the only thing you should get is new pads, and some braided break lines with the sleave over the braids, cus dirt anbd gunk get int between the braid and eat away at the lines. people who buy braided lines that arent coated with something are tools. im sorry buts its true.

 

^ Okay, apples and oranges my friend. We slotted rotors on the cars we run because they don't allow ducting to the brakes like LeMans series cars can in our series. Also, who is going to go through the money and trouble to duct air to the brakes on our cars like the ALS cars do. Also, the ALS cars don't want the brakes to wear quickly because it's an endurance race, like the nextel cup series. Therefore they sacrifice braking distance for endurance, whereas on our cars we don't need to.

 

our 97 911 has cross drilled rotors and it's stock.

 

my car can stop just as fast as your car. doesnt do a bit of dirrerence. if you get cross drilled, you have to get bigger breaks. proches have bigger breaks cus their cross drilled. if they werent, they wouldnt be any bigger than ours i bet.